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Tesla Claims Warranty is Void Due to Aftermarket Puddle Lights

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It's already an LED
My understanding is the problem was something like when the light went, it was an open circuit and that caused the window to not come down. But I thought it should still come down if you use the manual opener. But I haven't tried to test that.
 
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Don't use the manual door opener. It will damage the window seal if you do. Maybe not the first time, but over time it will. It does not lower the window!
It does when eveything is working right. They made a change awhile back for that I think. Anyway I have tried it and mine lowers. Try it. Don't even open just pull the handle a bit. Mine drops like the button
 
It's already an LED
My understanding is the problem was something like when the light went, it was an open circuit and that caused the window to not come down. But I thought it should still come down if you use the manual opener. But I haven't tried to test that.
But if it was an open circuit the window motor would not function at all on door opening, right? In my case the window comes down an inch upon opening the door, but then rolls back up before the door is closed. Maybe the light is connected to a sensor that tells the motor whether the door is open or shut, and a dead light screws up the sensor?
 
OP changed the factory electrical element which is part of the electrical circuit in that door including the windows, controls, speakers, doors, side mirrors, etc. If you you alter any of the component in that circuit, you are altering the current, voltage, resistance, etc, which might cause electrical malfunction on other connected parts. it could happen now or one year later.
I don't think Tesla did anything wrong.

For example, some New C8 corvette owners experiencing the driver side mirror crack, and GM found that aftermarket radar detectors that were hooked up to the circuit were the culprit.
Yes, a radar detector can ruin the C8 Corvette's mirrors
 
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OP changed the factory electrical element which is part of the electrical circuit in that door including the windows, controls, speakers, doors, side mirrors, etc. If you you alter any of the component in that circuit, you are altering the current, voltage, resistance, etc, which might cause electrical malfunction on other connected parts. it could happen now or one year later.
I don't think Tesla did anything wrong.

For example, some New C8 corvette owners experiencing the driver side mirror crack, and GM found that aftermarket radar detectors that were hooked up to the circuit were the culprit.
Yes, a radar detector can ruin the C8 Corvette's mirrors
I understand. But in my case I made no changes. The original (OEM) puddle light went out causing the window to malfunction, which almost led to a window breaking. I assume I'm not the first, nor will be the last, person that this happens to, because LEDs do go out and need replacement.

It's not a big deal at the moment. I just need to be careful to roll down the window before I close the door while I wait for mobile service to come around. But I do like to understand how things work and why they're designed the way they are.
 
I understand. But in my case I made no changes. The original (OEM) puddle light went out causing the window to malfunction, which almost led to a window breaking. I assume I'm not the first, nor will be the last, person that this happens to, because LEDs do go out and need replacement.

It's not a big deal at the moment. I just need to be careful to roll down the window before I close the door while I wait for mobile service to come around. But I do like to understand how things work and why they're designed the way they are.
I can not believe a cosmetic light goes out can make the car think the door is closed and rollup window, that is a design flaw
 
Similar to many people I upgraded most of my Model 3 lights to brighter ones (4 door puddle, 2 trunk, glovebox, and center console). The original Tesla lights use 1 LED component and are dim. The aftermarket lights use between 3 and 6 LED components and are much brighter. The ones I bought used 3 LEDs. After a few years, one of my two trunk lights would blink or go out when I opened the trunk. It didn't bother me much and I figured I would replace it later. Six months later, my left rear window started going up and down quickly the same distance it moves when opening the door. I immediately realized that the door light was failing too. When I looked at it, 1 of the 3 LEDs would blink on and off and cause the window to go up and down. The effect of the light going bad didn't surprise me because I'm a Tesla nerd and I knew the effect already. I also know how to close the door safely in case my window were to be stuck in the "up" position, by tucking it under the trim and then gently closing the door. So I decided to replace the door lights with the Tesla OEM ones again because my passengers would probably not know how to handle another aftermarket light failure and could damage my trim or break my glass. By the way, I'm on Tesla's side on this one -- if your aftermarket light fails and causes you to break the glass when you close the door, you should pay for replacement.
 
Similar to many people I upgraded most of my Model 3 lights to brighter ones (4 door puddle, 2 trunk, glovebox, and center console). The original Tesla lights use 1 LED component and are dim. The aftermarket lights use between 3 and 6 LED components and are much brighter. The ones I bought used 3 LEDs. After a few years, one of my two trunk lights would blink or go out when I opened the trunk. It didn't bother me much and I figured I would replace it later. Six months later, my left rear window started going up and down quickly the same distance it moves when opening the door. I immediately realized that the door light was failing too. When I looked at it, 1 of the 3 LEDs would blink on and off and cause the window to go up and down. The effect of the light going bad didn't surprise me because I'm a Tesla nerd and I knew the effect already. I also know how to close the door safely in case my window were to be stuck in the "up" position, by tucking it under the trim and then gently closing the door. So I decided to replace the door lights with the Tesla OEM ones again because my passengers would probably not know how to handle another aftermarket light failure and could damage my trim or break my glass. By the way, I'm on Tesla's side on this one -- if your aftermarket light fails and causes you to break the glass when you close the door, you should pay for replacement.
Yeah, I got all 4 OEM puddle lights replaced with aftermarket logo lights and know full well that if they fail and cause damage, I'll be on the hook for the damages. I'm hoping that in case of puddle light failure, I would notice the problem in time and stop someone from slamming the door and cause damage, but no idea if I'll be able to actually catch it. It seems like a dumbass design but what can you do if you want nicer puddle lights?
 
Yeah, I got all 4 OEM puddle lights replaced with aftermarket logo lights and know full well that if they fail and cause damage, I'll be on the hook for the damages. I'm hoping that in case of puddle light failure, I would notice the problem in time and stop someone from slamming the door and cause damage, but no idea if I'll be able to actually catch it. It seems like a dumbass design but what can you do if you want nicer puddle lights?
This issue could become worse if Tesla decides to reduce the amount of wiring in the vehicle like has been hinted to in the past. With reduced wiring, there will be shared communication wires going to everything that needs it and more things that can possibly be affected with the malfunction of one component.
 
It seems like a dumbass design
"Seems like"? Try "is".
I know this isn't an airplane, but that's just dumb. Nonessential furnishings and accessories should never be able to compromise critical functions, especially with predictable failures. I don't see why a puddle light needs to have a canbus interface or any tie into vehicle systems besides a connection to fused power and a switch (and maybe a relay).
 
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"Seems like"? Try "is".
I know this isn't an airplane, but that's just dumb. Nonessential furnishings and accessories should never be able to compromise critical functions, especially with predictable failures. I don't see why a puddle light needs to have a canbus interface or any tie into vehicle systems besides a connection to fused power and a switch (and maybe a relay).
it is normal light is on canbus, when light out, you get warning on dash, most German car do that. but like you said, it should affect other things. In history, a burn out bulb brought down Eastern airlines Jet L-1011, but completely different story, lol
 
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I've had the Abstract Ocean ones in for about a year & half in my MY. No issues.

I got the tesla logo ones before tesla made AO stop selling them and I like them. But I'd have stuck with the plain old OEM ones except they are useless. Unless it's pitch black you can't even tell they are lit.

I never installed the rear ones as I'm lazy and hardly ever use the rear seat. I probably open the rear door more to toss bike stuff in when the seats are down than any other reason.
 
Just wanted to share... I ordered some. Installed. Shared on a Facebook group. And have been made aware of the broken window / trim brake if one fails... Would have liked to know the risk before, but OK at least this forum and thread confirmed the risk. So thank you guys!
In the end I decided the risk wasn't worth it, even if Tesla logo on the ground was so cool... I returned the item (thanks Amazon)...
 
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