Like Harley and Porsche faithful, only the mark will do and price merely determines which model you will buy. A Tesla with an interior of a Corolla is still a Tesla underneath.Civics or corollas don't cost $60k.
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Like Harley and Porsche faithful, only the mark will do and price merely determines which model you will buy. A Tesla with an interior of a Corolla is still a Tesla underneath.Civics or corollas don't cost $60k.
Lithium 12V batteries are fine for warm climate regions. They must not be charged below zero degrees Celsius without preheating, as they get permanently damaged.Battmobile sells MUCH longer-life, lighter weight lithium 12V battery replacements to everyone. They're referenced many places here on TMC forum and I've seen one in person and what I will buy in the future, but I can't recall their website for sure right now. Probably battmobile.com or some variation. Definitely worth the time to look it up!
Good luck!
I believe some lithium chemistry can be charged below freezing.Lithium 12V batteries are fine for warm climate regions. They must not be charged below zero degrees Celsius without preheating, as they get permanently damaged.
Can someone give me some direction. I vacuumed my HVAC and charged the system the pump ran but never got very cold or over 90lb on the high side. The condenser fans never started. Saw a puff of 134a and it quit. Now the pump won't run and the fans dead. The rest of the system is fine. Jumped the condenser fan relay and they run fine. 2013 S fans were possibly jammed, AC Line was replaced. all else is fine.
Kevin, I think you left me a voicemail Friday without leaving a name or phone number. I'd rather answer this one publicly anyway for the benefit of others.
Check your temperature sensor off the front harness with the horn, etc. If the temp sensor is disconnected, the compressor will refuse to run. You can check to see if this is working by looking to see if the outside temperature is being reported by the cluster and MCU. It will show "- -" if not . It is working fine. Shows temp in the dash. I just do not know where to put it there is a hole on the top of the air box and the service manual gives no image.
Step 2 - if your car is equipped with chiller and evaporator solenoids, make sure they were energized (open) during coolant charging.
Not sure about this may be my problem checked all my fuses swapped solenoids so I know they are good. It took the 780g no problem. Seems like the chiller never closed as it never got cold and the high side never went over 90lbs. not reciveing the signal again? I reset with all 3 reset methods. Is there a way to clear errors in the ecu that controls the chiller pump and fans?
Step 3 - Make sure the condenser fan controllers are properly connected and were not damaged in the crash. They are mounted on the outside of the driver and passenger frame rails near each wheel well. I jumped the fan solenoid and they ran at full speed. so this solenoid is not closing and is good so where does the signal come from?
I'm betting it's the missing temp sensor and / or harness though. O'Reilly's sales the temp sensor for less than $20. Good luck.
Kevin, I think you left me a voicemail Friday without leaving a name or phone number. I'd rather answer this one publicly anyway for the benefit of others.
Check your temperature sensor off the front harness with the horn, etc. If the temp sensor is disconnected, the compressor will refuse to run. You can check to see if this is working by looking to see if the outside temperature is being reported by the cluster and MCU. It will show "- -" if not.
It is working fine. Shows temp in the dash. I just do not know where to put it there is a hole on the top of the air box and the service manual gives no image.
Step 2 - if your car is equipped with chiller and evaporator solenoids, make sure they were energized (open) during coolant charging.
Not sure about this may be my problem checked all my fuses swapped solenoids so I know they are good. It took the 780g no problem. Seems like the chiller never closed as it never got cold and the high side never went over 90lbs. not reciveing the signal again? I reset with all 3 reset methods. Is there a way to clear errors in the ecu that controls the chiller pump and fans?
Step 3 - Make sure the condenser fan controllers are properly connected and were not damaged in the crash. They are mounted on the outside of the driver and passenger frame rails near each wheel well.
I jumped the fan solenoid and they ran at full speed. so this solenoid is not closing and is good so where does the signal come from?
I'm betting it's the missing temp sensor and / or harness though. O'Reilly's sales the temp sensor for less than $20. Good luck.
Thank you for the reply. I am sorry I neglected to leave my number. Very much appreciate the help! I have been working on this for a year (mostly locating parts) and I am so close!
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No worries on the voicemail. When I say solenoid, I'm referring to what's built into the chiller and evaporator blocks, not the relays in your fuse box. You can unplug the harness at each block and run low current 12v through to energize them. You should hear them click and open. These were present in most RWDs prior to the release of AWD and the new composite radiator support. You will need to open these to charge the AC properly. ND-11 oil is also crucial.
If all else fails you want to check fuses for the thermal controller and compressor as well as verify power at each component's harness connection. The thermal controller should be signaling / controlling most or all of this. You need to be very careful around the compressor high voltage connections though. Disengaging the HV connector will probably trigger HVIL and open the HV battery contactors for safety until you reseat the connector.
ECU and DTC clears would be performed using Tesla's diagnostic software.
Edit: Beautiful car, by the way.
I don't even know who you are, and I have no messages from you. If you are going to slander me here, please provide proof instead of heresay.I am reluctant to say this but Ingineer took my money a while back and then dropped out of sight. Won't respond to me.
I am reluctant to say this but Ingineer took my money a while back and then dropped out of sight. Won't respond to me.
Not slander. And not recent. I gave up on you and went with another, but I am still out my (significant) money and resent it.I don't even know who you are, and I have no messages from you. If you are going to slander me here, please provide proof instead of heresay