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Solar Panels UK - is it worth it?

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Technically the gas -is- broken. This is the great realisation.

Also, induction is amazing. Cooks as well as gas, as easy as the counter top to keep clean. 3 years later mine still looks like new, no need for fancy cleaning rituals like older electric ceramic hobs.

as I was writing it I was thinking the same thing :)

we found after buying a table top portable induction that some of our cookware doesn't work. We'll need a new wok at least but thats fine. Also I need an electrician to check as we have a 32A circuit, apparantly you can apply diversity to cooking so we can probably manage a fairly full fat induction hob as it won't clash with the oven too much, but I may need to swap the socket behind the oven to a dual, and wire the oven directly

My wife will appreciate one more wipe clean surface she can get the white vinegar spray onto :p
 
Love our induction hob.

I liked showing our Kids this trick...

20210517_211412.jpg


Before telling them not to try it on anything else 😀

It also summarises my cooking skills.
 
I have another problem(s) with potential conversion to induction hob from gas:
- Granite counter top. Did you know that SAME size induction hob needs different cut out than gas? let's say 80 x 60 cm Induction hob needs bigger cut out than same size gas? it is a bit tricky-ish when countertop is stone/granite...
- I have no power lead for the induction hob (I think...). And you need hefty one.
- some sites say that you cannot have double over below the induction hob...
 
I have another problem(s) with potential conversion to induction hob from gas:
- Granite counter top. Did you know that SAME size induction hob needs different cut out than gas? let's say 80 x 60 cm Induction hob needs bigger cut out than same size gas? it is a bit tricky-ish when countertop is stone/granite...
- I have no power lead for the induction hob (I think...). And you need hefty one.
- some sites say that you cannot have double over below the induction hob...

Can't speak for all hobs, but ours runs off it's own fused 32amp circuit. Since part of sits below the surface, I can see why ovens would be problematic. Also as there are cooling fans there, again, would need some free space (and ideally cool space) below it.
 
Can't speak for all hobs, but ours runs off it's own fused 32amp circuit. Since part of sits below the surface, I can see why ovens would be problematic. Also as there are cooling fans there, again, would need some free space (and ideally cool space) below it.

surely they've thought of this. Lots of people have ovens under the hob so they'd be designed based on industry standard thicknesses? Gas hobs are usually sunken into the surface a little.

My main thinking is 'can I just order through AO with professional fitting' as they're registered gas safe etc and will remove and cap off and wire in - but at what point does it need more than that? They must do hundreds so I'm sure they're aware of the wrinkles they may come across? Just don't fancy having to hire in separate gas and leccy with potential gaps between the two and not having a cooking surface for a while.

Athough wife is out for a few weeks at her parents so maybe an opportunity as I'm living off boxes from teh freezer anyway
 
I have another problem(s) with potential conversion to induction hob from gas:
- Granite counter top. Did you know that SAME size induction hob needs different cut out than gas? let's say 80 x 60 cm Induction hob needs bigger cut out than same size gas? it is a bit tricky-ish when countertop is stone/granite...
- I have no power lead for the induction hob (I think...). And you need hefty one.
- some sites say that you cannot have double over below the induction hob...
Mine fitted in an old gas cutout fine in a temp kitchen while some building work was happening, dropped in fine.

Did and do have dedicated 32a spur for it, and it does use all of it. Mine could take a 3 phase supply to enable more rings on full power for longer. Worth talking to a sparky up front. Once the spur is there the AO guys will wire in happily, but if they turn up and you present a 3 pin socket to them they won't touch it.
 
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we found after buying a table top portable induction that some of our cookware doesn't work.
I have as little story about that...

A few years ago we were changing over to an induction hob and my wife took the opportunity to replace much of our older Alu, Cu or non-magnetic SS cookware which wasn't going to work.

We went to the nearby Designer outlet & checking with a small but extremely powerful magnet (used before my retirement) she purchased a frying pan from the supermarket. She then sent me off to the Le Creuset store to buy a couple of saucepans...

The store was very busy & near the door was a display of reducing diameter pans, it was higher than head height but as I brushed by the magnet in my coat pocket caused the whole lot to crash to the floor. Everything and everybody stopped doing what they were doing and stared.

I was now standing by the door with a medium sized saucepan hanging from the edge of my coat :mad:

The silence was broken by the store manager saying "that's a helluva way to go shoplifting!"



...as you were folks, now back to solar panels...
 
Mine fitted in an old gas cutout fine in a temp kitchen while some building work was happening, dropped in fine.

Did and do have dedicated 32a spur for it, and it does use all of it. Mine could take a 3 phase supply to enable more rings on full power for longer. Worth talking to a sparky up front. Once the spur is there the AO guys will wire in happily, but if they turn up and you present a 3 pin socket to them they won't touch it.
no, I do not. and that's a bummer. some extensive Electrical work needs to be done.. as well I think this might be some plaster works.. etc. not that easy.

by the way - our will not fit as I already checkd.
We have odd shaped 6 burner gas hob.
 
you can also get plug in ones, they just won't be super ultra turbo. Probably still heat a pan of water as fast as gas and run a bunch of pans on lower powers fine. I just happen to have a 32A spur so makes sense to try and use it to give a bit more oomph (cue me turning everything down to avoid killing the battery..)
 
I think I’ve nailed my set up. Famous last words 😂

Since swapping from OVO, Octopus IO has been charging my car perfectly so far using 26A selected in the car. Hitting the target every time. So this is working flawlessly; Some/ any of the excess solar battery energy stored at the end of the day (at 23:30 or later) is going into the car, down to a reserve percentage I set for the batteries on each GivEnergy inverter (10% right now) for each battery pair. Then when they hit that limit all the rest is coming from the grid at 7.5p (if needed - hasn’t been so far).

6kW is the max draw for the car whilst charging (at 26A) with about 2-500w background load and 1kW extra spare available for any spikes (whilst the car is actually charging) (otherwise it’s) up to the max of 7.4kW from the 2 battery inverters. The charging on IO seems to be biased towards the end of the 6hr period, so that’s preferable. I think.

Perfect way to automatically use up all the solar generated, have a buffer till sun-up and add any extra if necessary at cheap rate. And any high house demand (if any) over that is at cheap rate also.

I’ll up my reserve battery percentage in the app slowly each month as we get more towards winter, eventually to 100% as I’m fairly certain I won’t last the whole day on battery alone then.

You can get very granular with forecasts, automation, etc, to eke out the last penny and all credit for doing that but for me I haven’t got the time. I will charge slightly over what I might need for the day (as an insurance policy) and accept that very occasionally I may export a kW or two (or 10!) that cost me 7.5p for 4p and take the 3.5p loss on the rare occasion - it’s peanuts. Getting it wrong and buying kWs at 31p is not peanuts though. So I’ll err on the side of caution and not fret about any export.

I’ve got some loft insulation to implement and a few other changes (less electric underfloor Mat usage, somehow. Probably add a couple of rads to replace). Maybe ditch the gas?

Loving this IO tariff with my GivEnergy setup.

Spent £2 this month (July) on electricity. Plus the standing charge.

Going on the long journey from “I think I want Solar panels”, through the entire maze of requirements and options, installers, DNO, to fully operational, to being mesmerised watching the electrons flying around on the app has been a trip.

I’m just flabbergasted by the performance of the panels of today. I’m seeing full cloud cover, rain and 2kW plus being generated. They Start production at 1w 20mins before sun up, it’s just unbelievable how good they are these days. Obviously the no cloud, full sun day is better but Wow. Impressed. Never thought they’d work in those conditions at all. Thought they’d shut down completely.
All the looking at panel specs, fretting over minimum start-up voltages, clipping, orientation, G99 approval, was a non issue luckily.

This is all with the help of everyone on this forum. So thank you one and all for all your very helpful contributions. To help me through the maze. 👏

So, to re-iterate the answer to the OP - YES Solar panels are definitely worth it in the UK.

(With the caveat of getting a proper, sufficiently suitable solar and battery system installed and and being on a decent tariff.)

Thanks again one and all and may the sun shine on your roof.
 
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is that actually £2 on import or more on import offset by some export? Still spending a quid a day here.
£2 a month just on import for July. That was at the old OVO rate of 30p ish. Which is the same as peak IO rates now.

I only just received my MCS certificate and applied to Octopus for the SEG yesterday. Think it takes a couple of months to activate. So getting nothing paid for export at the moment.

I’m seeing about 0.2 to 0.3 import per day typically. A quid a day sounds like a lot of import. Can you see why and when that’s happening? Is it a constant drain all day or just at a certain time?

IMG_6944.jpeg


All my data has gone from the OVO app now, since I left them but I got a couple of screenshots before and after installation. Would have been less than 8p that day if I wasn’t messing about trying to put some in the car at full rate and had dialled down the car charging rate to 26A.
I thought there was no data populated at first until I saw the tiny bit on the bottom RHS !

Before….

IMG_6684.png


And After….

IMG_6685.png
 
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I'm nowhere near that sort of cost level... cost prediction for this month is £70 inc gas on octopus tracker, perhaps a few quid more.

Every day costs a few quid.

Basic routine is charge cars and battery during the cheap period and then run the house off solar and battery during the day. Rinse and repeat. So my net use each day is almost always at 7.5p per unit... but my average over the past couple of weeks is 21kWh per day of import (£1.16 + SC).

In my situation, with the weather as it has been, I'd say skip solar and get batteries.
 
we're being picky about little things now but surely the inverter could set its 'balance point' for home import/export to err on the side of export. if its exporting 30w constantly (from battery or solar) that'd cover the small load for the inverter itself along with home load.
 
we're being picky about little things now but surely the inverter could set its 'balance point' for home import/export to err on the side of export. if its exporting 30w constantly (from battery or solar) that'd cover the small load for the inverter itself along with home load.
could be, but I think the issue is that batteries have some response/ramping lag and inverter will still need to sync with grid in order to pull from it on demand.

maybe if I set inverter to off-grid mode, then it would pull 0.