TFCooper3
Member
Sure...Can you share the form here. Removing your personal information of course.
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Sure...Can you share the form here. Removing your personal information of course.
NO do not do that. Once you "sell" your car you can no longer "transfer" the FUSC.If you can find someone who will agree to buy it and hold off for the transaction until the transfer has gone through that is fine, but not a moment sooner.
Thanks for sharing. Super helpful to see the terms.Sure...
The psychology of this can work both ways. On the one hand, if I am buying a $62k car, surely $9.99 is nothing, right? On the other hand, I got it bundled with my prior Model 3 and if it's "nothing" then Tesla can bundle it again. The other thing is it's just yet another subscription to add to the apparently infinite subscriptions we all now have - I'm close to $200 a month on average when I include all streaming, cloud, music, news, AppleCare, blah-de-blah. Oh and obviously I know the benefit of FUSC, I've been to Arizona, Colorado and Florida in the last 2 years alone, zero fuel costs. it's great.I’ve seen a number of posts mentioning losing “free” premium connectivity. I have absolutely no problem paying $120/yr (after the first year) for premium connectivity when I’m able to transfer my FUSC. The free charging I got two weeks ago on my road trip from the central coast of California to Seattle saved me the equivalent of the cost of three years of premium connectivity.
Looks very straightforward. Thank you so much for sharing. I didn't see in the document but did they also need a copy of your title or registration to prove ownership? Or just that the Tesla is under your account is sufficient?Sure...
No need for title or registration. They just need to see both the new car and the old car are in the same account.I didn't see in the document but did they also need a copy of your title or registration to prove ownership? Or just that the Tesla is under your account is sufficient?
Yes. But why "transfer" ownership.if I transfer ownership from my dad to me does it lose the unlimited supercharging?
Unless the car has SC01, yes. (So if you transfer SC01 to a new vehicle as SC05, then any transfer to a different Tesla account would cause it to be removed.)if I transfer ownership from my dad to me does it lose the unlimited supercharging?
The really old cars aren't that great for road trips anyway even with free supercharging due to the slow kW speeds & long charging times. Our 2016 S90D takes longer than a newer car would because of lower peak kW & an earlier taper as the SOC increases.I wonder how much more of a depreciation the older cars will take without supercharging? Seems like the only reason people would buy the early years. My 2013 P85+, with only 100k miles is probably worth only $25k if lucky, thinking value might drop a few thousand more without FUSC vs paying maybe a few hundred a year for charging.
This is my position as well. Keeping SC01 on an S85D with 100% range of 200-230 mi (depending on city/highway) that recharges at 90 kW maximum if on a 250 kW Supercharger (75 kW max on 150 kW), vs. "stepping down to SC05" on a MYLR with a range of 300 mi (adding some degradation) that hits 200+ kW...it's a lot easier of a sell for family trips when there are fewer stops and each stop is 15-30 min instead of 40 min.The really old cars aren't that great for road trips anyway even with free supercharging due to the slow kW speeds & long charging times. Our 2016 S90D takes longer than a newer car would because of lower peak kW & an earlier taper as the SOC increases.
Exactly, now if only that Model Y had an opening sunroof, a battery heater, and ultrasonic sensors.This is my position as well. Keeping SC01 on an S85D with 100% range of 200-230 mi (depending on city/highway) that recharges at 90 kW maximum if on a 250 kW Supercharger (75 kW max on 150 kW), vs. "stepping down to SC05" on a MYLR with a range of 300 mi (adding some degradation) that hits 200+ kW...it's a lot easier of a sell for family trips when there are fewer stops and each stop is 15-30 min instead of 40 min.
The Model Y LR has three battery heaters, which can provide more heat than the coolant heater in the old S/X:Exactly, now if only that Model Y had an opening sunroof, a battery heater, and ultrasonic sensors.
Except they don't. Do you have data showing that they heat the battery to 70+ degrees to have full regen without limits while parked by turning on the HVAC?The Model Y LR has three battery heaters, which can provide more heat than the coolant heater in the old S/X:
Why would you need a separate heater that only serves one purpose?
- Heat pump
- Front motor
- Rear motor
Mine does. (Well, I don't know for sure it is to 70 degrees, since I haven't checked.) It shows the battery heating symbol in the app, and if I started it early enough I have regen when I leave.Except they don't. Do you have data showing that they heat the battery to 70+ degrees to have full regen without limits while parked by turning on the HVAC?
The resistive battery heater is more effective at heating the battery. With Scan My Tesla you can see the temperature. We don't have to suffer much from limited regen in the winter with our S due to pre-heating via the app & the battery heater. It takes only about 8-12 minutes in most conditions to heat the battery from being perhaps in the 50s to 70+ with the resistive heater. How does the car use the motors to heat the battery while parked?Mine does. (Well, I don't know for sure it is to 70 degrees, since I haven't checked.) It shows the battery heating symbol in the app, and if I started it early enough I have regen when I leave.
It sounds more like you are complaining that they lowered the pre-heat target and that it doesn't allow full regen from a pre-conditioning, not that it doesn't have a battery heater. But that has nothing to do with having, or not having, a battery heater.
I highly doubt that.The resistive battery heater is more effective at heating the battery.
By running them in a "stalled" state. It can generate ~3kW of heat per motor, plus ~5kW of heat from the heat pump. So, it can put ~11kW of heat into the battery if it uses everything available to it. (v.s. the old Model S only having a ~3.5kW coolant heater.)How does the car use the motors to heat the battery while parked?
I'll agree on the sensors, but as I've had multiple water leaks into the cabin from my pano sunroof, and have replaced the coolant battery heater twice in the past 2.5 years, I won't miss those two MS features.Exactly, now if only that Model Y had an opening sunroof, a battery heater, and ultrasonic sensors.
I'm going to call BS on that. A quick search and a tool told me that it would take a 25kW heater to heat ~800 lbs. by 20 degrees 12 minutes. Given the heater in the Model S is closer to 3.5kW, it would take more than an hour to heat the battery pack by 20 degrees Fahrenheit.It takes only about 8-12 minutes in most conditions to heat the battery from being perhaps in the 50s to 70+ with the resistive heater.