Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Someone from Tesla diagnostics called me about this today. Weird thing is I don’t know how they knew I was having the problem because I never reported it to them. I described the issue - system seemed to lack some bass, and if you fade to the rear speakers it was blatantly obvious there was no bass at all, sounded like a transistor radio. But I couldn’t replicate it today. He was very interested in getting a time stamp from me from right when it happens. He said if it happens again to please note the time, contact him, and use the bug report voice feature. So I encourage anyone experiencing this to use that feature right when it happens, or to note the exact time and contact Tesla. He also wanted info regarding whether a reset temporarily fixes the issue.
Bug reported this morning on my end....will continue to send.
 
Having the same issue. There is very little bass after 46.2 update from 42.4. I did a reset and also set all equalizer settings to low then back up and it seemed to help a little bit that is probably in my head. I was hoping the update would give more power to bad since others were having issues but unfortunately it made it worse.
 
Did a bunch of songs this morning and I feel the bass is definitely back, but I don't have good acoustic memory to know whether its the same as it was originally but definitely stronger than when I first noticed the issue. Since I got 46.2 this morning, I can say there was no volume difference from 44.2 to 46.2.
 
Here's a wild ass guess as to a possible cause:
The Model 3 doesn't have "fuses", it has computer controlled switches (aka transistors) and current sensors. So it's possible the system is cutting power to the sub's amp, either due to an actual over current detection, or a software bug. Or possibly a mixture of both...at some point over current is detected and the power is cut, but it isn't turned back on until some other event (reboot, software update).

That could also explain why some have this issue (their choice of music and volume levels trips the "fuse"), and some don't.

Is there a way to tell if the sub's amplifier is getting power?
 
I’m not having it as drastically as I once was (when I would move the fader to the rear speakers and it would sound like a transistor radio with no bass AT ALL).

But... I still think something is going on. When I fade to the rear speakers, it is nowhere near as full sounding as the front. I think the woofers in front are just key to the overall sound, and the rear speakers + sub just cannot match it and probably aren’t supposed to.

The sound system is fine, but it’s not amazing. The Dynaudio system in my 2010 GTI was far better — clearer, richer, smoother, punched harder, and had way more volume on tap before approaching any distortion whatsoever.
 
Folks, just an FYI in case you missed it previously. The "fader" trick doesn't work. For whatever reason fading to the back speakers removes the sub entirely. Keep it in the middle balance and open your trunk and feel the sub-woofer enclosure. Do you feel it vibrating? Do you feel nothing?

At first I felt nothing, like the sub wasn't even on. Then the other day it sprung back to life. Even now with the sub back the "fader" trick doesn't work though. Whatever genius that wrote their EQ system has it so the trunk speaker is turned off when you fade to the rear channels. I've been putting in systems myself into cars since 1991 and have never seen that behavior ever.
 
Spent my lunch break on the phone with Tesla about this today. They’re scheduling a Mobile Service Tech visit to check my mic since I do have the intermittent issues with Voice Control and occasional echo sounds that people hear on their end when they call me, plus the sound system issue (which still hasn’t improved to how it sounded on delivery. I don’t anticipate a visit for awhile as the Techs only come over to the Island twice/month.
 
So I’m firmly in the camp of finding that the problem comes and goes. I can say that 46.2 seemed to help a bit, but I still never really noticed any bass if the balance was set all the way to the rear.

I had a mobile service visit for an unrelated issue this morning and he pushed 48.1. Playing starboy with with balance all the way to the back has the subwoofer BUMPING. Full blown trunk rattling bass from the sub. I’m unsure if this is because of the update or a side affect of the car being powered off or rebooted, but I’ll keep my ear on it. It definitely wasn’t this good on 46.2 when I thought it had gotten better.

I also texted the tech to see if any other reports of stereo issues were common recently. I’ll post what he says when he replies.
 
Last edited:
  • Informative
Reactions: PoitNarf
So I’m firmly in the camp of finding that the problem comes and goes. I can say that 46.2 seemed to help a bit, but I still never really noticed any bass if the balance was set all the way to the rear.

I had a mobile service visit for an unrelated issue this morning and he pushed 48.1. Playing starboy with with balance all the way to the back has the subwoofer BUMPING. Full blown trunk rattling bass from the sub. I’m unsure if this is because of the update or a side affect of the car being powered off or rebooted, but I’ll keep my ear on it. It definitely wasn’t this good on 46.2 when I thought it had gotten better.

I also texted the tech to see if any other reports of stereo issues were common recently. I’ll post what he says when he replies.


I am wondering if some of these issues are associated with the audio bit rate and connection issues. The audio is a streaming service. I know Elon mentioned a while ago that the cell service for the cars was costing a lot. Maybe in addition to charging they throttled the bit rate so the cars use less data in one of the "bug fix" updates? Has anyone asked this question?
 
Here's a wild ass guess as to a possible cause:
The Model 3 doesn't have "fuses", it has computer controlled switches (aka transistors) and current sensors. So it's possible the system is cutting power to the sub's amp, either due to an actual over current detection, or a software bug. Or possibly a mixture of both...at some point over current is detected and the power is cut, but it isn't turned back on until some other event (reboot, software update).

That could also explain why some have this issue (their choice of music and volume levels trips the "fuse"), and some don't.

Is there a way to tell if the sub's amplifier is getting power?

I can assure you this is not it, as that same amp powers all the other speakers (except the dash [which are only 4" speakers] and tweeters) too. So if that amp were to cut out, you'd definitely know.
 
I am wondering if some of these issues are associated with the audio bit rate and connection issues. The audio is a streaming service. I know Elon mentioned a while ago that the cell service for the cars was costing a lot. Maybe in addition to charging they throttled the bit rate so the cars use less data in one of the "bug fix" updates? Has anyone asked this question?

In my car the condition is present in all media formats, Bluetooth, FM, and streaming.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PoitNarf