DC-DC Step Down Power Supply Adjustable Push-button Module with LCD Display | eBay
I like these because you can Amps and Voltage
I like these because you can Amps and Voltage
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Yes that’s what I orderedDC-DC Step Down Power Supply Adjustable Push-button Module with LCD Display | eBay
I like these because you can Amps and Voltage
Thank you for the cautions! I do understand the risks! I want to make sure I’m going about in a way that has been successful for others.I will point out if your are not familiar with electronics this is not recommended, 60v will kill you, this is the reason many e-bikes are 48v. so playing with a 400v-200v,100v pack is potentially lethal. Before you start PULL THE DISCONNECT. Have the battery isolated. check with a multi-meter with insulation rated for 400V.
Check again and if any of the procedure seems complicated (as unfortunately you give that appearance that right now you are way out of your depth) I would defer to someone else. Most people conduct this type of experiment armed with plenty of knowledge and behind closed doors. Its not something recommended to anyone needing to ask as many questions as you have. Nearly everything stated so far could have been found with a cursory search.
This is not meant to dissuade you in any way, but even professionals have managed to burn down their workshops attempting this kind of thing, what ever you do next is going to not only be at your own risk no matter what advise you have been given. A lithium-ion fire will burn itself out, you can NOT stop it and it will ignite anything around it.
Just making sure you are thoroughly aware of what you are sticking your hand into. A fully charged pack has a lot more potential to do something bad than a dead one. A hot cell is a dangerous cell and you will be bypassing the cooling system to to whole pack. Make sure you fully understand that before progressing and don't try to put more than the bare minimum into any brick, if the voltage reads 2.0v, i would bring it up to 2.4 before going any further, not to 3.8v because a 3.8v cell will a) be far more dangerious, and b) be able to be controlled by the BMB and not need bypassing.
Can you help me with this? I sent the Gerber file to a company to build the boards . I do not know how to read the files since I’m not an electronic wizardThank you for the cautions! I do understand the risks! I want to make sure I’m going about in a way that has been successful for others.
you can get one from Henry Sharp- he has a roadster and manufactures them contact him @ hcsharp.comThank you for your replies
I have a Tesla charger from a newer vehicle which I believe will work on my roadster with the correct roadster adapter
I need a roadster adapter
Anyone out there have one they are willing to sell ?or if someone might tell me where I might get one
Thanks
I think he was referring to the PCB for the battery management boards. I don't make those.you can get one from Henry Sharp- he has a roadster and manufactures them contact him @ hcsharp.com
Please confirm the input on Nicks designed charging boards? Looks like the left input to be negative and the rest are all positive?I will point out if your are not familiar with electronics this is not recommended, 60v will kill you, this is the reason many e-bikes are 48v. so playing with a 400v-200v,100v pack is potentially lethal. Before you start PULL THE DISCONNECT. Have the battery isolated. check with a multi-meter with insulation rated for 400V.
Check again and if any of the procedure seems complicated (as unfortunately you give that appearance that right now you are way out of your depth) I would defer to someone else. Most people conduct this type of experiment armed with plenty of knowledge and behind closed doors. Its not something recommended to anyone needing to ask as many questions as you have. Nearly everything stated so far could have been found with a cursory search.
This is not meant to dissuade you in any way, but even professionals have managed to burn down their workshops attempting this kind of thing, what ever you do next is going to not only be at your own risk no matter what advise you have been given. A lithium-ion fire will burn itself out, you can NOT stop it and it will ignite anything around it.
Just making sure you are thoroughly aware of what you are sticking your hand into. A fully charged pack has a lot more potential to do something bad than a dead one. A hot cell is a dangerous cell and you will be bypassing the cooling system to to whole pack. Make sure you fully understand that before progressing and don't try to put more than the bare minimum into any brick, if the voltage reads 2.0v, i would bring it up to 2.4 before going any further, not to 3.8v because a 3.8v cell will a) be far more dangerious, and b) be able to be controlled by the BMB and not need bypassing.
You can look for a Roadster yellow spare connector. They are 120V and are usually less costly. Otherwise, the pin out for the charger is not something you want to fudge at the charge port. Open the PEM service window on the passenger side of the PEM and you will find the connections from the charge port to the PEM. Add ring terminals to your charger wires and you can tap directly into the PEM line inputs.
I wouldn't condone this, so tread carefully.
My thought being, I don’t have a CAN SR, but I have access to a model 3 charge port and j1772 adapter. If all I have to do is disconnect roadster plug wires from the PEM and reconnect model 3 wires, why would I want to use something bulky with multiple adapters?That's possible, but given the convenience of using the CAN SR adapter to connect the Model 3's charge cable to the Roadster charge port, why bother?
I have seen a Roadster with an experimental replacement of the charging with the Models S/X/3 socket. I think it may have been implemented with a 3-D printed part. I don't know how hard it might be to mount the OEM Model 3 socket in place of the Roadster socket. I believe the Roadster socket is held in place with adhesive rather than bolts, which would make the replacement more difficult. Some years ago @tomsax made a J1772 replacement for the Roadster socket, but that project was abandoned for various reasons. That used to be a sticky thread in this forum.
No, not CHAdeMO. That will not work with the AC-only charge plumbing of the Roadster.I have access to 3D scanners/printers, aluminum casting equipment, and various types of epoxy. I suppose it doesn’t have to be a model 3 socket, it could be any of the Tesla ones. Point being to get rid of the bulky roadster connector and open myself up to ease of use going forward, many HPWC /destination chargers and chademo chargers are around me.
No, not CHAdeMO. That will not work with the AC-only charge plumbing of the Roadster.
I really recommend leaving the port the way it is, and just get both of Henry's CAN adapters (JR and SR). They are robust, work very well, and the one you use most frequently can sit comfortably in the CAN holder (aka cup holder) next to the center console.
I didn't want to be the one to post this response because I have a bias in that I sell these adapters, which might reduce my credibility. With that in mind, here are my thoughts.My thought being, I don’t have a CAN SR, but I have access to a model 3 charge port and j1772 adapter. If all I have to do is disconnect roadster plug wires from the PEM and reconnect model 3 wires, why would I want to use something bulky with multiple adapters?
I didn't want to be the one to post this response because I have a bias in that I sell these adapters, which might reduce my credibility. With that in mind, here are my thoughts