Friend put my car in service mode plus so I could do full software reinstall. Found few active errors that wouldn’t clear and I think they are autopilot related which I am trying to fix (possibly bad sensor?) APP_010_radcCalibIssue and THC_w0130_radLeftShutrNoFeedbk Is there place to look up what these mean?
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I have seen it work for Pay for charging but to be clear it is a temporary fix until Tesla turns SC off again (usually a week). If majority of your driving is local and you only need SC on occasion the transfer trick is not much of a hassle especially if you don’t have CCS option. Other charging alternatives for long trips just too slow I think
The first one looks like your radar is not properly calibrated. This is a pain in the neck. You can calibrate the vertical orientation with a level. For the horizontal one you can try toolbox or do it “by eye”. Be careful when installing the bumper back: you can easily hit the radar and spoil your calibration.
The second error refers to one of the active shutters. I think that one is on the passenger’s side (usually left is driver’s side, but I also got a similar error and it seems they reversed the notation for this). I’m not sure which shutter is this one. Check the outer louvres, and if these are working, most likely it refers to an inner louvre. The culprit is most likely an actuator.
The second error refers to one of the active shutters. I think that one is on the passenger’s side (usually left is driver’s side, but I also got a similar error and it seems they reversed the notation for this). I’m not sure which shutter is this one. Check the outer louvres, and if these are working, most likely it refers to an inner louvre. The culprit is most likely an actuator.
Thanks. This helps a lot. May I ask where the radar is located? Is it a manual calibration by hand or can it be done all via software using Toolbox. My friend has Toolbox and can ask him for help.
Is your car a Model S? Original ones have the radar below the nosecone, and that one is easy to calibrate with screwdrivers. The refreshed version requires that you remove the bumper. Then you’ll clearly see it.
The vertical orientation is always manual. I didn’t have to calibrate the radar after getting toolbox access, so every time I manually calibrated the horizontal orientation as well. I’m not sure how helpful is toolbox alone (you might need a pole to do the procedure).
The vertical orientation is always manual. I didn’t have to calibrate the radar after getting toolbox access, so every time I manually calibrated the horizontal orientation as well. I’m not sure how helpful is toolbox alone (you might need a pole to do the procedure).
MS2017 90d so refresh. Looks like I have my weekend project. Do we have access to service guides?
Well, I have the same model, so I can really help you a lot!
That guide is fine to understand the basics, BUT you can have FULL ACCESS to the service manual for the refreshed version if you register in service.tesla.com. Since a few months ago they offer the service manuals for free (just choose the free subscription).
In any case, the service manual might not be very helpful. Most likely it refers to a toolbox calibration procedure that you can’t do, or that needs special tools that you don’t have (check it out anyway… is it AP2 or AP2.5? You might have more luck with a Continental radar).
For the calibration “by eye”, just follow these steps:
- Remove the front bumper:
1. There are two screws under the wheel arch you need to remove, then unclip the bumper from the sides. You might need to take the wheel arch cover from under the bumper, but do not do it until you unscrew the two bolts that keep it attached to the bumper from below.
2. From below, you need to take all the rivets that fasten the splash shield to the bumper, as well as the two external screws next to each wheel arch (there are 4, but only 2 connect to the bumper).
3. Open the frunk, take out the plasic trim on top (the top cover, the side covers and the one at the front). After that, it’s just 4 bolts at the front, close to where the Tesla symbol is.
Be careful lifting it, and keep an eye on the front harness cable. In my case, after a repair covered by my insurance, the cable was routed in such a way that I can’t comfortably remove the bumper (it hangs from the cable), so I just put a box below to keep the bumper high whenever I have to do this. The cable is on the passenger side.
- Follow the vertical orientation alignment procedure as you saw in the link you gave me. There are two screws in the radar bracket: one is for horizontal alignment and the other one is for vertical alignment. I never remember which one is which, but it will be obvious when you are at this step. You can use any level that has a flat side, no need to buy the $50 level tool Tesla suggests (which is cool anyway, but I use a crappy $1 level and works).
- If you can’t do the horizontal alignment with Toolbox (and to be honest, I would try a manual alignment in any case, because you need to put the bumper back for this, and if Toolbox doesn’t solve your problems, you’ll need to remove the bumper again) you need to go to the side of the car, find references and look at the radar. Try to make the surface of the radar perfectly perpendicular to the moving direction. I use thread or a ribbon to get my references.
- Once you have adjusted the radar horizontally, check again the vertical orientation. The bracket is crap, and will move.
- Install the bumper back. TRY NOT TO TOUCH THE RADAR. It’s much easier said than done. I would say this is a two people job, but I managed to do it alone. If you touch the radar, you most likely will change the vertical alignment, and although you can adjust that (blindly) without removing the bumper, believe me, it won’t work. So be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when putting back the bumper (yes, it’s heavy). Try to find support on the central area, where you took the four bolts out, and as soon as you align properly the holes, put (very loosely) the bolts to keep the bumper in place. Then go to the next step.
- You need to work from below the bumper. This is the worst part. The splash shield has tabs where some fins of the bumper are inserted. Make sure all the fins are inside the tabs before moving on. I would start from one side, clip the bumper (you might need to move it up to fit the fender), secure it with the screw and check the tabs one by one. There is a bracket under the fog light that tends to fall, you might need to reinstall that as well. You can put the rivets as you secure the fins, but make sure you can work on the next fin, otherwise you might have to undo what you just did.
- Once you are done, tighten all the screws and bolts, reinstall the frunk trim and… DRIVE. You’ll see the error. If you have done things properly, it will (eventually) go away. Sometimes it goes away after 60 miles, some other times it takes 200 miles. If you go over 250 miles and you still see the error, you might have to repeat the process again. Once out to me THREE TIMES to adjust the f@#%ing radar, but believe me, there is light at the end of the tunnel. Before trying again, it might be a good time to check toolbox, just in case.
I hope this helps. I had to do this procedure three or four times for several reasons, and except for the last one, it always took me more than one attempt to calibrate the radar. I didn’t know why it was so difficult, until I found that the bumper easily hits the radar when reinstalling it. It’s really a pain in the neck. I hope your bracket is more solid than mine…
That guide is fine to understand the basics, BUT you can have FULL ACCESS to the service manual for the refreshed version if you register in service.tesla.com. Since a few months ago they offer the service manuals for free (just choose the free subscription).
In any case, the service manual might not be very helpful. Most likely it refers to a toolbox calibration procedure that you can’t do, or that needs special tools that you don’t have (check it out anyway… is it AP2 or AP2.5? You might have more luck with a Continental radar).
For the calibration “by eye”, just follow these steps:
- Remove the front bumper:
1. There are two screws under the wheel arch you need to remove, then unclip the bumper from the sides. You might need to take the wheel arch cover from under the bumper, but do not do it until you unscrew the two bolts that keep it attached to the bumper from below.
2. From below, you need to take all the rivets that fasten the splash shield to the bumper, as well as the two external screws next to each wheel arch (there are 4, but only 2 connect to the bumper).
3. Open the frunk, take out the plasic trim on top (the top cover, the side covers and the one at the front). After that, it’s just 4 bolts at the front, close to where the Tesla symbol is.
Be careful lifting it, and keep an eye on the front harness cable. In my case, after a repair covered by my insurance, the cable was routed in such a way that I can’t comfortably remove the bumper (it hangs from the cable), so I just put a box below to keep the bumper high whenever I have to do this. The cable is on the passenger side.
- Follow the vertical orientation alignment procedure as you saw in the link you gave me. There are two screws in the radar bracket: one is for horizontal alignment and the other one is for vertical alignment. I never remember which one is which, but it will be obvious when you are at this step. You can use any level that has a flat side, no need to buy the $50 level tool Tesla suggests (which is cool anyway, but I use a crappy $1 level and works).
- If you can’t do the horizontal alignment with Toolbox (and to be honest, I would try a manual alignment in any case, because you need to put the bumper back for this, and if Toolbox doesn’t solve your problems, you’ll need to remove the bumper again) you need to go to the side of the car, find references and look at the radar. Try to make the surface of the radar perfectly perpendicular to the moving direction. I use thread or a ribbon to get my references.
- Once you have adjusted the radar horizontally, check again the vertical orientation. The bracket is crap, and will move.
- Install the bumper back. TRY NOT TO TOUCH THE RADAR. It’s much easier said than done. I would say this is a two people job, but I managed to do it alone. If you touch the radar, you most likely will change the vertical alignment, and although you can adjust that (blindly) without removing the bumper, believe me, it won’t work. So be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when putting back the bumper (yes, it’s heavy). Try to find support on the central area, where you took the four bolts out, and as soon as you align properly the holes, put (very loosely) the bolts to keep the bumper in place. Then go to the next step.
- You need to work from below the bumper. This is the worst part. The splash shield has tabs where some fins of the bumper are inserted. Make sure all the fins are inside the tabs before moving on. I would start from one side, clip the bumper (you might need to move it up to fit the fender), secure it with the screw and check the tabs one by one. There is a bracket under the fog light that tends to fall, you might need to reinstall that as well. You can put the rivets as you secure the fins, but make sure you can work on the next fin, otherwise you might have to undo what you just did.
- Once you are done, tighten all the screws and bolts, reinstall the frunk trim and… DRIVE. You’ll see the error. If you have done things properly, it will (eventually) go away. Sometimes it goes away after 60 miles, some other times it takes 200 miles. If you go over 250 miles and you still see the error, you might have to repeat the process again. Once out to me THREE TIMES to adjust the f@#%ing radar, but believe me, there is light at the end of the tunnel. Before trying again, it might be a good time to check toolbox, just in case.
I hope this helps. I had to do this procedure three or four times for several reasons, and except for the last one, it always took me more than one attempt to calibrate the radar. I didn’t know why it was so difficult, until I found that the bumper easily hits the radar when reinstalling it. It’s really a pain in the neck. I hope your bracket is more solid than mine…
Thank you very much for the detailed guide. I ordered a laser pointer thinking I could attach it somehow to the radar so I could tell where it was pointing and align it that way. Hoping my mounting bracket is more sturdy because base on what you are telling me it may not support holding weight of laser if it can be easily jostled when putting back bumper. It worked shortly before I bought it. My car is parked on a sloped driveway so radar is pointed into the asphalt or the road everyday so wondering if that makes it think it is not calibrated or it is just very finicky and comes out of alignment with a speed bump or pothole. As for access to toolbox I am fortunate that the dealer I bought car from has been helping me out as he has toolbox which is how I was able to see the APP errors. He even offered to do the calibration for me if I have problems which is great support given there is no “signed warranty”.
New Salvage MS 2017 90d owner. Now that I am entirely responsible for maintenance (Tesla service won’t work on my car) what things should I be doing/monitoring besides brakes and tires? Anything that typically goes bad in my model? Will take any recommendations.
So a Tesla salvage vehicle owner can transfer to a new email, verify they have pay SC available on the car screen, then pull the MCU out of the dash and disconnect the cellular antenna (maroon plug upper right, closest to glovebox), and keep supercharging forever?
That I do not know. I thought about that when trying to find a solution. My initial guess is that to connect to SC it has to recognize the car and who to charge/credit card for the electricity. I don’t think it can do that if you disconnect cellular antenna. The solution I proposed is a workaround and takes a few minutes using their mobile app and an alternate email. If you want a more permanent solution there are some people that root software but for me I now charge at home mainly and only use SC for long trips. I did use the transfer thing for a month or two before I installed my Tesla wall charger. I guess you can try your solution but my workaround allows you to still get software updates and such.
Hi all,
Can a large drive unit ('13 Model S RWD) just be swapped with another LDU (and a redeploy)? Or is any hacking/rooting necessary to pair it with the car?
If so, will any LDU (base/performance, AWD, RWD...) work? Or does it need to be a specific part number (I currently have a remanufactured 1025276-00-Q)?
I've been searching the internet (and this forum), but could not find an answer.
Can a large drive unit ('13 Model S RWD) just be swapped with another LDU (and a redeploy)? Or is any hacking/rooting necessary to pair it with the car?
If so, will any LDU (base/performance, AWD, RWD...) work? Or does it need to be a specific part number (I currently have a remanufactured 1025276-00-Q)?
I've been searching the internet (and this forum), but could not find an answer.
Nintendo80
Member
Guys any idea what to do on 2021 models refresh after crash? Pyrofuse changed, srs module reset and airbag replaced but the car won’t run. I changed 12V battery but still having no 12V power and connector won't close.
If you search “drive unit replacement with upgrade” there is a post which may be useful. I don’t know how to forward. Based on this the LDU are the same in those years.
RWD cars used the "large" rear drive unit that is also installed in performance models.
RWD: large rear drive unit
AWD non-performance: small rear drive unit and small front drive unit
AWD performance: large rear drive unit and small front drive unit
Thanks. I’ve read the topic and watched the video, but could not find an answer to my questions.
I know which cars have physically the same LDU. The physical swap is also not a problem. I want to know what needs to be done on the software side. Is just a redeploy enough, or is it much more involved?
I’m not looking for an upgrade (that would obviously need more work on the software side), just a swap of a LDU from another car.
My guess it would be a simple plug and play if replacing with same exact drive unit. Could explain why there is not much online. Morph3x above stated we have full access to service manual online. Service.Tesla.com. There may be detailed instructions there on replacing LDU and what it entails including software if any.
brainhouston
Active Member
I think i recall reading somewhere that only later at some point Tesla started sending immobilizer code to DU for Drive command.
So yours might be early enough to just needing redeploy
It might have been this thread:
Let the hacking begin... (Model S parts on the bench)
Greetings! You folks all pretty much know me and my mountain of projects by now. Well, I've added one more to that ever growing list. Behold! A Model S 17" MCU and IC running on the bench. :) And a short video of the minor success and tinkering I've done getting these guys running on the...
teslamotorsclub.com
To add to this, i think inverter is different on P.. LDU (larger components for more current)
That would probably depending on firmware version and not production year. I've got the latest (MCU1) firmware.
The service manual states "Use Toolbox to reset the immobilizer", so I assume some pairing needs to be done.
Anyone knows if Toolbox is the only way, or are there other possibilities?
