Tesla SC installed it. Like I said in my other post. Please READ it correctly.
There is no doubt, the rack cracked the glass.
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Roof Rack - Is it Really a Risk?
- Thread starter dansev
- Start date
There is no doubt, the rack cracked the glass.
It's known as stress and flex from weight and load shift. Glass can't flex like steel and remain intact.
Here is the thread from which the photo of the cracked roof glass was included:
teslamotorsclub.com
Cracked roof, any chance it's covered under warranty?
I discovered my 23 MYLR roof is cracked. Three questions: Is there any safety risk if I continue driving this for a while (see below)? Any chance this is covered under Tesla's warranty or should I just move ahead with an insurance claim with AAA? Is it important/essential to get this repaired by...
teslamotorsclub.com
You are seeing forces that are real but imagining them appearing in the glass. The frame is made to be stiff enough under dynamic vehicle conditions that the roof remains in one piece, doors don't creak etc, roof rack or no.
A couple of hundred pounds on the roof isn't going to wreak merry hell on a frame that can drive over a bump at 100mph and launch a wheel without breaking a window.
It's the hardware contacting the glass. Either over torqued or faulty weld of the bracket.
I'm not imaging anything. The fact is, the glass has cracked from stress. That is all I need to know. YMMV!
You might be surprised how flexible glass can be when it is twisted.
I was opposite some big glass windows of the shop in ground floor of office block. A mild earthquake had the building doing the boogie woogie and the glass was all over the place. Stayed in one piece though.
A point force killed that roof glass.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
This is a "fact" which you have 100% manifested out of thin air based on a single photograph posted by an anonymous third party. You must have a different definition of fact than I do.
Richard__G
Member
Y'all might find this thread helpful: Roof rack & 4x8 plywood sheets
I got some 3rd party racks, from Tesbros if I recall correctly, as they were less expensive.
Installed them myself, careful not to over-torque, and then carved two 5" wide boards, and cushioned them with a yoga mat, to conform to curved racks so I could carry plywood etc. on a flat platform . I never overload them and only put the boards on when I need to get wood. It works perfectly. I too was worried about possible stresses, so I drive home slowly with wood on top. It makes my MYLR a real workhorse when I need it and I couldn't be happier There is a photo of it in the linked thread above.
I got some 3rd party racks, from Tesbros if I recall correctly, as they were less expensive.
Installed them myself, careful not to over-torque, and then carved two 5" wide boards, and cushioned them with a yoga mat, to conform to curved racks so I could carry plywood etc. on a flat platform . I never overload them and only put the boards on when I need to get wood. It works perfectly. I too was worried about possible stresses, so I drive home slowly with wood on top. It makes my MYLR a real workhorse when I need it and I couldn't be happier There is a photo of it in the linked thread above.
PianoAl
Active Member
Here's an interesting tidbit of info.
I put my ski carrier on as it's coming to season. Did a couple of shifts and yesterday I thought 'what the hey' and put the rear trunk separator panel in the ski rack ( to make a bigger trunk ).
What I found was the watts per mile at sub highway speeds dropped by 17% !!!!!. That's a fair chunk loss to the system from having a rack and toplight and ski rack up there in the first place. It was the end of the day so yet to confirm the headstart downhill leg of that trip didn't figure more than the rack 'mod'.
Curious if a few sheets of ply makes better or worse economy on your rack?
I put my ski carrier on as it's coming to season. Did a couple of shifts and yesterday I thought 'what the hey' and put the rear trunk separator panel in the ski rack ( to make a bigger trunk ).
What I found was the watts per mile at sub highway speeds dropped by 17% !!!!!. That's a fair chunk loss to the system from having a rack and toplight and ski rack up there in the first place. It was the end of the day so yet to confirm the headstart downhill leg of that trip didn't figure more than the rack 'mod'.
Curious if a few sheets of ply makes better or worse economy on your rack?
The roofrack alone added around 20% to my consumption at highway speeds. I had to start hypermiling after a fashion after it tried to get me to turn around and go back where I started. That was not even 50 miles into the trip!
I had done the exact same trip in a hustle with no rack and finished with plenty of spare charge. Figured same start out charge would get me back if driving less hustle. No way Hosè!!
It's a good thing 95% of my usual milage is sub 50mph. That's when the electrons really start getting burned up.
If having a temporary dividing shelf can cut the ski carrier from out of the equation I will be very happy. Put the actual shelf in the garage and the temp one can go in the trunk when it's ski carrying time. Rest of time it can be an extra suitcase carrier.
Chewy13
ts.la/nick670348
So from that other persons thread:
“p.s. I'm virtually certain the crack is unrelated to the roof rack. Tesla installed the rack and it's easy to see that there is at least 1/16" of clearance between the base of the rack and the glass. I know sometimes these can be installed poorly and impinge on the glass, but I don't believe that's what's going on here.”
If the rack is over loaded,( This is my opinion) it can flex the rail
and cause the glass to crack. It's obvious to me, based on that image
this is what has happened. It can not be a coincidence the glass broke
at the racks mounting point.
When I was fitting mine I used the little end of the hex tool as the handle. It creaked and groaned all the way to "hell's bells that better be enough". Swung on the rack and it was solid.
No cracked glass and a healthy gap under the cushion to the glass. I backed it back to the nearest locking point and it was still solid.
Things they don't tell you in the instructions.
The markers for the stickers are next to impossible to see without a torch. Much easier with a helper to hold the torch.
The weather strip retainer tool slides in and along from the nearest corner of the glass, piece of cake.
The required torque can be had from two fingers and a thumb on the short end of the tool.
Once it is on and the nuts locked, iT AIN'T GOING NOWHERE!
No cracked glass and a healthy gap under the cushion to the glass. I backed it back to the nearest locking point and it was still solid.
Things they don't tell you in the instructions.
The markers for the stickers are next to impossible to see without a torch. Much easier with a helper to hold the torch.
The weather strip retainer tool slides in and along from the nearest corner of the glass, piece of cake.
The required torque can be had from two fingers and a thumb on the short end of the tool.
Once it is on and the nuts locked, iT AIN'T GOING NOWHERE!
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