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Tesla model S Suspension compressor keeps going up and down in pressure

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hello Guys im new here and hoping i can get some help.

i have tried almost everything, on the tesla model S im working on.

so my problem is, when i go in the tesla and push the brake pedal, the suspension compressor starts going(no matter if its being standing all night or just 2 minutes) it takes the pressure to the maximum level and then drops it to the minimum level again, and then the suspension compressor starts again and going to the maximum air pressure.
so my suspension compressor is stuck in a loop.

Things i have tried
- to disconnect the wires to the compressor and the valve-block
- measure corner heights (the same measuring, the next day)
- the oe-dianostic computer can measure the pressure in all cornors and Air tank( also the same measuring, the next day)
- Soap water on all suspension legs and Air wiring to the suspension legs.
- all niveau sensor has been taken off and cleaned and make sure it could move up and down in all ways.
- i have made an calibration of the cornor height, almost 100 times.
- i have software ''updated'' the CAN ECU.


I hope som of you maybe have som ideas... pls help
 
I saw this issue similar to yours in another thread of the forum:
 
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Only thing I can think of is the reservoir tank losing air since all four corners hold air. What year car, ie does the reservoir tank have the T-fitting or is the tank the updated one with the Schrader valve on top?
 
but the Air tank also holds pressure, i have a bar gauge on the valve.

Its a 2015 and its the one without the T valve.
Then only other thing I can think of is a faulty pressure sensor inside the valve block, telling the compressor there’s not enough PSI so it runs then shuts off/vents the excess air. Do you hear a “psssssh” when the compressor stops?
 
I have ordered a new valve Block from Tesla.

Yes, the valve Block says pssssh

EAS = CONTI SYSTEM​

[EAS] Air suspension compressor purging air while running​

Description

Firmware Details
Steps To Test
Steps To Fix


Effects
Causes

DESCRIPTION​


During normal driving a burst of pressurized air can be heard venting into atmosphere.

The Electronic Air Suspension (EAS) system is filled with nitrogen and if a leak is present, the system will compensate by drawing in normal air from outside. Ambient air expands more than nitrogen and may cause the system to go over the expected maximum system pressure.

FIRMWARE DETAILS​


None

STEPS TO TEST​


  1. Test drive the vehicle and listen for air venting to atmosphere.
  2. If air is heard venting into the atmosphere, then this is the issue.

STEPS TO FIX​


  1. Test the air suspension system for leaks.
  2. Deflate the complete system and refill with nitrogen according to the appropriate Service Manual procedure:
  3. Confirm the air suspension system no longer vents to atmosphere.
 

EAS = CONTI SYSTEM​

[EAS] Air suspension compressor purging air while running​

Description

Firmware Details
Steps To Test
Steps To Fix


Effects
Causes

DESCRIPTION​


During normal driving a burst of pressurized air can be heard venting into atmosphere.

The Electronic Air Suspension (EAS) system is filled with nitrogen and if a leak is present, the system will compensate by drawing in normal air from outside. Ambient air expands more than nitrogen and may cause the system to go over the expected maximum system pressure.

FIRMWARE DETAILS​


None

STEPS TO TEST​


  1. Test drive the vehicle and listen for air venting to atmosphere.
  2. If air is heard venting into the atmosphere, then this is the issue.

STEPS TO FIX​


  1. Test the air suspension system for leaks.
  2. Deflate the complete system and refill with nitrogen according to the appropriate Service Manual procedure:
  3. Confirm the air suspension system no longer vents to atmosphere.


Unfortunately, posting links to toolbox articles aren't as useful as you might think - for those of us that aren't paying $3000 per year to Tesla for a software database, those links don't go anywhere. :(

I'm still trying to resolve my suspension system and it would seem that there is YET ANOTHER problem in my X, b/c after replacing the pump which had been destroyed by running too much, and the air spring which may have been leaking down... Now the gallery pressure will only go above 2 bar when the pump is actively running, and the pump will bring it up to what seems to be 10 bar (takes a long time) but then as soon as the pump stops it will make one fast "fwoosh" noise and the gallery pressure will instantly drop to 2 bar. I suspect something remains wrong but cannot source an issue. There are no detectable leaks and no errors in the computer.
 
If the galley pressure line (purple line) is leaking it won’t throw any codes but it will take forever to fill up ..the best way to leak check the purple line is to put in service mode and click on inflate springs with 260 psi nitrogen attached to tank .the computer will then open the galley line to the reservoir tank and will leave it open during entire inflate springs test
 
If the galley pressure line (purple line) is leaking it won’t throw any codes but it will take forever to fill up ..the best way to leak check the purple line is to put in service mode and click on inflate springs with 260 psi nitrogen attached to tank .the computer will then open the galley line to the reservoir tank and will leave it open during entire inflate springs test
Can't do that - No valve on this one, I'd need the retrofit kit first, and then also need a tank. Don't have either at the moment. I've got a new valve block on the way though, b/c I'm pretty sure that's where the problem is happening. Also one of the rear won't come down when setting for low height, so I think there's issues in that valve block.
 
Unfortunately, posting links to toolbox articles aren't as useful as you might think - for those of us that aren't paying $3000 per year to Tesla for a software database, those links don't go anywhere. :(

I'm still trying to resolve my suspension system and it would seem that there is YET ANOTHER problem in my X, b/c after replacing the pump which had been destroyed by running too much, and the air spring which may have been leaking down... Now the gallery pressure will only go above 2 bar when the pump is actively running, and the pump will bring it up to what seems to be 10 bar (takes a long time) but then as soon as the pump stops it will make one fast "fwoosh" noise and the gallery pressure will instantly drop to 2 bar. I suspect something remains wrong but cannot source an issue. There are no detectable leaks and no errors in the computer.
I have exactly the same problem ('15 SP90D). Changed struts earlier in 2023. Car was ok for months. Then some pressure relief valves stopped to let out air. Changed them and car lowers and raises. Have now changed compressor and valve block in search of error, but it just won't behave. Is a visit to SC to reset with Toolbox only option?
 
I have exactly the same problem ('15 SP90D). Changed struts earlier in 2023. Car was ok for months. Then some pressure relief valves stopped to let out air. Changed them and car lowers and raises. Have now changed compressor and valve block in search of error, but it just won't behave. Is a visit to SC to reset with Toolbox only option?

I have finally gotten mine behaving, and without toolbox. What I discovered is that on the X (and likely the S as well) there's really only like 4 components to the air suspension system:

The compressor
The valve block with sensors and solenoids inside
The air springs
The reservoir

Seems that Tesla used a "magic" size of 6mm tubing that fits their wacky o-ring-on-the-outside collar connectors... And it is NOT the standard 6mm tubing that you might get if you buy metric air suspension tubing, NOR is it the 1/4" (6.4mm) USA spec air brake tubing size either. It's like 6.1-6.2mm or so. You can just about force the 6.4 tubing through the collar if you have to.

The problem is that this system is VERY sensitive to leaking and the valve block is FRAGILE. I've now replaced that damnned thing 3 times because the first replacement had a bad sensor in it, the second had a CRACK in the plastic, and finally the third is behaving. #1 came from Amazon, #2 and #3 came from Tesla. They were NOT happy about giving me a replacement over the counter either - I got ALL of these excuses of
"we don't sell parts"
"we don't sell parts over the counter"
"You can only buy parts through the app - and we can't help you if it isn't the time of your appointment"
"we don't refund electrical parts" (I didn't want a refund, idiot)
"You can't exchange parts once they have been installed"
"We don't exchange over the counter parts - there's no warranty" (NOT correct according to Tesla's own warranty policy, installation is NOT required!) and best of all:
"IF we were to sell you parts from the service center, we can only sell what is in stock. If it isn't in stock, we won't order it for you"

They REALLY don't like the right-to-repair laws, and this seems to be a concerted effort to push back against that, b/c I have heard these same statements from a total of five different service centers in 3 states now. Not all was about the air suspension, but many were. I had to drive to two different service centers just to eventually have it out with the service center manager who acted like he was making some exception after I showed him Tesla's own policy documents. This company is filled with idiots.

But basically, chase the symptoms. If you are still showing a leak / it is still detecting, then it is probably the valve block. I was STILL getting a leak between the valve block and the reservoir, despite not being able to find anything with soapy water. Eventually replacing the entire line seems to have satisfied it.
 
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I have finally gotten mine behaving, and without toolbox. What I discovered is that on the X (and likely the S as well) there's really only like 4 components to the air suspension system:

The compressor
The valve block with sensors and solenoids inside
The air springs
The reservoir

Seems that Tesla used a "magic" size of 6mm tubing that fits their wacky o-ring-on-the-outside collar connectors... And it is NOT the standard 6mm tubing that you might get if you buy metric air suspension tubing, NOR is it the 1/4" (6.4mm) USA spec air brake tubing size either. It's like 6.1-6.2mm or so. You can just about force the 6.4 tubing through the collar if you have to.

The problem is that this system is VERY sensitive to leaking and the valve block is FRAGILE. I've now replaced that damnned thing 3 times because the first replacement had a bad sensor in it, the second had a CRACK in the plastic, and finally the third is behaving. #1 came from Amazon, #2 and #3 came from Tesla. They were NOT happy about giving me a replacement over the counter either - I got ALL of these excuses of
"we don't sell parts"
"we don't sell parts over the counter"
"You can only buy parts through the app - and we can't help you if it isn't the time of your appointment"
"we don't refund electrical parts" (I didn't want a refund, idiot)
"You can't exchange parts once they have been installed"
"We don't exchange over the counter parts - there's no warranty" (NOT correct according to Tesla's own warranty policy, installation is NOT required!) and best of all:
"IF we were to sell you parts from the service center, we can only sell what is in stock. If it isn't in stock, we won't order it for you"

They REALLY don't like the right-to-repair laws, and this seems to be a concerted effort to push back against that, b/c I have heard these same statements from a total of five different service centers in 3 states now. Not all was about the air suspension, but many were. I had to drive to two different service centers just to eventually have it out with the service center manager who acted like he was making some exception after I showed him Tesla's own policy documents. This company is filled with idiots.

But basically, chase the symptoms. If you are still showing a leak / it is still detecting, then it is probably the valve block. I was STILL getting a leak between the valve block and the reservoir, despite not being able to find anything with soapy water. Eventually replacing the entire line seems to have satisfied it.
wow... is it really so sensitive? I first got a valve block from aliexpress, it has brass threads. But back then my problem was levelling the car and didn't know if the aliexpress block was ok, so I got one from Tesla as well (plastic threads), and it's the one that's mounted now. Now the car levels in all corners. Luckily we get to buy parts on the SC in Norway. Since the height remains, and I do believe the reservoir pressure as well is pretty constant, I will focus on the line between the compressor and valve block. The replace compressor is Vigor, perhaps there is a mismatch in the connection. (Where is the logic in purging the pressure reservoir when theres a leak, just to pressurize again?) Thank you for the info.