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The agony of a 10yo Model S 85 with 300 000+ km

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For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

RangeGeorgette.png
 
@AAKEE
I would like to keep the degradation as low as possible of course. So do I follow the table that I put in my initial question or should I just try to be around 70% SOC most of the time with my LFP battery ?
Thanks !
At or below 70% as much as possible.
Charge to 100% once a week or so to keep the BMS happy. Best to charge to 100% before a longer drive (endibg with SOC 70% or lower).
 
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It sucks when things die but Tesla must be doing something right. Billions are billions.
Say thank you to the US government and Musk's FSD fraudulent promises that he sold to people. Other advantages Tesla has it's supercharging network along with an ability to deliver cars quickly. if you order BMW (as an example) it will take a LONG time to get it. For now, Tesla is leading when it comes to EV tech, but absolute crap build quality along with horrible paint.
 
Doesn't this "number of miles" metric neglect the "number of years" though?

Not trying to argue, just trying to confirm my understanding. I'm still very "pro-EV", but my understanding is that while it's definitely possible to get *far* more miles out of an EV, calendar aging is not so kind.

So while a brand new ICE vehicle could be stored in a garage for many years and come out still driving like new (perhaps some oil coagulation would need to be addressed), a brand new EV stored for many years will likely need a battery replacement... even if the battery only had a few miles driven on it.

Latest word ( known to mechanics this year I read) is that modern oils degrade rod/main
bearings in ICE cars if the car is not started for a few years. Nobody said
such a thing 5 years ago AFAIK.

Best not to plain to store for years
without getting expert advice on storage! degrades the bearing material (somehow).
Yikes. So just drive it.
 
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Say thank you to the US government and Musk's FSD fraudulent promises that he sold to people. Other advantages Tesla has it's supercharging network along with an ability to deliver cars quickly. if you order BMW (as an example) it will take a LONG time to get it. For now, Tesla is leading when it comes to EV tech, but absolute crap build quality along with horrible paint.
Gordo, is that you? Is that all you got?
 
I think you mean negate, correct? EVs do have a shelf life... in a way. It is probably better thought of as battery degradation over time I think.

I did mean neglect... but perhaps I miscommunicated something.

I was referring to the statement "ICE cars last ~200k miles. EVs last 300-400k. We even have one at 750k and still running strong!"

While that may be true, it neglects to mention that you may have to drive all of those EV miles within a condensed amount of time... because current battery technology suffers from calendar aging.

So yeah, someone might have gotten 750k miles out of their EV in 8 years... but there are other EVs with 100 miles on the odometer that sat in storage for 12 years and the battery no longer functions.
 
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So, there is no "exactly" available (unless you are pretending that you know the %, not sure what the word "exactly" is supposed to mean there) for the number of 2014 Teslas still on the road.

Here is some statistics that may help you with your logic though:


The original Roadster batteries are lasting 50% longer than originally anticipated. Strangely, the "upgraded" cells from 2016 are not lasting as long as the originals! How crazy? Plenty still on the road:

ICE cars last ~200k miles. EVs last 300-400k. We even have one at 750k and still running strong! Yes, there are outliers for both EVs and ICE vehicles. Some have issues from day 1 on, and others will hit the million mile club. The mean and average are what matters. EV is ahead of ICE.

So, evaluate the data as you see fit, but from an objective viewpoint, an EV will last longer than an ICE car.
So you didn’t address the question and used the scientific figure of “plenty”.

Cool story though.
 
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I did mean neglect... but perhaps I miscommunicated something.

I was referring to the statement "ICE cars last ~200k miles. EVs last 300-400k. We even have one at 750k and still running strong!"

While that may be true, it neglects to mention that you may have to drive all of those EV miles within a condensed amount of time... because current battery technology suffers from calendar aging.

So yeah, someone might have gotten 750k miles out of their EV in 8 years... but there are other EVs with 100 miles on the odometer that sat in storage for 12 years and the battery no longer functions.
Fair point. Battery technology currently does have that limitation, and with the cost of battery replacements... yeah, that kind-a sucks!

You got me thinking about it, I think I subconsciously did the math and realized that an EV was definitely better for me. I drive ~30k a year just to go to work and back (140 miles a day, 4 days a week). So, an EV is perfect for me. The cost savings in fuel and the ability to get high miles with minimal wear is ideal.

That said, and I am just thinking out-loud here, but for ICE vehicles; we know that highway miles put significantly less wear on a vehicle compared to city miles. The constant acceleration/stopping is hard on dino juice burners. There is also no way to tell what kind of driving the vehicle endured assuming maintenance was done well. This is kind-a similar to EVs; time vs miles. As batteries age, they are going to wear out. Sure, miles and charging types/habits can have an impact, but time is the killer. Maybe we are not comparing apples to apples here? That is our issue, we are using a tried and true ICE model to evaluate EVs, and that just isn't going to work.

Also, ICE cars over 200k miles lose value fast. Can they last for 300k+? Absolutely. With proper maintenance and some repairs most can do ok. That said, other components tend to wear out and make the vehicle cost more to repair than it is worth as a whole. Sure, the engine may work, but the rest of the car just starts to fall apart. I have had plenty of cars that were well over 200k miles and the issue wasn't just the engine, but the additional maintenance. "Car payments or car repairs" is what my dad always said... pick your poison. I preferred the higher cost payments with increased reliability when I could afford it.

So for someone who is not likely to keep their car for more than 5 years and drives high miles... EVs are the way to go! For the Sunday driver that drives low miles and wants to keep their car forever, go ICE for now.
 
what question? I simply demonstrated through evidence that your statement's implications are objectively false.

Maybe you meant something else?

The only thing you demonstrated was your inability to realize I was posing a question rather than making a statement.

I asked what percentage of 2014 Model S and roadsters were still on the road in 2023. You did not provide an answer. You posted some nonsense about roadster battery longevity predictions and ICE vehicles. Way to stay on topic.
 
Just like iPhones, these vehicles are not built for longevity.

Cue the downvotes and sycophants claiming “FUD!”
I’m still using my iPhone 6S and plan to keep it for 10 years. Still get security updates on it.

Would have kept my iPhone 3GS for more than 6 years but 4G LTE was worth the upgrade.

My iphones have lasted far better than my family that purchased androids.

My 2017 MS, plan to keep it for 15 years plus.99k miles.

So far so good on both. Early products from young companies bound to have more design flaws.
 
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I’m still using my iPhone 6S and plan to keep it for 10 years. Still get security updates on it.

Would have kept my iPhone 3GS for more than 8 years but 4G LTE was worth the upgrade.

My 2017 MS, plan to keep it for 15 years plus. So far so good on both. Early products from early companies bound to have more design flaws.
Okay. Cool story.

So I’ll also ask you the same question; what % of iPhone users are currently using an iPhone 6S in 2023?

As of 2018 it was 13% and this was when the iphoneX was the latest model. In the last 5 years I’m sure that % has fallen off a cliff. So what, exactly, was your point?

Source:
 
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Say thank you to the US government and Musk's FSD fraudulent promises that he sold to people. Other advantages Tesla has it's supercharging network along with an ability to deliver cars quickly. if you order BMW (as an example) it will take a LONG time to get it. For now, Tesla is leading when it comes to EV tech, but absolute crap build quality along with horrible paint.
FSD take rate is what, 19%? Far less overseas. In China, FSD take rate is about 2%. So that’s not it.


Tesla qualified for the initial EV tax credit that was allowed for the first 200kcars and then reduced over the next two quarters. Teslas still outsold the competition when Tesla didn’t get the credit but others did. So that’s not it.


BMW takes a long time to get. People laughed at Tesla’s gigafactory. Is that Tesla’s fault too?

Yes the charging network is an advantage. Is it Tesla’s fault that the other EV makers fought the transition tooth and nail?

Build quality crap? I see plenty of anecdotal evidence on both sides of this. More good than bad.

Bad paint? I’ve read a lot of that was due to CA rules but maybe less of an issue these days due to other locations. I have read where black show flaws. My 2017 MS that has seen Michigan winters with silver paint has held up well. No paint protection. Just had it at a car show and people were surprised the car was as old as it is with 99k miles.
 
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Okay. Cool story.

So I’ll also ask you the same question; what % of iPhone users are currently using an iPhone 6S in 2023?

As of 2018 it was 13% and this was when the iphoneX was the latest model. In the last 5 years I’m sure that % has fallen off a cliff. So what, exactly, was your point?

Source:
Probably 99.9% of those people upgraded simply to have the “latest and greatest”. Not because of phone failures other than maybe a battery that can be replaced (which I had done at the Apple store for a fraction of the price of a new phone.).

Want vs necessity due to failure. Completely different.
 
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FSD take rate is what, 19%? Far less overseas. In China, FSD take rate is about 2%. So that’s not it.


Tesla qualified for the initial EV tax credit that was allowed for the first 200kcars and then reduced over the next two quarters. Teslas still outsold the competition when Tesla didn’t get the credit but others did. So that’s not it.


BMW takes a long time to get. People laughed at Tesla’s gigafactory. Is that Tesla’s fault too?

Yes the charging network is an advantage. Is it Tesla’s fault that the other EV makers fought the transition tooth and nail?

Build quality crap? I see plenty of anecdotal evidence on both sides of this. More good than bad.

Bad paint? I’ve read a lot of that was due to CA rules but maybe less of an issue these days due to other locations. I have read where black show flaws. My 2017 MS that has seen Michigan winters with silver paint has held up well. No paint protection. Just had it at a car show and people were surprised the car was as old as it is with 99k miles.
so where is FSD? i thought it was supposed to be here in 2016? where is it? It's still level 2. WIth the autopilot, I cant even reply to an email without the car going nuts.

Did you forget Elon fraudsters words "you must be insane to buy anything other than tesla" lol "robot taxi" "car will pay for itself" :)

Did you forget Us government loans?

yeah ok, stop with nonsense about build quality. If you are in toronto, lets meet and walk in to tesla and get a loaner, and walk around new cars at any of their showrooms. it's trash.

go and ask 10 different detailers about how good tesla paint is, its bad. They charge german car prices and they should deliver the quality of the product. We ordered my wife Porsche macan instead of model Y and the quality is well as you can imagine top notch. Instead of being a little cheerleader, speak up so they can fix it, but you won't because you're a fanboy. I spoke with the manager at one of the service centers and he admitted that the quality is not good and suggested to post videos about it. Also told me to keep going to service center and complain. Im sure you know better than tesla folks who actually work on these cars every day.
 
Probably 99.9% of those people upgraded simply to have the “latest and greatest”. Not because of phone failures other than maybe a battery that can be replaced (which I had done at the Apple store for a fraction of the price of a new phone.).

Want vs necessity due to failure. Completely different.
Explain to me how a Tesla, which is a rolling piece of technology, is any different?

People upgrade to get the newest Matrix headlights which aren’t even enabled, FFS.
 
FSD take rate is what, 19%? Far less overseas. In China, FSD take rate is about 2%. So that’s not it.


Tesla qualified for the initial EV tax credit that was allowed for the first 200kcars and then reduced over the next two quarters. Teslas still outsold the competition when Tesla didn’t get the credit but others did. So that’s not it.


BMW takes a long time to get. People laughed at Tesla’s gigafactory. Is that Tesla’s fault too?

Yes the charging network is an advantage. Is it Tesla’s fault that the other EV makers fought the transition tooth and nail?

Build quality crap? I see plenty of anecdotal evidence on both sides of this. More good than bad.

Bad paint? I’ve read a lot of that was due to CA rules but maybe less of an issue these days due to other locations. I have read where black show flaws. My 2017 MS that has seen Michigan winters with silver paint has held up well. No paint protection. Just had it at a car show and people were surprised the car was as old as it is with 99k miles.
LOLZ at FSD take rate being 19%. You really are out of touch.
 
The only thing you demonstrated was your inability to realize I was posing a question rather than making a statement.

I asked what percentage of 2014 Model S and roadsters were still on the road in 2023. You did not provide an answer. You posted some nonsense about roadster battery longevity predictions and ICE vehicles. Way to stay on topic.
Then you didn't read my answer which was in my first response :)

Answer to your question: that data is not available/publicized.

Thus, we must default to the known data and deduce a likely answer.

I can link you to a critical thinking source if you would like, I am happy to help! Though I doubt you would be interested ;)