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Sentry mode hardware and setup

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As already mentioned these are HDDs meaning physical spinning disk. No issues regarding failure, but the power consumption to keep the disk spinning is a lot more than an SSD. HDDs save power by having a cache and stopping the spin, which is no good for something that is constantly writing (like a dashcam).

HDDs typically use around 4W while in use and 3W while idle - you would need to disconnect this if you leave it in the car or it will feed from your battery.
SSD I linked uses 2.8W while active and 0.05W while idle - wds240g2g0b

Some math wizard can calculate how much range that is per hour...

Second point is you are paying more for the enclosure and manufacturing process than the actual facility (storage space). Meaning you pay a lot for the case the HDD comes in.
 
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Just don't buy NVME SSDs those drink a lot of power, and get very hot. The case requires fans.

NVMe is just the interface. A samsung Evo uses about 30mw idle.. it's trivial.

Putting it on a USB2 interface is a bit of a waste though. Might as well stick a cheaper SATA one in.

Never heard of any hard drive that required fans (well except the old 8" ones on the IBM things from the 70s).
 
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NVMe is just the interface. A samsung Evo uses about 30mw idle.. it's trivial.

Putting it on a USB2 interface is a bit of a waste though. Might as well stick a cheaper SATA one in.

Never heard of any hard drive that required fans (well except the old 8" ones on the IBM things from the 70s).

Ok, not sure if you are just joking...

1. power at itdle is going to be similar between all SSDs, power while in use, NVMe is going to use a lot more, get very hot, and require special enclosures if buying m.2 format to allow for cooling.

For example:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ICY-BOX-En...09&hvtargid=pla-637501227350&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

2. What does SATA have to do with anything? And no you cant use NVMe on SATA, the whole point is that you don't use SATA. For external applications it's usually USB3, you need the extra power from usb3.

3. A 2.5" Samsung Evo SSD is not NVMe, it's a regular SATA SSD. You can get 2.5" NVMe, but they are enterprise level SSDs and you still plug them into PCIe not SATA.


The reason why I'd advise against them for a Tesla is because its very easy to buy an M.2 NVMe instead of a regular one. They look almost identical. NVMe has more pins.
 
I went down the SSD route but I'd advise not getting one of those caddies with NGFF sockets - I had to send 2 back as they both broke during putting it in place and removing it from the car. I'd suggest going for one with a USB-C socket since they are easier to plug in and the plug is reversible. I got this one for around £20 plus a 240GB drive.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JLYHFK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In the MX I’ve run the cable from the armrest USB sockets, underneath the sliding cubby hole bit beneath the rubber mat as far back as I can go. I just disconnect the drive from the cable to delete and review footage. 240GB lasted me about a week when I left sentry mode on 24/7 on a busy road. If I recall it drained at around 6-7% a day. I only activate sentry if I’m parking somewhere unfamiliar or where the car could get dinged!
 
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I can only see the options to format this drive as NTFS (default) or exFAT. Will one of these options work?
Neither..it needs to be FAT32. There should be an option on Disk utility (Mac) to choose this. For Windows, you'll probably need another tool since Windows doesn't allow you to use FAT32 as an option for drives >32GB. This piece of software seems to be a popular choice:

GUIFormat
 
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Neither..it needs to be FAT32. There should be an option on Disk utility (Mac) to choose this. For Windows, you'll probably need another tool since Windows doesn't allow you to use FAT32 as an option for drives >32GB. This piece of software seems to be a popular choice:

GUIFormat

Thank you. That tool made the job far simpler than expected!
 
Forgot to mention that on Win 10, I use GuiFormat from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd because of the 32GB Fat32 limit on Windows 10. Its been recommended several times, but I link it here to keep things all in one place.

I do a full format, iirc it takes about 50 minutes for 128GB card. Slightly off putting, but it does seem to restart back o 0% several times, however as long as the timer continues to count down, it will complete when time reaches 0.

Nothing to install, just runs as a .exe from any folder. Won't work on Windows S though as its not a Windows store app.

Obviously take care with exactly what drive you are formatting with these type of things. Drive letters can change so always double check that drive letter you are going to format matches what file manager says is the card you are going to format.
 
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Forgot to mention that on Win 10, I use GuiFormat from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd because of the 32GB Fat32 limit on Windows 10. Its been recommended several times, but I link it here to keep things all in one place.

After a few teething problems, such a 0 block files, I have had more consistent results using Formatting with RMPrep (option 3) here. It also has the benefit of doing a (destructive) size check to check if card is fake or not - quite a few fake cards are being sold that are a fraction of their sold capacity.