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Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
The case, a loaded 2015 P85D, which had encountered another substantial object head-on.
Whatever hit it, rode over the left frame-rail and shattered the (cast-aluminum) suspension tower. The left wheel was shifted back an inch and the left frame-rail was up and out by 2".
My goal in posting these is to encourage those who are already good engineers. Not just anyone can do this, but I'm here to tell you it can be done. I've solved some of the most difficult problems a wrecked Tesla has to offer.
Whatever hit it, rode over the left frame-rail and shattered the (cast-aluminum) suspension tower. The left wheel was shifted back an inch and the left frame-rail was up and out by 2".
My goal in posting these is to encourage those who are already good engineers. Not just anyone can do this, but I'm here to tell you it can be done. I've solved some of the most difficult problems a wrecked Tesla has to offer.
Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
Improvements I've made (myself):
- Bugatti-style wrap in Brushed Black (more detail here)
- 21" wheels replaced with 19", and wrapped in Black Chrome. Then whitewalled with SOLAS.
- Black reflective film applied down sides for safety
- SunTek PPF on all painted surfaces (Tip: Although Suntek is easier to apply, it should not be put in the same class as Scotchgard+ or Xpel. It is not self-healing)
- Exchanged plastic-looking Piano Black dash trim, with another owner, for Lacewood.
- Installed LIDAR laser jammers in both headlights (police here only use LIDAR), painted most headlight chrome black, and painted interior of projectors white for 'glowing eye' effect
- Effectively soundproofed from road noise. Others who have attempted this failed, because they did not do their homework on diagnosis, materials, nor methods.
- Upgraded headlights from 35 watt, to 50 watt with sharp cutoff
- Replaced sh1tty "Premium Sound System" speakers with natural-sounding Polks. The difference is staggering.
- Installed high-grade dashcams fore and aft. These are no 1080p blackviews... they're 1440p HDR, with superb nighttime video, 160° FoV, 3D noise reduction, and nearly transparent CPF. I've networked them into a micro-hub.
- Integrated ratcheting, self-retracting tie-down webbing into the frunk tub
- Added the most efficient and brightest LED flexible strips to all containment areas.
- Installed in frunk M3 military medic bag with CPR mask, RATS tourniquet, Z-Rex window breaker and seatbelt cutter (which every car should have in the cabin), mylar emergency blankets, 5ea disposable restraints, and 2ea reflective Star of Life stickers for the M3 bag.
- Installed in frunk plastic milk carton crate with handheld flares, SOG Entrenching Tool with built-in saw, S&W SWAT knife, Leatherman multi-tool, Schrade hatchet, towels, blankets, CREE flashlights, and so on.
- For rear applique chrome-embossed "TESLA" that's impossible to read, added drop-shadow to letters made of 1/16" black pin-striping.
- Replaced meaningless (to most) "Model S" on rear hatch, with "ELECTRIC".
- Cleaned and reated complete interior with Permanon Aircraft. Treated all leather with Lexol Deep Conditioner and all wood trim with pure walnut oil.
- Added small trash can to back of middle console, attached with 3M hermaphroditic plastic nub fastener.
- Bugatti-style wrap in Brushed Black (more detail here)
- 21" wheels replaced with 19", and wrapped in Black Chrome. Then whitewalled with SOLAS.
- Black reflective film applied down sides for safety
- SunTek PPF on all painted surfaces (Tip: Although Suntek is easier to apply, it should not be put in the same class as Scotchgard+ or Xpel. It is not self-healing)
- Exchanged plastic-looking Piano Black dash trim, with another owner, for Lacewood.
- Installed LIDAR laser jammers in both headlights (police here only use LIDAR), painted most headlight chrome black, and painted interior of projectors white for 'glowing eye' effect
- Effectively soundproofed from road noise. Others who have attempted this failed, because they did not do their homework on diagnosis, materials, nor methods.
- Upgraded headlights from 35 watt, to 50 watt with sharp cutoff
- Replaced sh1tty "Premium Sound System" speakers with natural-sounding Polks. The difference is staggering.
- Installed high-grade dashcams fore and aft. These are no 1080p blackviews... they're 1440p HDR, with superb nighttime video, 160° FoV, 3D noise reduction, and nearly transparent CPF. I've networked them into a micro-hub.
- Integrated ratcheting, self-retracting tie-down webbing into the frunk tub
- Added the most efficient and brightest LED flexible strips to all containment areas.
- Installed in frunk M3 military medic bag with CPR mask, RATS tourniquet, Z-Rex window breaker and seatbelt cutter (which every car should have in the cabin), mylar emergency blankets, 5ea disposable restraints, and 2ea reflective Star of Life stickers for the M3 bag.
- Installed in frunk plastic milk carton crate with handheld flares, SOG Entrenching Tool with built-in saw, S&W SWAT knife, Leatherman multi-tool, Schrade hatchet, towels, blankets, CREE flashlights, and so on.
- For rear applique chrome-embossed "TESLA" that's impossible to read, added drop-shadow to letters made of 1/16" black pin-striping.
- Replaced meaningless (to most) "Model S" on rear hatch, with "ELECTRIC".
- Cleaned and reated complete interior with Permanon Aircraft. Treated all leather with Lexol Deep Conditioner and all wood trim with pure walnut oil.
- Added small trash can to back of middle console, attached with 3M hermaphroditic plastic nub fastener.
Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
(Shh, you're gonna get me banned, for the third time...)
You're not still going to drive your car to my house when you finish it, are you? I've got to admit, I never thought you'd get as far as you have, Btr. I hope you've not tried to re-use -any- harnesses... or else.
Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
I forgot to mention the LiFePO (Lithium-Iron) 12v battery I've installed.
Before:
Note: the extensive sulphation -- this battery was already shot before the accident, and the car was 6 months old at the time. Bad C&D. Bad C&D. No, No.
After:
Notice that I had to make a custom stainless steel strap, as the LiFePO is 1.5" deeper than the AGM. It was worth it because it has 50Ah rather than C&D's 35Ah, and is less than half the weight. I couldn't get that corner bolt in for the tub, but I am very happy.
Lithium-Iron is more advanced than Lithium-Ion. Oh sure, slightly less capacity, but 10 times the charge cycles of AGM (and 25% more than Li-Ion), plus it can not spontaneously combust like Li-Ion can, by virtue of its chemistry.
Is it more expensive? Why yes, it is. But if you have enough sense to run the numbers, it is well worth it financially, not to mention little-to-no chance of being stranded like the AGM will do to you each year.
Before:
Note: the extensive sulphation -- this battery was already shot before the accident, and the car was 6 months old at the time. Bad C&D. Bad C&D. No, No.
After:
Notice that I had to make a custom stainless steel strap, as the LiFePO is 1.5" deeper than the AGM. It was worth it because it has 50Ah rather than C&D's 35Ah, and is less than half the weight. I couldn't get that corner bolt in for the tub, but I am very happy.
Lithium-Iron is more advanced than Lithium-Ion. Oh sure, slightly less capacity, but 10 times the charge cycles of AGM (and 25% more than Li-Ion), plus it can not spontaneously combust like Li-Ion can, by virtue of its chemistry.
Is it more expensive? Why yes, it is. But if you have enough sense to run the numbers, it is well worth it financially, not to mention little-to-no chance of being stranded like the AGM will do to you each year.
Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
I was in intel tech (long before you were born) and now in infosec, so whadaya expect. I may never be the first on an injury-accident scene (traffic is too heavy here to have one), but you never know. Don't forget a decent-sized fire extinguisher, hopefully CO2. Top Tip: Keep those flares in the plastic wrapper, so they don't absorb humidity.
Also I double-insulated the A/C compressor (against Ingineer's advice) owing to the posts about noise. And so I've never noticed any noise from it. It is cooled by the freon, so there is no ill effect. And I've stuffed insulation into the gaps of the front motor insulation to silence it, and covered with aluminum tape. BTW, the complaints about rattling of the steering wheel in dual-motors, are the air suspension pump, not the compressor. If you get that often, you have a leak.
Ingineer can ably help with your problems, though he can't do it for free as he has to make a living too.
I sort of expected an eerie silence from this, as just about everything I've done to my car is original. Some will silently borrow one or more of these ideas without acknowledging, and others don't know what to think or will wait to see if others do it. It's always been like that through the centuries for me, and so it will always be. My thanks for the likes & loves, though it doesn't matter; everything is transient. (except me)
Still selling parts, but am about to chop up the parts car's shell and sell it for the aluminum. (something no one else does, although I'll have to remove everything non-aluminum so it's a hassle) When done my P85D will be free, as I was the first to part out.
Also I double-insulated the A/C compressor (against Ingineer's advice) owing to the posts about noise. And so I've never noticed any noise from it. It is cooled by the freon, so there is no ill effect. And I've stuffed insulation into the gaps of the front motor insulation to silence it, and covered with aluminum tape. BTW, the complaints about rattling of the steering wheel in dual-motors, are the air suspension pump, not the compressor. If you get that often, you have a leak.
Ingineer can ably help with your problems, though he can't do it for free as he has to make a living too.
I sort of expected an eerie silence from this, as just about everything I've done to my car is original. Some will silently borrow one or more of these ideas without acknowledging, and others don't know what to think or will wait to see if others do it. It's always been like that through the centuries for me, and so it will always be. My thanks for the likes & loves, though it doesn't matter; everything is transient. (except me)
Still selling parts, but am about to chop up the parts car's shell and sell it for the aluminum. (something no one else does, although I'll have to remove everything non-aluminum so it's a hassle) When done my P85D will be free, as I was the first to part out.
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I like what you've done to the car with the exception of the removal of the 21 inch wheels. But then again the 21s are more of a young guys type of thing.
The sound insulation is key. There are a lot of areas of improvement in the door panels to cut down on sound. I'm not sure about the insulation of the AC compressor , but mine already came insulated from the factory by a tiny little blanket.
Did you replace the subwoofer as well? Rear deck speakers? A pillar speakers? I'm kicking myself for not replacing the speakers while I had the door panels off.
Did you open the headlights and change the projector itself or only change the ballast?
I am very jealous of really anyone that has a P85D. My ultimate goal is to have an autopilot P85D..... Someday....
The sound insulation is key. There are a lot of areas of improvement in the door panels to cut down on sound. I'm not sure about the insulation of the AC compressor , but mine already came insulated from the factory by a tiny little blanket.
Did you replace the subwoofer as well? Rear deck speakers? A pillar speakers? I'm kicking myself for not replacing the speakers while I had the door panels off.
Did you open the headlights and change the projector itself or only change the ballast?
I am very jealous of really anyone that has a P85D. My ultimate goal is to have an autopilot P85D..... Someday....
Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
The Model S has always had a problem with road noise. Here's a clue:
There are 4 approaches to ameliorate noise, depending on the nature of the noise:
- Absorber - closed-cell foam, which cells vibrate at the resonant frequency of some of the noise and convert it to low-grade heat. It impedes propagation of the remainder.
- Blocker - mass-loaded vinyl, PVC vinyl sheeting which is impregnated with heavy compounds to make it dense and floppy.
- Decoupler - a softer closed-cell foam which separates a barrier from the noise source and acts as sort of a trap.
- Dampener - a layer of butyl rubber with aluminum facing, which dampens vibration of panels which creates noise. This is the only attempt that Tesla has made in most areas.
Road noise is a low-frequency noise and so accurate measures must be taken against that. Noise can get through even a pinhole. You have to ask yourself 'where is the noise coming from'? If you don't have a head full of rocks you will answer 'the doors and wheelwells', especially if you have Michelin tires like I do and like. Then figure out what to do about it. No one but another hard-ass will go to the lengths that I did, but I now have virtual silence all the time.
There is very good reason for skepticism when it comes to products for reducing noise, especially in vehicles. I could not tell even with close study, which products had merit, even as I knew exactly what architecture I was looking for. So I ordered samples from 8 suppliers. Most were liars and charlatans, representing open-cell as closed-cell, having too-light but same-thickness barriers, and so on. With open-cell, if you look at an edge you can see through it, but you can not with closed-cell.
Oh hell there's lots to this and it's not my job to write a book.
21's are just not on, no matter what generation you are, if you're practical. I need a reliable car. It's like these young guys who lower their car way down to where the fender-to-tire gap is zero on the top and normal front and back -- silly. Unsymmetrical. The car is already low, especially as wide as it is.
I had the standard insulating blanket on my A/C compressor, but I also took the one off my parts car's and wrapped it around the first blanket. It was a stretch but I got it on there.
I didn't bother with the subwoofer, only replaced the door speakers. The front door speakers get sent only the low frequencies anyway by the Tesla (Panasonic, pfff) amp (whether it's the "Premium" amp or not). All of the Tesla dash and A-pillar speakers are just fine. The Polks have a coaxial tweeter and come with a crossover, which I fastened to the inside of the doors with 3M herm nub fastener.
With the "Premium" sound system the front doors have a larger plenum which wouldn't fit the Polks, so I took 2 plenums from my parts car. Just cut out the trashy Tesla speakers with extreme prejudice, and screwed in the Polks. Soldered to the Tesla connector. In the equalizer control I bias the balance to the front of the back seats, and now have crystal clear three-dimensional sound. I listen to classical, and believe me the bass drums as well as cymbals are true. As if it was real life. Get your polarization right or you'll be sorry.
On the headlights you have to open them and replace the projectors to get performance. I put in Morimotos, but Ingineer put in even better ones in his car, I can't remember. I followed the advice of the headlight specialist dude who used to post here.
Alot of guys try to go stupid blue for the lamp, and are then disappointed with poor performance beyond 30'-40'. The kelvin rating for lamps is based on a 35w input, and when the power is increased to 50/55w there is a color shift of ~1,000k down the scale, meaning a 6k bulb @35w is 6k output, while a 6k bulb @50w is 5k output and this must be considered when piecing together a headlight build. I wanted as close to the Sun as possible (5780 K) for true color, so I got 6500 K lamps with the 50 watt ballasts. Although Ingineer assures us the BCM can handle the current, I went with instinct and used the relays in the kit, which means not enough current is drawn for the BCM to recognize, so the toy car never shows headlights. I've thought about adding an inductor in parallel to the circuit, but don't care enough.
The color of the light matches the DRLs and fogs, and when I'm coming round a bend on the freeway at night, cars in the opposing lane a half-mile away flash their highs in objection to me. It's a broad beam too. The sharp cutoff means cars in front aren't bothered, but you must have the headlights adjusted properly or be offensive and meet some people you don't want to meet.
While I had the headlights apart I sanded and painted the chrome with high-temp black, painted the interior of the Morimotos with high-temp white, and installed my laser jammers. Ingineer also put a light-blue LED in his projectors, which glows all the time day and night. I'm already kind of overboard so didn't consider it.
There are 4 approaches to ameliorate noise, depending on the nature of the noise:
- Absorber - closed-cell foam, which cells vibrate at the resonant frequency of some of the noise and convert it to low-grade heat. It impedes propagation of the remainder.
- Blocker - mass-loaded vinyl, PVC vinyl sheeting which is impregnated with heavy compounds to make it dense and floppy.
- Decoupler - a softer closed-cell foam which separates a barrier from the noise source and acts as sort of a trap.
- Dampener - a layer of butyl rubber with aluminum facing, which dampens vibration of panels which creates noise. This is the only attempt that Tesla has made in most areas.
Road noise is a low-frequency noise and so accurate measures must be taken against that. Noise can get through even a pinhole. You have to ask yourself 'where is the noise coming from'? If you don't have a head full of rocks you will answer 'the doors and wheelwells', especially if you have Michelin tires like I do and like. Then figure out what to do about it. No one but another hard-ass will go to the lengths that I did, but I now have virtual silence all the time.
There is very good reason for skepticism when it comes to products for reducing noise, especially in vehicles. I could not tell even with close study, which products had merit, even as I knew exactly what architecture I was looking for. So I ordered samples from 8 suppliers. Most were liars and charlatans, representing open-cell as closed-cell, having too-light but same-thickness barriers, and so on. With open-cell, if you look at an edge you can see through it, but you can not with closed-cell.
Oh hell there's lots to this and it's not my job to write a book.
21's are just not on, no matter what generation you are, if you're practical. I need a reliable car. It's like these young guys who lower their car way down to where the fender-to-tire gap is zero on the top and normal front and back -- silly. Unsymmetrical. The car is already low, especially as wide as it is.
I had the standard insulating blanket on my A/C compressor, but I also took the one off my parts car's and wrapped it around the first blanket. It was a stretch but I got it on there.
I didn't bother with the subwoofer, only replaced the door speakers. The front door speakers get sent only the low frequencies anyway by the Tesla (Panasonic, pfff) amp (whether it's the "Premium" amp or not). All of the Tesla dash and A-pillar speakers are just fine. The Polks have a coaxial tweeter and come with a crossover, which I fastened to the inside of the doors with 3M herm nub fastener.
With the "Premium" sound system the front doors have a larger plenum which wouldn't fit the Polks, so I took 2 plenums from my parts car. Just cut out the trashy Tesla speakers with extreme prejudice, and screwed in the Polks. Soldered to the Tesla connector. In the equalizer control I bias the balance to the front of the back seats, and now have crystal clear three-dimensional sound. I listen to classical, and believe me the bass drums as well as cymbals are true. As if it was real life. Get your polarization right or you'll be sorry.
On the headlights you have to open them and replace the projectors to get performance. I put in Morimotos, but Ingineer put in even better ones in his car, I can't remember. I followed the advice of the headlight specialist dude who used to post here.
Alot of guys try to go stupid blue for the lamp, and are then disappointed with poor performance beyond 30'-40'. The kelvin rating for lamps is based on a 35w input, and when the power is increased to 50/55w there is a color shift of ~1,000k down the scale, meaning a 6k bulb @35w is 6k output, while a 6k bulb @50w is 5k output and this must be considered when piecing together a headlight build. I wanted as close to the Sun as possible (5780 K) for true color, so I got 6500 K lamps with the 50 watt ballasts. Although Ingineer assures us the BCM can handle the current, I went with instinct and used the relays in the kit, which means not enough current is drawn for the BCM to recognize, so the toy car never shows headlights. I've thought about adding an inductor in parallel to the circuit, but don't care enough.
The color of the light matches the DRLs and fogs, and when I'm coming round a bend on the freeway at night, cars in the opposing lane a half-mile away flash their highs in objection to me. It's a broad beam too. The sharp cutoff means cars in front aren't bothered, but you must have the headlights adjusted properly or be offensive and meet some people you don't want to meet.
While I had the headlights apart I sanded and painted the chrome with high-temp black, painted the interior of the Morimotos with high-temp white, and installed my laser jammers. Ingineer also put a light-blue LED in his projectors, which glows all the time day and night. I'm already kind of overboard so didn't consider it.
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Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
This is not my normal line of work; it was a labor of love that took 6 months of weekends, while my friends were drinking beer and watching TV. I've done a number of rebuilds but not to sell them on. To me a salvage title is only worth it if I keep it a while. Bend is in Oregon, but I'm somewhere else.
I find that in this car people are much more likely to let me in to traffic. I'm often tempted to flash around a long line of cars in a clear right lane, but I don't do that anymore as some take offense. The car is so fast I'm hardly limited with anything. A few are nastier than usual in traffic, but they either have to get up off their red arse and do one themselves, or pay for one themselves, or shut up. The car has admirers where I go but I did this for me and what I like. My goal was 'classy', so no clown colors or non-functional mods for me.
I rebuilt the car with great care, making a trip to the hardware store for one bolt just to get everything right. The frame work was superbly done by a Tesla specialist in Minneapolis, using the complete front frame rail assembly which I'd cut out of my parts car (he and I pioneered this method); having all measurements straight is important because Tesla will flunk you from recert if your frame is only a couple mm out. Then I had it aligned to lolachampcar's specs.
I did all the work with an eye toward Tesla recert. I don't expect to have it done for me (as long as I can manage to keep from pissing off Ingineer), but when it's time to sell the car it might be worth recert for the value to the new owner.
PS - After much research, the brightest and most efficient flashlight for this car: Klarus G20. It's not neutral white light (for natural color), but I'm going to replace the emitter with one that is. If you're worried about Zombiefication, more capacity is in order, assuming you buy the light only and 3,600mWh batteries. (I like this one for the magnetic recharger) Ppl should also have a headlamp in the car.
I find that in this car people are much more likely to let me in to traffic. I'm often tempted to flash around a long line of cars in a clear right lane, but I don't do that anymore as some take offense. The car is so fast I'm hardly limited with anything. A few are nastier than usual in traffic, but they either have to get up off their red arse and do one themselves, or pay for one themselves, or shut up. The car has admirers where I go but I did this for me and what I like. My goal was 'classy', so no clown colors or non-functional mods for me.
I rebuilt the car with great care, making a trip to the hardware store for one bolt just to get everything right. The frame work was superbly done by a Tesla specialist in Minneapolis, using the complete front frame rail assembly which I'd cut out of my parts car (he and I pioneered this method); having all measurements straight is important because Tesla will flunk you from recert if your frame is only a couple mm out. Then I had it aligned to lolachampcar's specs.
I did all the work with an eye toward Tesla recert. I don't expect to have it done for me (as long as I can manage to keep from pissing off Ingineer), but when it's time to sell the car it might be worth recert for the value to the new owner.
PS - After much research, the brightest and most efficient flashlight for this car: Klarus G20. It's not neutral white light (for natural color), but I'm going to replace the emitter with one that is. If you're worried about Zombiefication, more capacity is in order, assuming you buy the light only and 3,600mWh batteries. (I like this one for the magnetic recharger) Ppl should also have a headlamp in the car.
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Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
Thanks.
After 3 days' research, I've decided that I want capacity -and- brightness, so the RS30 flashlight it is.
Pros:
- Huge battery capacity for the size. (if you buy the light only and separate 3500mAh batteries -- it's mostly battery)
- Independent circuits for the two lights. One fails, you have the other. In use, it automatically alternates between the lights in lower modes.
- It actually measures close to the claimed 2,400 lumens. (as opposed to most)
- It is fairly floody.
- The switch isn't prone to accidents.
- That magnetic charger is fantastic. Leave it connected in the car holster, and whip it off in a hurry without damage.
Cons:
- No battery springs in the tailpiece. And the tailpiece conductive springs get dirty and impact high mode.
- With a Cree XM-L2-U2 it's not natural colored light.
- Weird shape for a flashlight.
Well, I can put dielectric grease on all the springs, to make the connections gas-tight and deter oxidization. And I should be able to replace those emitters and get high-CRI light with the same output. (for accurate color) Can't do anything about the weird shape though. :j
BTW, batteries are a problem; they rarely have the capacity they say they do. Hint: here are some UltraFire AAs:
How crafty are them Red Chinese? Get rid of their toxic waste powder -and- make lots of money on batteries, lol...
After much research I found that for 18650 batteries (which I need for the RS30, and is the size of Tesla's traditional cells - 18mm diameter by 65mm long), KeepPower, EVVA, and OrbTronic actually have close to their rated capacities, so I bought the OrbTronic 3500mAh flat-tops. (I only buy 'protected' batteries, and each of these companies take a Panasonic battery and adds the protective circuit board to it) Two of these together have almost 7000mAh, compared with the G20's almost 5000mAh. A week of power.
The RS30 has the most brightness, LED efficiency, and longevity, in the smallest package. And if the color rendering isn't accurate enough, I'll reflow new LED dies that have accurate color. (linked)
After 3 days' research, I've decided that I want capacity -and- brightness, so the RS30 flashlight it is.
Pros:
- Huge battery capacity for the size. (if you buy the light only and separate 3500mAh batteries -- it's mostly battery)
- Independent circuits for the two lights. One fails, you have the other. In use, it automatically alternates between the lights in lower modes.
- It actually measures close to the claimed 2,400 lumens. (as opposed to most)
- It is fairly floody.
- The switch isn't prone to accidents.
- That magnetic charger is fantastic. Leave it connected in the car holster, and whip it off in a hurry without damage.
Cons:
- No battery springs in the tailpiece. And the tailpiece conductive springs get dirty and impact high mode.
- With a Cree XM-L2-U2 it's not natural colored light.
- Weird shape for a flashlight.
Well, I can put dielectric grease on all the springs, to make the connections gas-tight and deter oxidization. And I should be able to replace those emitters and get high-CRI light with the same output. (for accurate color) Can't do anything about the weird shape though. :j
BTW, batteries are a problem; they rarely have the capacity they say they do. Hint: here are some UltraFire AAs:
How crafty are them Red Chinese? Get rid of their toxic waste powder -and- make lots of money on batteries, lol...
After much research I found that for 18650 batteries (which I need for the RS30, and is the size of Tesla's traditional cells - 18mm diameter by 65mm long), KeepPower, EVVA, and OrbTronic actually have close to their rated capacities, so I bought the OrbTronic 3500mAh flat-tops. (I only buy 'protected' batteries, and each of these companies take a Panasonic battery and adds the protective circuit board to it) Two of these together have almost 7000mAh, compared with the G20's almost 5000mAh. A week of power.
The RS30 has the most brightness, LED efficiency, and longevity, in the smallest package. And if the color rendering isn't accurate enough, I'll reflow new LED dies that have accurate color. (linked)
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Dr. Smoke
My former name was Edmond. Before that, Quantum`.
Right then, I've had enough of this forum. I'm not coming back. Moderators are too unbalanced in their application of policies.
I posted very little detail here, and for good reason. I expected that things hadn't changed, and they haven't.
Another technical person gone.
I posted very little detail here, and for good reason. I expected that things hadn't changed, and they haven't.
Another technical person gone.
I would assume it has something to do with this:
Dr. Smoke, Aka Edmond, was previously banned for trying to sell stuff without being a sponser.
Such a pity as his posts were really informative.
I'm another one thinking of buying a salvage MS but was holding out till I saw one complete. His is the only one I've seen so far. (there could be others as I've not scanned all of the forums).
Good on him though
Still not enough information on actual costs of repairs and total costs of spend.
I'm another one thinking of buying a salvage MS but was holding out till I saw one complete. His is the only one I've seen so far. (there could be others as I've not scanned all of the forums).
Good on him though
Still not enough information on actual costs of repairs and total costs of spend.
SeminoleFSU
Voluntaryist
