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Blue.. blacked out.. Looks great!!!

Did you do your lights yourself? I've been experimenting on a broken set of lights, to see what I want with mine.

If you did them yourself, did you use the rustoleum... frosted glass on the daytime running lights?

Went with something a little different this time. 20x9 +30 squared, 245/40/20 Cinturato P7 All Season Plus II. I still need to take legit pictures, but these came out ok.

View attachment 597036 View attachment 597037
 
Blue.. blacked out.. Looks great!!!
Did you do your lights yourself? I've been experimenting on a broken set of lights, to see what I want with mine.
If you did them yourself, did you use the rustoleum... frosted glass on the daytime running lights?

Yeah I did it myself, used a heat gun instead of an oven to separate them. I used Krylon for the frosting and Rustoleum for the painting.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLKB8GM/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00114LS5A/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00106IZLO/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5PM29J/
 
For 20" Wheel Owners:

Not sure if this has been posted yet or is common knowledge, but apparently the Service Center has settings for 20" wheels on the S. I recently took my new S (Raven) with a set of 20" Unplugged UP-03's on it to the service center because I felt it was sitting a little high on the "low" setting.

This is the text they sent (see attachment).

I picked it up this morning and on on my way to work (130 mile round trip), it was easy to tell that the car drives so much better now. The nose no longer pops up and the steering wheel no longer gets squarely on hard accelerations. Also felt the ride was smoother on all the different suspension settings on the highway. Car overall handled much better too, and sat lower in the "low" setting.

Only kicker, there are no wheels shown on the the avatar of the car in any of the screens/settings. The tech did mention this in the text.

EDIT: Also, he mentions "Larger wheel size configuration was responsible for the air suspension not lowering completely in the low setting". So are you better off setting the car to 19"s vs 21"s if you don't plan to have it set to 20" by the SC?

I also wonder if setting the car to 19" wheels would lower it in "low" even lower than the 20" setting the SC has set. That is something I will not be testing as it seems I would have to take it back to them to set it back to 20" (and they will probably charge me for it).
 

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For 20" Wheel Owners:

Not sure if this has been posted yet or is common knowledge, but apparently the Service Center has settings for 20" wheels on the S. I recently took my new S (Raven) with a set of 20" Unplugged UP-03's on it to the service center because I felt it was sitting a little high on the "low" setting.

This is the text they sent (see attachment).

I picked it up this morning and on on my way to work (130 mile round trip), it was easy to tell that the car drives so much better now. The nose no longer pops up and the steering wheel no longer gets squarely on hard accelerations. Also felt the ride was smoother on all the different suspension settings on the highway. Car overall handled much better too, and sat lower in the "low" setting.

Only kicker, there are no wheels shown on the the avatar of the car in any of the screens/settings. The tech did mention this in the text.

EDIT: Also, he mentions "Larger wheel size configuration was responsible for the air suspension not lowering completely in the low setting". So are you better off setting the car to 19"s vs 21"s if you don't plan to have it set to 20" by the SC?

I also wonder if setting the car to 19" wheels would lower it in "low" even lower than the 20" setting the SC has set. That is something I will not be testing as it seems I would have to take it back to them to set it back to 20" (and they will probably charge me for it).
Not only is this not common knowledge but I don't believe it to be accurate.
 
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Not only is this not common knowledge but I don't believe it to be accurate.
And... the car sitting a tad bit lower resolved a squirrelly steering wheel, smoothed out the ride on all road types, and just handled better overall?
You sure they didn’t find loose sway bar bolts or something and didn’t tell you? :)

How much lower did the car sit post the 20” cfg setting change? What tire sizes are you running with the UP wheels, ie did you keep the overall diameter the same/close to stock, whether 19s or 21s? Also, what does the MCU show now under wheel cfg?
@OCS300, sorry for all the questions/poking and I’m glad the car feels/drives much better for you, but we just like details here. :)
 
And... the car sitting a tad bit lower resolved a squirrelly steering wheel, smoothed out the ride on all road types, and just handled better overall?
You sure they didn’t find loose sway bar bolts or something and didn’t tell you? :)

How much lower did the car sit post the 20” cfg setting change? What tire sizes are you running with the UP wheels, ie did you keep the overall diameter the same/close to stock, whether 19s or 21s? Also, what does the MCU show now under wheel cfg?
@OCS300, sorry for all the questions/poking and I’m glad the car feels/drives much better for you, but we just like details here. :)


No problem with the questions. I'll try to provide more details. Also, @Ostrichsak could be right about the info I was given being inaccurate. Just trying to share my impressions and maybe find out if anyone else had this done.

the car sitting a tad bit lower resolved a squirrelly steering wheel --> absolutely, but maybe I didn't describe it right. Heres some background to help describe what I noticed.

I traded in my 2017 100D for a 2020 Raven Performance about 3 weeks ago. I owned the 100D for 3 years and was very familiar with how it drove (same crazy commute). When I first got the 100D, during hard accelerations (always with the air suspension in low), I would get this "squirrelly steering wheel feel". Its the feeling of the front end rising higher than the back when you slam on the gas, and when that happens, the steering feels loose because the front end isn't as planted to the ground. I had the UP lowering brackets installed on the 100D and the car handled incredible, sat super low, and the front end no longer popped up during hard accelerations and so the steering wheel felt solid. Problem was the UPs made the car too low for Chicago and so I had them removed and had lowering links installed, but not as low, around 1/2" drop. The loose wheel feel came back and the front end popped up higher than with the UP brackets. It was better than stock though, but still not planted enough for my linking. I had them lower it to 0.8 inches and that was the perfect mix of not sitting too low and good handling.

When I got the Raven, I had my UP-03's added day one. 245/40/20 all around and set the MCU to 21" wheels. On the Raven the front end popped up even higher than what I remembered with the stock 100D and didn't feel stable during hard punches (with suspension on "Low" and adaptive set to Advanced - firm, firm). I thought maybe this was just normal behavior for the performance models since they have so much power. This was my first time driving a Performance model.

I had to take the Raven in to the SC to get the hood panel aligned. I casually mentioned that I felt the car, when parked with suspension in low sat higher than what I remember my 100D did stock. I didn't do any formal measurements before the SC visit but I remember I could fit about 3 1/2 fingers between tire and fender on the front with the car parked in low. After the SC visit, I can now fit about 2 1/2 fingers, so they definitely lowered it. The back looks lower too.

The crazy nose pop up during launches and from standstills is gone. Feels as planted as the 100D with UP brackets on low. I'm guessing this has a lot to do with the adaptive suspension too since the Raven didn't need aftermarket lowering. The car feels completely planted during launches too now. It also felt smoother over the same bumps I drive over daily and I tried a few different suspension settings.

This could be a few things. Since its a new car, maybe it was not set properly from the factory and/or the factory set it to 21"s instead of the 19's it came with.

The MCU is set at 21" in the Wheel setting, but I think thats just beaus there isn't a 20" option. Again, there are no wheels on any of the car Avatars on the MCU and the dash screen, and this is the biggest reason I believe they have set it exactly for 20", and also the fact they told me they did and that they couldn't get the wheels to show on the avatar unless they chose 21" or 19".

Anyways, I thought I would pass along what I found. My car could be a one off with a crazy high incorrect setting from the factor and thats why I'm noticing such big improvements.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
No problem with the questions. I'll try to provide more details. Also, @Ostrichsak could be right about the info I was given being inaccurate. Just trying to share my impressions and maybe find out if anyone else had this done.

the car sitting a tad bit lower resolved a squirrelly steering wheel --> absolutely, but maybe I didn't describe it right. Heres some background to help describe what I noticed.

I traded in my 2017 100D for a 2020 Raven Performance about 3 weeks ago. I owned the 100D for 3 years and was very familiar with how it drove (same crazy commute). When I first got the 100D, during hard accelerations (always with the air suspension in low), I would get this "squirrelly steering wheel feel". Its the feeling of the front end rising higher than the back when you slam on the gas, and when that happens, the steering feels loose because the front end isn't as planted to the ground. I had the UP lowering brackets installed on the 100D and the car handled incredible, sat super low, and the front end no longer popped up during hard accelerations and so the steering wheel felt solid. Problem was the UPs made the car too low for Chicago and so I had them removed and had lowering links installed, but not as low, around 1/2" drop. The loose wheel feel came back and the front end popped up higher than with the UP brackets. It was better than stock though, but still not planted enough for my linking. I had them lower it to 0.8 inches and that was the perfect mix of not sitting too low and good handling.

When I got the Raven, I had my UP-03's added day one. 245/40/20 all around and set the MCU to 21" wheels. On the Raven the front end popped up even higher than what I remembered with the stock 100D and didn't feel stable during hard punches (with suspension on "Low" and adaptive set to Advanced - firm, firm). I thought maybe this was just normal behavior for the performance models since they have so much power. This was my first time driving a Performance model.

I had to take the Raven in to the SC to get the hood panel aligned. I casually mentioned that I felt the car, when parked with suspension in low sat higher than what I remember my 100D did stock. I didn't do any formal measurements before the SC visit but I remember I could fit about 3 1/2 fingers between tire and fender on the front with the car parked in low. After the SC visit, I can now fit about 2 1/2 fingers, so they definitely lowered it. The back looks lower too.

The crazy nose pop up during launches and from standstills is gone. Feels as planted as the 100D with UP brackets on low. I'm guessing this has a lot to do with the adaptive suspension too since the Raven didn't need aftermarket lowering. The car feels completely planted during launches too now. It also felt smoother over the same bumps I drive over daily and I tried a few different suspension settings.

This could be a few things. Since its a new car, maybe it was not set properly from the factory and/or the factory set it to 21"s instead of the 19's it came with.

The MCU is set at 21" in the Wheel setting, but I think thats just beaus there isn't a 20" option. Again, there are no wheels on any of the car Avatars on the MCU and the dash screen, and this is the biggest reason I believe they have set it exactly for 20", and also the fact they told me they did and that they couldn't get the wheels to show on the avatar unless they chose 21" or 19".

Anyways, I thought I would pass along what I found. My car could be a one off with a crazy high incorrect setting from the factor and thats why I'm noticing such big improvements.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for the details! Sounds like the tech actually changed the parameter for what Low equates to vs just setting the wheel cfg to 20”.
Would be good to see if the height changes if you switch back to 19”, but understand you don’t want to risk losing the 20” setting since you can’t get back to it. If it sits and handles the way you like now, don’t mess with it... ;)
 
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View attachment 619539 View attachment 619540 SnakeDoctorTD/Collindo1990....Got my wheels yesterday and tried test fitting the rear(20x11 et28). Wheels rub on inside liner. Did you guys cut liner to make it fit? Thanks for your knowledge and help.

You can cut the liner, but first try poking a couple holes in it and try to zip tie it back to something behind it.

FYI, I too have wheels that are suuuper close to the strut tower, and I'm trying to see if I can rectify that with the EV Tuning camber arms. My hope is that when I adjust the camber more neutral, it pulls the top of the wheel away from the strut a bit. More to come on that next week.

when car is lifted, the wheel will camber inwards making it touch the liner.
Once on the ground, wheels will clear.

When the car is lifted, the BOTTOM of the wheel cambers inwards (positive camber), and camber becomes more negative as you drop it down. On my car, the wheels rubbed the fender liner when in low, but easily clear it in very high
 
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