Tesla price increase round just started

[sorka]

What do you consider 3 times faster than normal? Typical numbers I'm seeing are 15-20k miles on a set of summers, which is pretty standard for a high performance sedan. Slightly better than what I used to get on my M-cars really. All seasons will generally last longer.

Camber by itself, even at -3 degrees (which is not what these cars run), isn't going to drastically increase the wear rate of the tires. The theory about the 19" wearing better due to the thicker sidewalls is also bullshit.

After I corrected my camber to -1.3, I was getting 40K miles on subsequent sets of A/S 3+ sets. And of course -3 degrees of camber will severely decrease tire life. And yes it's normal for Model S/X's to come with that amount of negative camber on the rear but this is not normal for a street car and not what most street car factory alignments are. This has been a long standing issue with Tesla spawning a hundreds of threads over the last decade plus as well as creating an industry of third party products just to solve this issue.

Also, I don't believe that you're seeing examples of 20K miles on rear summer tires on Model S's that don't some sort of camber correction unless it's a non performance model riding at the highest suspension setting allowed.

When my MSP comes in, I'll do the same thing I did to my P85D so but soon enough not to destroy my rear tires in 13K miles.

 

[terranx]

So you're referring to the alignment settings on a 10 year old car and assuming that's applicable to a completely redesigned suspension.

 

[sorka]

So you're referring to the alignment settings on a 10 year old car and assuming that's applicable to a completely redesigned suspension.

Pre refresh was only bad at -1.5 to -1.8 degrees. Refresh are all running about -2.4 to -2.7 degrees on the lowest suspension height. So the problem got a lot worse pissing off long time sufferers of this issue as we were hoping with the re-design that it would finally be fixed.

The new design does afford more remedial options than before. Raven and pre-raven had their control arms attached to the cradle between tabs that extend from the cradle. The bushing on the cradle side is then torqued between the tabs. The refresh re-design doesn't have tabs because the bushing pivot is part of the arm and now bolts laterally into the cradle which means a properly engineered shim can be inserted between the pivot and the cradle and extending the factory arm rather than replacing it.

I was the first to notice and report this during the Munroe teardown that never mentioned it. Several months later, the first shim kits started appearing.

Refresh rear camber adjustment

Don't know if anyone has noticed this yet, but the way that the upper rear arms are mounted to the upper cradle, it should be possible to remove excess negative camber with a shim between the bracket and the cradle. The previous design had the bushing mount tabs integrated directly into the...

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