Tell us how is your Roadster Interior holding up???

[slcasner]

Yep, lesson learned - I'm going to be much more careful with the soft top going forward. I've had it drop into the cabin before, but luckily it never hit anything in the past. The pins on the mesh top are more exposed than the soft top so need extra care. I'll chaulk it up to character marks - and try not to add any more!

Be careful also when putting in or taking out the support stays for the soft top. I always put the roll-bar end in first, then the windshield end, to avoid a slip that scratches the CF rollbar cover. My wife managed to make a slip like that and left a nasty scratch. I was able to buff it mostly out. Then I think Tesla Service gave me another scratch, but I can't be positive.

 

[Doug_G]

Be careful also when putting in or taking out the support stays for the soft top. I always put the roll-bar end in first, then the windshield end, to avoid a slip that scratches the CF rollbar cover. My wife managed to make a slip like that and left a nasty scratch. I was able to buff it mostly out. Then I think Tesla Service gave me another scratch, but I can't be positive.

+1. This forum already saved me from making that mistake.

 

[slcasner]

I have Roadster #33 in its original Signature 100 trim with no mods other than replacement of the peeling headlights with the HID lights, sound deadening, installation of OVMS, and my own brake-light-indicator mod. Now 5.5 years old and 30K+ miles. My only problems with the interior were:

• center console knobs that fractured (which I fixed by filling the inside of the knob with epoxy, as Tesla later did, too)
• driver's side plastic door sill that cracked and was replaced twice (under warranty)
• color surface wearing off at one spot low on the driver's seat (see photo)

 

[BillB]

Roadster #244, 5 years old now, 18K miles.

Very minor issues:
1. Cracked sill cover (replaced under warranty)
2. Passenger headrest pad fell off (glued it back on)
3. Console knobs cracked (replaced under warranty)
4. Trim ring around front speaker cracked (replaced under warranty)
5. Starting to get a little squeaky.
6. Plastic pads on the soft top pins breaking/wearing off. I didn't even notice. Tesla replaced the top during annual service.
7. Cut in seat from seat belt buckle. This was the most disturbing. It appears that there wax insufficient padding between the leather upholstery and the seat frame. This was repaired by a local upholstery shop at Tesla's expense (under warranty).

Overall, very satisfied.

 

[Tesla 940]

Tesla Sales Rep

Be careful also when putting in or taking out the support stays for the soft top. I always put the roll-bar end in first, then the windshield end, to avoid a slip that scratches the CF rollbar cover. My wife managed to make a slip like that and left a nasty scratch. I was able to buff it mostly out. Then I think Tesla Service gave me another scratch, but I can't be positive.

Tesla Sales Rep in L.A. specifically told me how to install the support stays and the reason. Saved more than one scratch.

 

[tdelta1000]

I sold #404 a couple of months ago and replaced it with #1453. But I had 28k miles on #404 in almost 5 years and it held up really well, was really surprised how well the alcantara seats held up, looked like new when I sold it.

How often did you drive it?

 

[tdelta1000]

I have Roadster #33 in its original Signature 100 trim with no mods other than replacement of the peeling headlights with the HID lights, sound deadening, installation of OVMS, and my own brake-light-indicator mod. Now 5.5 years old and 30K+ miles. My only problems with the interior were:

• center console knobs that fractured (which I fixed by filling the inside of the knob with epoxy, as Tesla later did, too)
• driver's side plastic door sill that cracked and was replaced twice (under warranty)
• color surface wearing off at one spot low on the driver's seat (see photo)

View attachment 51178

Great to here #33 is aging gracefully. Sounds like everyone is seeing normal use wearing.

 

[tdelta1000]

Has anyone had a an issue with a peeling shift knob?

 

[wiztecy]

The Roadster seats need oil, they're too dry as seen in the pics and wear marks. I had some extra mink and neatsfoot oil and condition my Roadster seats with that. It made the seats more loose and flexible and relieved of the dry stiff characteristic they had. I'll keep applying it to make them even softer and tolerable to wear. An alternative to mink oil is macadamia nut oil which is actually even better for leather, and an alternative to neatsfoot oil is olive oil. Spray on conditioners are not oil and just topical solutions, mostly cleaning. Leather needs oil to preserve them for longevity, and with the Roadster hard/soft top off it dries it out even faster from the sun.

Leather that is soft and flexes will resist wrinkling, discoloring of the dye from sliding/friction, and tears.

 

[tvuolo]

I don't own a Roadster, yet, but I've owned 5 different convertibles over 22 years. I have my top down as often as possible. I've tried just about everything to keep the leather clean and soft. I've found that a good cleaning with saddle soap (or other gentle leather cleaner) using a leather brush is the best way to go. Follow that with Wolfgang Leather Conditioner (or similar). It's a blend of lanolin and mink oil with a UV protectant. I'm not sure how much good the UV protection does, but it definitely makes me feel better about leaving my car in the sun. :smile: I've never tried macadamia nut oil, but I like the Wolfgang product over straight mink oil.

When I bought my latest BMW, the leather was very hard and stiff. I'm pretty sure the previous owner wiped it down with clorox wipes. It took several rounds of cleaning and conditioner over a year to get the leather back to soft and supple. I only clean it 1 or 2 times per year, now. The car is 8 years old with 100K miles and the leather looks brand new. Except for the scratches from when my daughter wore spiked pants in her goth phase. :cursing:

 

[wiztecy]

Thanks for the insight tvuolo. I'm doing another neatsfoot oil soak on my Roadster seats as we speak and its taking it in very well, starting to loosen up well. No longer like cardboard. Going to give a few more applications after tonight until I feel the leather has absorbed a good bit in. I think as long as the seats are well oiled the UV protection isn't needed. I also don't think that much UV protection can be applied topically, it mostly gets worn off anyways from the in and outs. What I do notice is that now my seats are more moist from the oil that they don't act like abrasive sand paper and I slide / rotate in them easier, which will help with not wearing them down. Being dry takes the dye coloring away from the leather as seen in the pics above. Like most Roadsters the seats which have dry leather that needs to be oiled and have to be in essence soaked and putting topical sprays will not do anything useful. Being pliable is key, also like gears, oil is key, without oil and moisture things wear tremendously fast due to friction and lack of elasticity.

 

[tvuolo]

Wiztecy, have you ever fixed a scratch in your leather? I have a couple of scratches on my passenger seat, where the leather is slightly lighter in color. It looks similar to slcasner's photo above. I've been hesitant to try shoe polish, since I don't want any transfer to clothing. But I do my belts and shoes all the time with no transfer, so it might work well. Thoughts?

 

[wiztecy]

Wiztecy, have you ever fixed a scratch in your leather? I have a couple of scratches on my passenger seat, where the leather is slightly lighter in color. It looks similar to slcasner's photo above. I've been hesitant to try shoe polish, since I don't want any transfer to clothing. But I do my belts and shoes all the time with no transfer, so it might work well. Thoughts?

You could experiment with the shoe polish route, if it doesn't work then I'd suggest something like Liquid Leather:
Amazon.com: Liquid Leather Leather Touch Up Recolor Kit

They have a color set and if your color isn't in there you're to mix and match. Just note that in the reviews customers have noted the pigments will dry darker than when mixed. So if you do go this route. Do your color mix, apply it on a piece of paper or cloth, let dry, and see if it matches. If not, make adjustments and try again. Once you got it, go ahead and apply it.

I've also noticed that some of the scratches if they're minor will come out when the leather is oiled and conditioned.