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Subwoofer Options for Model S (standard Audio)

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JL's VXi line all have integrated DSPs. Since you already have a sub amp, however, I would get an amp/dsp that allows you to output a corrected signal to another amp. Audison's Prima amps with DSP have that option, but I don't think they're the only game in town.

That said, if you're never going to upgrade the front speakers, the LC2i Pro will be just fine for the sub - no need to spend big dollars for a DSP just to tweak a sub's signal, IMO. However, if you do ever plan to upgrade the front speakers, an amp/DSP combo will be very nice to have. It is a pretty slippery slope.
 
JL's VXi line all have integrated DSPs. Since you already have a sub amp, however, I would get an amp/dsp that allows you to output a corrected signal to another amp. Audison's Prima amps with DSP have that option, but I don't think they're the only game in town.

That said, if you're never going to upgrade the front speakers, the LC2i Pro will be just fine for the sub - no need to spend big dollars for a DSP just to tweak a sub's signal, IMO. However, if you do ever plan to upgrade the front speakers, an amp/DSP combo will be very nice to have. It is a pretty slippery slope.
After your post I went back and looked at my Sony amp (haven't installed yet) and it has speaker level inputs (wire harness) and audio sensing which allows me to tap signal from front speakers going to amp. I do not need to install the LC2i. I didn't recognize my amp had this capability. I don't think I will ever upgrade door speakers as I am only looking for more base. Thanks again.
 
L2Ci does more than take speaker level inputs - it also provides signal correction. The stock system rolls off low frequencies which you'll want to "put back" via external EQ/DSP. The bass boost option on the amp might be enough to get by.
I didn't need much help from amp's bass boost as my speaker and enclosure satisfied my bass desire (lol). Thanks again.
 
another here with the NVX kit. Came with 100% of everything I needed for a very clean and fairly easy, install. It actually has more power than I can use, as I keep my control knob in the cabin, on about 50% at most. Depending on song (streaming services are convenient, but can really vary the songs quality with various compression ratios, etc) and the gain on the amp at maybe 15-20% of its full range. And the look is fully stock when done.
Where did you mount your control knob?
 
Should you be willing to spend $1800 to $2100 i assure you will not be disappointed going this route (2015 P90DL with premium sound 8” sub included) I purchased the NVX box with 10” sub only, replaced the sub with JL’s 10W3v3D4 , powered by JL XD600/1, LC2 converter and bass knob. Between the stock 8” and new 10” you can feel cabin air move if desired. This coming from a 50yr old who in his 20’s and 30’s had competition systems in cars and boat. Keeping the stock look with a stealth box, amp hidden under box leaving entire cabin usable and not worried about the wife damaging the grille covered Sub….
 

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L2Ci does more than take speaker level inputs - it also provides signal correction. The stock system rolls off low frequencies which you'll want to "put back" via external EQ/DSP. The bass boost option on the amp might be enough to get by.
I’m hoping you or someone else can help me on this. I have a 2015 model s with ultra high fidelity sound. The videos I’ve seen on YouTube help somewhat and confuse me somewhat. Basically I’m looking to add 2 to 4 subs with an lc2i. I’m confused on where to tap the signal from. The videos on YouTube say if you have ultra high fidelity to use the subwoofer out blue blue/black connections. I don’t understand the benefit of doing this versus just connecting to the white white/black front left and grey grey/black for front right and running these connections directly to the lc2i, then running that signal to the amp.
Am I missing something ?
 
Tapping at the subwoofer is easier. I'm also not sure if the front channels will have a heavier crossover applied on the UHFS system since the sub should technically take care of the lower frequencies. In theory the L2Ci should be able to correct for that, but it's always better to have to correct as little as possible.
 
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Tapping at the subwoofer is easier. I'm also not sure if the front channels will have a heavier crossover applied on the UHFS system since the sub should technically take care of the lower frequencies. In theory the L2Ci should be able to correct for that, but it's always better to have to correct as little as possible.
Ok so let me ask another question. If I tap into the subwoofer out as many suggest I still need 4 wires to power my left and right inputs on the lc2i. So I’m assuming your just run 2 wires from each positive and 2 from each negative on the subwoofer out? Do you then take these and feed into the positive for left and right and negative for left and right on lc2i? Thanks for your responses!2E567389-B6A8-4475-9561-DC6D95A72E89.jpeg
 
I think I shelled out $600 to install a couple of amps, a DSP which included a shop-provided wiring kit and mounting midranges and tweeters that I provided. I installed the actual sub myself since it's pretty easy.

I would expect $400 for just the NVX amp/sub. I have installed stereos in every other vehicle I've owned but I outsourced this one and feel it was well worth it.
Hey @ Beatle, thanks for sharing. I'm looking for a DMV area referral to install the NVX sub package on my 2015 MS85 (Base audio). Glad I found this thread