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Standard range Model y actual range
- Thread starter keith4909
- Start date
I live in Sf Bay Area and stay in Bay Area 99% of time. The epa range says 244 but what should I expect realistically? If the range is way off I may need to change my order to the long range dual. Wouldn’t mind a faster car too.. Any info would be great?
Range is king. It is the most important spec on a BEV. Second is range. Third is range. Fourth is charging speed. Assume you will only get 75% of the advertised range - could be less - especially in the cold. At 244 miles that could mean @ 180 miles. Of course you will not really want to go below 50 miles. So now you are down to 130 miles. Beg, borrow and steal to get the LR - UNLESS you truly do not plan on driving over 100 miles in any given day.
I can almost get the EPA range if I drive like a granny on a flat road. However normal driving, hills, wind, stopping/starting etc. result in 10-20% less than EPA. With an EPA 306 mile full charge I would not plan on driving more than 200 miles to an unknown charging site (want to recharge with at least 50 miles left, not 0).
![angus[Y]oung](/tmc/data/avatars/l/141/141264.jpg?1620160343){kind=avatar}
angus[Y]oung
Active Member
@Seanprovost this is not unlike with gas-powered cars, where one rarely ever sees the number on the window sticker without making a very careful effort to drive economically while also under other ideal circumstances. These ratings are more usable as a way to compare one vehicle to another rather than as an actual expected outcome, as they are tested under as level of a playing field as possible.
Bear in mind that for day to day use, you will probably want to set your charging limit to between 80 and 90% of a full battery, so straight away without any other factors you'll take a hit from the rated range just by not charging to 100%. Charging to 100% occasionally for road-trips is fine but not encouraged for daily use. And then you get the other factors as noted, such as weather, elevation changes, HVAC usage to warm or cool you and the batteries, speed, and so on. Bear in mind with the "speed" component that it works a bit backward to gas-powered cars: EVs get better economy at slower speeds, meaning they work better in city driving than when driven fast on the highway, the opposite to gas cars.
angus[Y]oung
Active Member
Sorry one other important consideration is charging speed when you do need to top up at a supercharger. The battery will charge fastest when it's at a low SOC (state of charge--when you don't have a lot of juice left), and gradually get slower as it fills up, to protect the battery. Let's say you've got 50 miles of range left in the "tank" and need to add 100 miles for the next leg of your trip. Because 100 miles is a larger percentage of 244 miles (SR) than it is of 326 (LR), that 100 miles will likely take longer to charge in the SR than the LR.
RichAZ/CapeCod
Member
Taken from my book's chapter: Some Things You Should Know About EVs (I like quoting me...)
I’d like to discuss how you ought to look at EV range claims made by the various manufacturers. The significance in regard miles claimed is very much dependent on how you intend to use the vehicle. Having said that I’d like to offer a rough guide on how to evaluate the auto makers range claims, which I suggest should be practically thought of (most generally) as being approximately 2/3rds of the total asserted by them.
Batteries (the EV traction battery under discussion here) are kept healthiest, and have the longest possible lifespan, if their state of charge (SOC) is most often kept between 20% on the low end and 80% on the high end. Understand, you will not destroy the battery if, when traveling long distance, you fully charge up your EV to 100% at the start of each day. And the EV will not disintegrate if you permit the charge level to creep down to 3% or 4% (some folks do just that when traveling in their EVs). But it remains true that to the extent possible, and for maximum battery longevity, you should keep your EV traction battery between the levels I have just suggested.
So, if you follow the 20%~80% rule your 300 mile range EV has just had its range reduced by 20%. That’s brought your car’s useful daily range now down to around 240 miles.
OK, it’s warm out, or cold out. You, being human, like to be comfortable. On goes the air conditioner or the car’s heater. And there goes another 5% of your traction battery’s available energy. Let us call it a reduction of 20 miles. You are now seeing 220 on the GOM and haven’t even gone anywhere!!
Did I mention it’s raining? Well, it is. Another 5% loss in range will be seen (this amount of reduction in range is just a wild guess on my part. Whatever reduction you will see will be due to an increase in rolling resistance, so your speed plays an important part in this equation.). Your EV is now down to a one-way range of 210 miles.
Hey, lead-foot, I see you’re doing 75 mph. Yeah, I know you want to get to where you’re going before the month is out, but keep in mind the faster you go the more rapidly you will deplete the car’s traction battery (see the speed/range graph). Your EV is now down to about 180 miles of range.
Anyway, this is why I suggest, at least for an EV intended for distance traveling, you should not consider a vehicle that has less than an EPA tested range of 300 miles. 400 miles would be better...
Please do keep in mind that which I stated earlier; my Bolt with a rated range of 238 miles shows it can travel over 300 miles under the right set of circumstances. So, when you get down to it, an EVs range really comes down to, “it all depends.”
***
I’d like to discuss how you ought to look at EV range claims made by the various manufacturers. The significance in regard miles claimed is very much dependent on how you intend to use the vehicle. Having said that I’d like to offer a rough guide on how to evaluate the auto makers range claims, which I suggest should be practically thought of (most generally) as being approximately 2/3rds of the total asserted by them.
Batteries (the EV traction battery under discussion here) are kept healthiest, and have the longest possible lifespan, if their state of charge (SOC) is most often kept between 20% on the low end and 80% on the high end. Understand, you will not destroy the battery if, when traveling long distance, you fully charge up your EV to 100% at the start of each day. And the EV will not disintegrate if you permit the charge level to creep down to 3% or 4% (some folks do just that when traveling in their EVs). But it remains true that to the extent possible, and for maximum battery longevity, you should keep your EV traction battery between the levels I have just suggested.
So, if you follow the 20%~80% rule your 300 mile range EV has just had its range reduced by 20%. That’s brought your car’s useful daily range now down to around 240 miles.
OK, it’s warm out, or cold out. You, being human, like to be comfortable. On goes the air conditioner or the car’s heater. And there goes another 5% of your traction battery’s available energy. Let us call it a reduction of 20 miles. You are now seeing 220 on the GOM and haven’t even gone anywhere!!
Did I mention it’s raining? Well, it is. Another 5% loss in range will be seen (this amount of reduction in range is just a wild guess on my part. Whatever reduction you will see will be due to an increase in rolling resistance, so your speed plays an important part in this equation.). Your EV is now down to a one-way range of 210 miles.
Hey, lead-foot, I see you’re doing 75 mph. Yeah, I know you want to get to where you’re going before the month is out, but keep in mind the faster you go the more rapidly you will deplete the car’s traction battery (see the speed/range graph). Your EV is now down to about 180 miles of range.
Anyway, this is why I suggest, at least for an EV intended for distance traveling, you should not consider a vehicle that has less than an EPA tested range of 300 miles. 400 miles would be better...
Please do keep in mind that which I stated earlier; my Bolt with a rated range of 238 miles shows it can travel over 300 miles under the right set of circumstances. So, when you get down to it, an EVs range really comes down to, “it all depends.”
I mean, there are literally no Teslas in the Bay Area with owners that you can actually talk to. I wonder if people will ever start posting reviews of Teslas on YouTube..
/SARCASM
/SARCASM
I mean, there are literally no Teslas in the Bay Area with owners that you can actually talk to. I wonder if people will ever start posting reviews of Teslas on YouTube..
/SARCASM
What is YouTube?
RichAZ/CapeCod
Member
If you take off 20% from the top end of the charge and 20% from the bottom end of the charge wouldn't that leave just 60%? The usable range when following the 80/20 rule would be 180 miles.
As a matter of fact a client of mine today owns the short range rwd model y and we got to talking. He said the range is way off. He did a trip from Alameda to Monterey which he said was 110 miles and it used I think he said 150 maybe even more. I run ac,listen to music loud and would use sentry often. My kids also like me punching it. I also travel from Oakland to Jackson ca often and being in the foothills there is quite a bit of elevation. Our 14 MS 60kw on a full charge leaving with 189 range gets me up there with like 20 left. I usually drive 75/80 on highway though. I actually decide just to change my order since I only placed it a few days ago to the long range dual motors. Waiting on confirmation from my sales rep but I assume it won’t be an issue. I also like the fact the on board charge for Level 2 charging is higher. 7.7kw for the short range is too slow for me. 11kw for long range. My esve cranks out 10kw. Plus the dual motor is fast and I have a heavy foot so it will burn through range faster than most. Thank you everyone for all the info
In my SR+ Model 3, I drove from Simi Valley, CA to Barstow, CA Supercharger.
144 miles there. Started with 217 miles (100%) on my guessometer. Made it to the charger with 43 miles remaining.
I used 174 miles to go 144 miles driving average ~70 mph ans s AC was on 2. Had my Dad with me and 100 pounds of rims in the trunk. And my actual 19" rims are more open so more drag. My car is also lowered 1 inch so slightly negates some loss of range from rims.
So basically I was looking to get around 180 *real miles on that charge when my car is rated at *240 miles EPA.
Wasn't bad but obviously If I had more range it would have better. I could have drove faster as most people were driving 80+ if I had a long range for example. My car has never seen 240 miles and never will lol
SR is great but I would never get it again or recommend it tbh. Dual Motor is what I would recommend. Such a difference. But at least with the Y with the premium sound is standard, but still dual motor or nothing!
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You will not regret changing to the dual motor.
ratsbew
Active Member
I'm one of the few who gets nearly 100% EPA...you know, by not breaking the law and driving the speed limit...
That’s great in areas with low speed limits. Many states have speed limits of 70 to 80 MPH, with some toll roads in Texas as high as 85. You wouldn’t be anywhere close to EPA at those speeds.
Winter is also a challenge if you’re one of those people who enjoys cabin heat. EPA is possible if you can do without, but it’s not very pleasant.
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