You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Not so great news so far. Stopped by Tesla service again today. Explained everything so far. They're not sure what the problem is. Seems it ought to work, but it doesn't. I'm on the old ECU for now and it works fine. Scheduled a proper service visit for late January, the earliest slot for a proper visit.
I feel I'm at the intersection of either the ECU is faulty, it needs special configuration, maybe a wiring adapter, or it just won't work at all at the moment. Wish I could find some detailed info about the ECU and its possible wiring revisions -- maybe the door mechanism changed, and there may be an additional thermistor added, or something (just speculating). Wiring adapter could fix the thermistor issue, but if the door sensor is totally different, that could require a much more significant set of parts replacements. Hopeful for the first case (bad ECU). Worst case, I guess, I'll just have to wait to see when the CCS adapter is formally launched.
Anyone with the ability to dig up any more info about the charge port ECUs or the differences in revisions would be quite helpful in the time between now and late Jan.
While we're here, here's a photo of the Gen4 ECU I realized I hadn't posted yet. Note the shiny little transformer in the lower-left of the board. That corner set of components including the Qualcomm IC are the parts needed to squiggle the high-frequency PLC (powerline communication, similar to/same as that found in "powerline Ethernet" adapters) over the control pilot line of the J1772 plug. Not present on the earlier version, thus the CCS "enabled/not enabled" distinction.
View attachment 749392
Hmm. I always thought that swapping to the EU Gen3 ECU would be kind of an iffy proposition. I'm surprised it "took it" (didn't need config change?) but informative to know it messes up TPC Supercharging.
Here in the US, there's no Superchargers other than TPC and no public chargers other than Type-1 J1772 (or TPC, less commonly) for AC, with CCS and CHAdeMO on the DC side. Even that spread of standards is too complex for some people.
So for me, with my NA Gen4 swap and "Bundle of Wires" adapter, everything works great - TPC Supercharging, CCS, CHAdeMO (though I just sold my adapter recently), and AC charging.
Yes that’s basically what I said earlier. European model 3s and Ys only need ccs so it appears likely that the European ECU does not support the Tesla protocol for supercharging.I think I figure out why this situation happened to me. I replace my GEN3 with EU version CP ECU (1092755-82-B), it works with J1772 but not Tesla TPC SC.
==> Maybe it simply does not support the protocol to talk with Tesla TPC SC because there is no TPC SC in Europe, and that is why the rare alarm CP_a091 cannot be found by Google or other search engines. It only happened to an EU Tesla been moved to the US and modify its charge port to TPC, no one will do this unreasonable thing.
Or maybe there is some authentication information been stored in CP ECU so that Tesla can recognize and charge you SC bills? Need to configure/firmware update the CP ECU before usage?
******************
Your approach is to replace your GEN 3 CP ECU with GEN4 CP ECU 1537264-00-B (with your mysterious modification to deal with the sensor issues), which is the NA version, which meant it MUST support both TPC and of course CCS at the same time according to your description. So, if you don't configure/firmware update your new CP ECU and it simple is plug-n-play, your approach seems the most reasonable one.
The conclusion is, replacing the GEN3 with EU version CP ECU (1092755-82-B) is okay for all European people because they don't have TPC SC, but maybe not work for NA and Taiwanese owners. How expensive this tuition I had paid for this lesson! Got to sell my GEN3 to Europe on eBay again!!! Anyone interested in my EU ECU please contact with me!
Oh! Wow. Yeah, here! I have a brand new Gen4 fresh from Tesla, right here.you might have a picture that would be pure gold for me
Pretty cool you said? Yeah it is. Yesterday on a ABB HP CP500 CJ 350Kw : i was able to pull 221Kw Peak at 39% S.O.C.Actually, you're looking at kW when the real limiting factor is amps (not shown on stations). These rated kW figures are often at higher voltages (e.g. the 800v cars). Your Plaid is a higher voltage system than our 3's (400v - often 350-395v with nominal around 370v I think), but not sure what the Plaid actually classifies as (supposedly 450v nominal is cited in the manual, thus "500v" relative to 400v). So you'll get more juice than the 3's will, just due to the higher voltage/same amps.
Pretty cool that you get such high numbers none the less!
I can deny it at least, if that's any consolationCan you confirm my fear ?
There was a prototype in Ukraine with perfect latch lock, I have pictures, however work is stopped due to the war for now.I can deny it at least, if that's any consolation
Lots of words on the matter in my reply here: CCS Adapter for North America
It's still less than ideal, but there's virtually no chance of bad things happening even in the worst case. I still think EVHub should work on adding that automatic latch lock to make it on-par-with Tesla's adapter. Bit of an engineering challenge to make such a spring-pokey-stick work, but it should be doable!
Well, really, the wires are nowhere near them. Notice the D-shaped cutouts in each area. Folded together, it forms a "big D" ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) and that keeps them all away from the HV connections. They have nothing to touch there, except themselves - and they're perfectly insulated for that. No way for them to touch HV within that "D" shaped hole.protect the wires from the high voltage pins
Well, really, the wires are nowhere near them. Notice the D-shaped cutouts in each area. Folded together, it forms a "big D" ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) and that keeps them all away from the HV connections. They have nothing to touch there, except themselves - and they're perfectly insulated for that. No way for them to touch HV within that "D" shaped hole.
The most exposed area that needs protection from HV is, ironically, here, where there's little shrink tubing:
View attachment 782586
In my version, there's a little piece of cut PCB material that covers these wires, dividing (and fully protecting) them from the HV bars. If yours has that too, then that's all it really needed
Hmm, that wire positioning certainly doesn’t seem ideal. But I guess they’re constrained by dimensions
In your case I wonder if your car can just be modified to have the ccs2 port. Since they’re transitioning in Taiwan anyway, that might not be a bad option