The Model S has always had a problem with road noise. Here's a clue:
There are 4 approaches to ameliorate noise, depending on the nature of the noise:
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Absorber - closed-cell foam, which cells vibrate at the resonant frequency of some of the noise and convert it to low-grade heat. It impedes propagation of the remainder.
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Blocker - mass-loaded vinyl, PVC vinyl sheeting which is impregnated with heavy compounds to make it dense and floppy.
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Decoupler - a softer closed-cell foam which separates a barrier from the noise source and acts as sort of a trap.
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Dampener - a layer of butyl rubber with aluminum facing, which dampens vibration of panels which creates noise. This is the only attempt that Tesla has made in most areas.
Road noise is a low-frequency noise and so accurate measures must be taken against that. Noise can get through even a pinhole. You have to ask yourself 'where is the noise coming from'? If you don't have a head full of rocks you will answer 'the doors and wheelwells', especially if you have Michelin tires like I do and like. Then figure out what to do about it. No one but another hard-ass will go to the lengths that I did, but I now have virtual silence all the time.
There is very good reason for skepticism when it comes to products for reducing noise, especially in vehicles. I could not tell even with close study, which products had merit, even as I knew exactly what architecture I was looking for. So I ordered samples from 8 suppliers. Most were liars and charlatans, representing open-cell as closed-cell, having too-light but same-thickness barriers, and so on. With open-cell, if you look at an edge you can see through it, but you can not with closed-cell.
Oh hell there's lots to this and it's not my job to write a book.
21's are just not on, no matter what generation you are, if you're practical. I need a reliable car. It's like these young guys who lower their car way down to where the fender-to-tire gap is zero on the top and normal front and back -- silly. Unsymmetrical. The car is already low, especially as wide as it is.
I had the standard insulating blanket on my A/C compressor, but I also took the one off my parts car's and wrapped it around the first blanket. It was a stretch but I got it on there.
I didn't bother with the subwoofer, only replaced the door speakers. The front door speakers get sent only the low frequencies anyway by the Tesla (Panasonic, pfff) amp (whether it's the "Premium" amp or not). All of the Tesla dash and A-pillar speakers are just fine. The Polks have a coaxial tweeter and come with a crossover, which I fastened to the inside of the doors with 3M herm nub fastener.
With the "Premium" sound system the front doors have a larger plenum which wouldn't fit the Polks, so I took 2 plenums from my parts car. Just cut out the trashy Tesla speakers with extreme prejudice, and screwed in the Polks. Soldered to the Tesla connector. In the equalizer control I bias the balance to the front of the back seats, and now have crystal clear three-dimensional sound. I listen to classical, and believe me the bass drums as well as cymbals are true. As if it was real life. Get your polarization right or you'll be sorry.
On the headlights you have to open them and replace the projectors to get performance. I put in Morimotos, but Ingineer put in even better ones in his car, I can't remember. I followed the advice of the headlight specialist dude who used to post here.
Alot of guys try to go stupid blue for the lamp, and are then disappointed with poor performance beyond 30'-40'. The kelvin rating for lamps is based on a 35w input, and when the power is increased to 50/55w there is a color shift of ~1,000k down the scale, meaning a 6k bulb @35w is 6k output, while a 6k bulb @50w is 5k output and this must be considered when piecing together a headlight build. I wanted as close to the Sun as possible (5780 K) for true color, so I got 6500 K lamps with the 50 watt ballasts. Although Ingineer assures us the BCM can handle the current, I went with instinct and used the relays in the kit, which means not enough current is drawn for the BCM to recognize, so the toy car never shows headlights. I've thought about adding an inductor in parallel to the circuit, but don't care enough.
The color of the light matches the DRLs and fogs, and when I'm coming round a bend on the freeway at night, cars in the opposing lane a half-mile away flash their highs in objection to me. It's a broad beam too. The sharp cutoff means cars in front aren't bothered, but you must have the headlights adjusted properly or be offensive and meet some people you don't want to meet.
While I had the headlights apart I sanded and painted the chrome with high-temp black, painted the interior of the Morimotos with high-temp white, and installed my laser jammers. Ingineer also put a light-blue LED in his projectors, which glows all the time day and night. I'm already kind of overboard so didn't consider it.