Maybe this will help someone. So after checking all off the HV components, there was nothing left but to dismount the battery. And there was a problem with the connector between battery and the car. Please see the images attached. Replaced the connector and cleaned contacts. Now the car has total resistance of 1600kOhm
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TESLA MODEL S stopped working... CAR MAY NOT RESTART
- Thread starter Qurix
- Start date
Along with a DI error, The service center looked into the Drive Unit first and found that to be the problem. Car seems fine after replacement. My 12V was likely not bad yet, config was incorrect for over a year from replacement. Will have to see if I have record of that from Previous owner.
I'm in a similar position now, started a new thread but this one is fairly on topic. Here's what I experienced, 2015 P85D, 112k miles:
Yesterday the car suddenly warned "Car may not restart, Service required" while driving around town. I shut it down and researched. The car restarted fine and drove it home. The error asserted at least a dozen more times on the drive home, however almost never on the highway.
Next day, the car won't present door handles. Only unlocks frunk / trunk and the IC / MCU don't power up. I jump start the car and everything eventually comes on line with a multitude of errors. No errors pertaining to low 12V battery. This time, the car limits acceleration and no regen on the drive into service.
I dropped the car at service and was given a loaner. Fingers crossed its covered under warranty and lands me a new battery or DU.
Errors reported: BMS_w035_SW, BMS_u008, BMS_w172_SW_Drive_Iso, GTW_w017, 018, 157
Any idea? I order hv-contactors already, but delivery takes about month.
12v battery voltage was about 13v, when this problem started with cautions, and regeneration stopped working.
I reset all ecu’s but this doesn’t help.
I have t-diag software.
12v battery voltage was about 13v, when this problem started with cautions, and regeneration stopped working.
I reset all ecu’s but this doesn’t help.
I have t-diag software.
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I am battling about the same issues.
I tested the dc-dc converter externally at the connectors for blown 40 amp fuses. Seemed to all check out. The 13.4 volt voltage was present at the negative and positive coming off the dc-dc.
I'm not sure what the BMS_ f027 warning is or the Dl_u014. Anyone else clue me in?
The AC was working but the heat (PTC) I am unsure. The interior blower was working but surging and then quit altogether which now leads me to go back and retest dc-dc fuses...
Ok, interior blower motor back to working but it somehow feels like a draining battery issue even though I have 13+ volt power off from dc-dc but tonight no ac compressor or heat and it doesn't like running the interior fan very long
Car out of warranty they say. It's a 2012 S 85.
I tested the dc-dc converter externally at the connectors for blown 40 amp fuses. Seemed to all check out. The 13.4 volt voltage was present at the negative and positive coming off the dc-dc.
I'm not sure what the BMS_ f027 warning is or the Dl_u014. Anyone else clue me in?
The AC was working but the heat (PTC) I am unsure. The interior blower was working but surging and then quit altogether which now leads me to go back and retest dc-dc fuses...
Ok, interior blower motor back to working but it somehow feels like a draining battery issue even though I have 13+ volt power off from dc-dc but tonight no ac compressor or heat and it doesn't like running the interior fan very long
Car out of warranty they say. It's a 2012 S 85.
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That's interesting EvoForce as I am having what appears to be a similar issue with my '15 90D. Just got the error a few days ago. I parked the car and am driving something else. I set up an appointment with Tesla in a week (out of warranty unless the issue is battery related). I wonder however, if the issue is a software bug in one of the more recent updates. I was talking to a friend who has a '16 S and he got a "Car may not restart" message late last week too. Could be coincidence, but seems a bit fishy to me. Anyway, I tried to search for my specific error codes but came up empty (hence finding this thread). Curious if this problem is more widespread.
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Yes! I was wondering that too as I did a software update the night before my trouble started.
I run a lithium battery in it for the 12 volt so I thought possibly that could have contributed to the issue and swapped it out for a lead acid 12 volt I had removed and was sitting on the shelf. Swapping it out with the lead acid gave me no better result.
I considered having a remote diagnostic but they want 150 bucks for it. So I was trying to first have a shot at it. I don't have any diagnostic equipment specifically for Tesla.
I know they were having trouble with model 3s and trouble codes showing on the dash with third-party lithium batteries after an update but this doesn't seem to be the same issue.
However I was highly suspecting that the software update caused something to happen but it could be a mere coincidence. I am interested that you see it has a possibility also... Last update: 2020.36.11
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I haven't been to a service center for quite a while and I was surprised at how many Model s's and X's were packed into the parking lot for repair.
Two tow trucks were trying to find spaces to drop off vehicles at the exact time I was given a ride to the service center from my son. I have an appointment on the 6th but was trying to rule out some things and maybe avoid an expensive trip. I wish now that I had bought some of the diagnostic equipment.
If I was a younger man and hadn't had a heart attack and quad bypass, I would have been gearing up with a hoist and everything else that I would need to work on being able to drop the traction battery out of these cars, but I'm trying to wind down and eventually make it a few years of retirement before my shortened life is done.
I'm hoping it is not the main contactors in the traction battery. I just don't have the equipment to handle the roughly 1,200 pound battery. It has a loaner battery that Tesla never did change out and refuses to change out as of 6 months ago.
The original pack had a contactor issue and was eerily similar to what's going on now...but any fault in the high voltage system would shut the contactor off from letting voltage through.
Two tow trucks were trying to find spaces to drop off vehicles at the exact time I was given a ride to the service center from my son. I have an appointment on the 6th but was trying to rule out some things and maybe avoid an expensive trip. I wish now that I had bought some of the diagnostic equipment.
If I was a younger man and hadn't had a heart attack and quad bypass, I would have been gearing up with a hoist and everything else that I would need to work on being able to drop the traction battery out of these cars, but I'm trying to wind down and eventually make it a few years of retirement before my shortened life is done.
I'm hoping it is not the main contactors in the traction battery. I just don't have the equipment to handle the roughly 1,200 pound battery. It has a loaner battery that Tesla never did change out and refuses to change out as of 6 months ago.
The original pack had a contactor issue and was eerily similar to what's going on now...but any fault in the high voltage system would shut the contactor off from letting voltage through.
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I just heard from Tesla. They scanned the car remotely and came to the conclusion that coolant heater was faulty and needs replacing. That's about $700 all in for the repair, for which I am on the hook as the car is out of warranty.
Here is my thought about why we're all getting these errors. Last winter, my dad (who at the time was driving a '13 MS) was having difficulty charging. He also completely lost regen braking. We live in the colder climates, so having the car lose regen when starting up is not out of the ordinary, but the issue was that it would never warm up. He drove the car for a bit more because the car wasn't showing any error messages. Finally, the car would not take a charge, so he took it into Tesla service. The end result was that the car needed both a new coolant heater and pump. At no point did any error messages appear to him. The heater/pump may have been broken for some time without any indication. Meanwhile, fast forward a year and I am getting the error messages right away (the temps dropped last week, and I was using preheating, which probably triggered the error).
I think that recent software updates changed the way that vehicle errors are reported. I am guessing that these codes have always been thrown, they are just now being reported to the driver. In essence, it's not a coincidence that we have similar errors cropping up at the same time. Our cars have issues (that may or may not be similar), but the common denominator is that the cars are now consistently reporting these errors.
Here is my thought about why we're all getting these errors. Last winter, my dad (who at the time was driving a '13 MS) was having difficulty charging. He also completely lost regen braking. We live in the colder climates, so having the car lose regen when starting up is not out of the ordinary, but the issue was that it would never warm up. He drove the car for a bit more because the car wasn't showing any error messages. Finally, the car would not take a charge, so he took it into Tesla service. The end result was that the car needed both a new coolant heater and pump. At no point did any error messages appear to him. The heater/pump may have been broken for some time without any indication. Meanwhile, fast forward a year and I am getting the error messages right away (the temps dropped last week, and I was using preheating, which probably triggered the error).
I think that recent software updates changed the way that vehicle errors are reported. I am guessing that these codes have always been thrown, they are just now being reported to the driver. In essence, it's not a coincidence that we have similar errors cropping up at the same time. Our cars have issues (that may or may not be similar), but the common denominator is that the cars are now consistently reporting these errors.
Now that you know what it is, are you able to do the work yourself? Lots of coolant heaters and pumps have been changed out not using Tesla service. Did they charge you for diagnosing and if so how much?
I checked the service manual for how to do this. I became leery at my ability to do this for the main reason that you to handle components from the high voltage system. Plus, looking online I can find used heaters, but not new ones. Given Tesla's propensity for unreliability, I'd hate to replace a part with another part that may not last very long. The service approval that I made did not include diagnostic fees. Apparently, Tesla is confident that the specified repair will do the trick.
It’s not due to recent software updates. I got the same errors last year and they’re too generic to always map to a specific issue. Remote diags pointed to failing battery coolant heater as well so it was replaced under warranty. If you’re up for a DIY replacement, the HV piece shouldn’t scare you away. Just disconnect the fireman’s loop and shut the car down ahead of time. It’s the coolant mess that would deter me.