Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

The agony of a 10yo Model S 85 with 300 000+ km

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

RangeGeorgette.png
 
Thanks for detailing your experiences. My 2 cents is that not all cars are built for all climates and real-world situations. I recall a number of Tesla's having door lock/handle issues due to freezing, battery packs suffering water ingress issues, suspension air struts leaking, control arm links sheering, air suspension distribution blocks leaking, etc. Our 11/13 S85 has lived its life in the desert of Arizona and the Mediterranean-like climate of Newport Beach. 127K miles with the original door handles, side mirrors, air suspension, and battery pack (though the HV contactors were replaced under warranty after a low impedance alert). I'm positive the car would have had much more issues in the New England, Northern Mid-West, or eastern Canadian regions.

While I appreciate your advice about not holding on the a potential money-pit of inconvenience, I would be concerned about passing this problem onto an unassuming buyer. I'm really hoping the issues aren't as widespread as reported here on the forum, and that reasonably priced 3rd party options continues to expand before the volume of issues gets too large.
 
Just a comment on your decreased Supercharging speeds as compared with a few years back:

Sometime during the summer of 2019 a software update ("minor bug fixes and improvements") reduced the amperage that the battery would accept when Supercharging. While I do not dispute your claim that you received 100kW at a SOC of 50%, I personally, and colleagues of mine never saw those speeds with that SOC. The rule of thumb prior to that software change was SOC + kW = 120 or so. On a really hot summer day (>100) after driving for a couple of hours, we might see speeds approaching 117 kW at 15%, but they would quickly taper to 100kW at 25% and 90kW at 30%.

Now days, the general rule of thumb is SOC + kW = 110. And in coolish weather with preconditioning all the way to the Supercharger that amount is closer to 100.

The much touted, "add as much as 50% to your battery in as little as 20 minutes" vanished with this software change. For me, at least, to go from 15% to 65% during the best of weather is closer to 30 minutes.

It is a mystery why Tesla reduced the SC speeds in these models.
 
Is it really a mystery?
Fast charging is stressful and heat generating. Their data showed that was a problem. Seems pretty cut and dry.
They also discovered that batteries that get old can catch fire when charging so they tightened the tolerances a bit and hence we are getting BMS_u029 more often. That is better than a fire and better than dying on the side of the road.
They also slowed down regen in cooler temps over the years - presumably because of data.

I am no Tesla fanboy. I will not ever buy one again. But some of this stuff is expected learning curve and I don't fault Tesla for it that much.
Now - their customer service is insulting. They aren't doing well enough to support older cars. Their aspirational statements are just lies. And Musk ...

But learning how to protect older batteries is helpful and necessary.

OP - curious what the exchange offer was.
 
Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point,

the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger.

The stopping before the range is well below zero is a clue to the car/BMS overestimating the capacity and underestimating the degradation.

How have ypu charged the car during these years? Always 80-90% ?

How much supercharging have you done (percent of miles?)
 
I knew right from the start that I definitely DIDN'T want to get the air suspension. I would have paid extra to NOT have it, and hearing this makes me feel even better about that decision.

I also had a couple of door handle fixes. During that first few years, they made several improvements in the design of them for reliability. Mine is an early 2014, but already had some improvements in several things.

But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery.
Yes, this is a known and very real error.
A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems.

There are certainly cheaper options than that for less than $10K USD from shops here in the U.S., and they can ship the car. But I understand not wanting to do it because of the accumulation of other problems.

Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time.
...and isn't a viable fix anyway.

One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for.
Whoa, that's dangerous. This 029 error is very real and the newer firmwares are protecting from a serious safety issue.

Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever.
Then you haven't read Recell's or wk057's very knowledgeable explanations of what this 029 error is. It is real and dangerous and unrepairable.

I'm sympathetic to the repair difficulties and costs, but it's bothering me to hear conspiracy theories like this.
 
Is it really a mystery?
Fast charging is stressful and heat generating. Their data showed that was a problem. Seems pretty cut and dry.
They also discovered that batteries that get old can catch fire when charging so they tightened the tolerances a bit and hence we are getting BMS_u029 more often. That is better than a fire and better than dying on the side of the road.
They also slowed down regen in cooler temps over the years - presumably because of data.

I am no Tesla fanboy. I will not ever buy one again. But some of this stuff is expected learning curve and I don't fault Tesla for it that much.
Now - their customer service is insulting. They aren't doing well enough to support older cars. Their aspirational statements are just lies. And Musk ...

But learning how to protect older batteries is helpful and necessary.

OP - curious what the exchange offer was.
It is a mystery for MS owners that have less than 50k miles, mostly charged at home 20-80%, and supercharged 1-2 times. Then they get the BMS_u029 error after the battery warranty expires.

Then they're blamed for not using their vehicle enough and causing moisture to build up. LOL at the clown show.
 
Thanks for your replies. Here are a couple of answers.
I would be concerned about passing this problem onto an unassuming buyer.
Indeed, I should have written "return the car to Tesla" a year before.

OP - curious what the exchange offer was.
Initially, 11k$, but a few weeks later, after I tried finding someone interested to part it out, and maybe after seeing the cracked windshield, they decrease to 8k$. But since it was an exchange, I would save 15% taxes on this amount on the new car, so it was equivalent to selling it 9k$ to an individual. With the 12k$ grants and the exchange, the M3 was 45.8k$ Canadian out of our pockets (~34k USD).

... and hence we are getting BMS_u029 more often. That is better than a fire and better than dying on the side of the road.
Well, in my case, I got the 30km-of-range stall two days before the BMS_u029, which only came after another 400-km trip.

How have you charged the car during these years? Always 80-90% ?
How much supercharging have you done (percent of miles?)

For the first 1.5 years, it was charged quite often to 100%, before we learned it was better to keep it lower. Then, 90% most of the time, except once every ~2 weeks, where I would charge it to 100% just before a trip. During hot summer days, I would keep it below 60%. We were using superchargers maybe once a month, and just enough to reach destination, except on trip were we would use them a couple of times a day, during 3-4 weeks. It's hard to say how much supercharging in proportion, but from the top of my head, I would say maybe 10% of the millage.

Seeing that they proposed a FW downgrade after a 029 error is not great
To VE|MTL defence, at that point, I had already decided to return the car to Tesla in exchange for new one, so it was a solution for a few weeks, just to be able to return the car to Tesla. The other option seemed to be the scrap yard. Plus, it was not in principle a BMS reset where everyting is erased AFAIU. It was rather going back to a previous version. As mentioned, this did not gave more range. The range ended up being capped at 348km, compared to 366 km a few days before. And I would still experience significant power reduction at ~55km of range.

In my little story, I forgot to mention that I did experience significant power reduction twice at ~50 km of range in cold weather (-20°C) 6 months ago, with the up-to-date version of the FW, without the car stopping, and without any BMS error. And also maybe once with 20 km of range on my way to Chicago, during this "deadly trip". So after the downgrade, I was more or less in the same situation.

But I understand it should not be taken lightly. As a matter of fact, after the downgrade, I refrained from charging the car to more than 80%, and from parking it inside. I did use superchargers maybe twice, charging up to ~60% SOC.
 
Last edited:
There are many owners (including some on TMC) that have experienced this. Battery warranty expires. A few months later BMS_u029.
... and just as many that have experienced this a few months before the warranty expiring.

I know, not nearly as fun as a good tinfoil hat conspiracy theory, but hey, we have politics for that!
 
Is it really a mystery?
Fast charging is stressful and heat generating. Their data showed that was a problem. Seems pretty cut and dry.
They also discovered that batteries that get old can catch fire when charging so they tightened the tolerances a bit and hence we are getting BMS_u029 more often. That is better than a fire and better than dying on the side of the road.
They also slowed down regen in cooler temps over the years - presumably because of data.

I am no Tesla fanboy. I will not ever buy one again. But some of this stuff is expected learning curve and I don't fault Tesla for it that much.
Now - their customer service is insulting. They aren't doing well enough to support older cars. Their aspirational statements are just lies. And Musk ...

But learning how to protect older batteries is helpful and necessary.

OP - curious what the exchange offer was.
This is the perspective from my point of view:

I am not an engineer; physics was never offered when I was in school. I did not know that fast charging was stressful, although I figured out that it generated a bunch of heat. I would assume that the geniuses at Tesla knew all about this. I would further assume that Tesla would have done thousands of hours of testing, diagnosis, and other real and simulated experiments to see how well their batteries held up under various forms of Supercharging. When we first purchased our Model S in 2014, Superchargers were maxed out at 90kW. About a year later, they upped the max to 120kW, followed by 150kW around the time the Model 3 was getting off the ground. If Supercharging is so deleterious to the batteries, why did Tesla increase the speeds on the Superchargers, and why did they allow the batteries to accept these increased speeds? This seems counterintuitive from a practical point of view.

If "some of this stuff is expected learning curve," then we were unwitting and unpaid participants. Tesla compounded their self-inflicted wounds by concealing this substantial reduction in Supercharging speeds from us in software updates that were labeled, "minor bug fixes and improvements." I fail to equate a 33% + increase in Supercharging time spent as a minor bug fix or improvement.

I don't expect any favors from Tesla. (I also don't expect my battery to conflagrate, either.) But I do expect Tesla to be as forthcoming as possible when seven years' worth of data reveals to them that historical Supercharging speeds and tapering need to be downgraded significantly for protecting the battery. And I expect them to offer a reasonable remedy to us--one that paints them well in the court of public opinion, one that allows them to make some money, and one that allows us owners to regain the faster speeds that we had relied upon for several years if we so chose.

Some might argue that this reduction in Supercharging speeds was more of a canard to get us original owners to trade in or otherwise dispose of our FUSC in order to acquire a newer model that only offered paid Supercharging. Tesla's silence makes this latter argument as plausible as the inferences drawn from the error messages and battery failures.

Now, regarding their insulting customer service, lack of support for older cars, aspirational statements, and Musk, you are spot on......
 
I'm sympathetic to the repair difficulties and costs, but it's bothering me to hear conspiracy theories like this.

... and just as many that have experienced this a few months before the warranty expiring.

I know, not nearly as fun as a good tinfoil hat conspiracy theory, but hey, we have politics for that!

Version 2020 of the BMS would not produce the error at the same degradation stage as version 2023 does. Plus, they could do that because they maintained free connectivity and were forcing OTA upgrades. Other manufacturers could not do such "upgrade" without a recall or something.

So it's not a conspiracy theory, just facts. Rather than planning for safer margins from the start, they tried to push things a bit too far, and then changed the rules of the game along the way, at the wrong time for us early adopters.

So I agree with @cpa:
we were unwitting and unpaid participants
to this experiment.
 
... and just as many that have experienced this a few months before the warranty expiring.
.
Version 2020 of the BMS would not produce the error at the same degradation stage as version 2023 does. Plus, they could do that because they maintained free connectivity and were forcing OTA upgrades. Other manufacturers could not do such "upgrade" without a recall or something.

So it's not a conspiracy theory, just facts. Rather than planning for safer margins from the start, they tried to push things a bit too far, and then changed the rules of the game along the way, at the wrong time for us early adopters.
These statements, which you are calling "facts" seem like a very strange description of what this was. It's not as much a degradation, as you call it. It's something gone defective in one of the modules, which can make it unsafe to operate as usual. And this difference from the 2020 version to newer seems to be discovering how this was a problem and how to flag this dangerous condition, where the earlier version didn't seem to be either looking for this problem specifically or not flagging it soon enough. So it is an additional safety check that was added.
 
seems to be discovering how this was a problem
Did they, or did they push things too far from the beginning and now they are backtracking. I mean, Elon has a history of pushing things before they are ready, FSD being an example. Of course, this attitude brought us great cars and charging infrastructure when no other company would have done such a bold move.
it's bothering me to hear conspiracy theories like this.
On my side, it bothers me when people call others conspiracy theorists when they just differ about "discovering how this was a problem" vs lack of planning of safe-enough margins, and pushing it on consumers.
 
Last edited:
  • Disagree
Reactions: davewill