The quest for wider wheels and tires, 295, 305 and beyond...

[dsgerbc]

I’m not mechanically inclined enough to be able to do all that you just said.

I’m not in a position to try different spacers out, so I need to make sure to order the correct one on my first try.

You gotta pay to play. You can push to the edge of what's possible either with $$$ to have someone else do the verification for you, or with your own time/effort, or with $$$$ for new tires+tow+possible further damage repair. Take your pick.

I can fit 305s on +32 offset wheels in the rear on OEM P rotors, so, pretty much the equivalent of +35 wheels on non-P brakes. I probably have 1.5-2.0 degrees of camber more than stock in the rear, which is very roughly equivalent to 15ish mm of extra fender clearance. Which means that 275-wide tires would probably be okay with stock rear camber. With your 265-wide tires, and +30 wheel you're already at the same fender clearance. Now, I left a safety margin, so a 5mm spacer would probably still fit if you don't plan on cornering hard.

 

[iNcontroL]

Take your time. Do your homework. What width wheel? +15 offset with that width of tire is going to poke out without extra camber. Don’t make your Model 3 nonfunctional.

Martian MW03 Wheels
Front: 19x8.5 with +35 offset
Rear: 19x9.5 with +30 offset

Tires
Front: 235/40/19
Rear: 265/35/19

Stock everything else on a 2019 Model 3 RWD. No performance brakes.

I love my tire setup and don’t want to make any kind of modifications to the car since I’ll be selling it in a year or two. I just wanted to spend a couple hundred more and buy some spacers that’ll give me a more aggressive stance in the back and have the guys at Firestone install them for me when they put on my new tires and do my alignment.

I want to put 5mm spacers in the front which I know will fit and the biggest spacers I can in the back that’ll clear with no rubbing. Whether that’s 20mm, 15mm, 10mm or 5.

I may have incorrectly assumed that if a Model 4 can clear 305s in the rear that it’d be the equivalent of me running 20mm spacers on my 265s with the +30 offset.

 

[pdx_m3s]

Martian MW03 Wheels
Front: 19x8.5 with +35 offset
Rear: 19x9.5 with +30 offset

Tires
Front: 235/40/19
Rear: 265/35/19

Stock everything else on a 2019 Model 3 RWD. No performance brakes.

I love my tire setup and don’t want to make any kind of modifications to the car since I’ll be selling it in a year or two. I just wanted to spend a couple hundred more and buy some spacers that’ll give me a more aggressive stance in the back and have the guys at Firestone install them for me when they put on my new tires and do my alignment.

I want to put 5mm spacers in the front which I know will fit and the biggest spacers I can in the back that’ll clear with no rubbing. Whether that’s 20mm, 15mm, 10mm or 5.

I may have incorrectly assumed that if a Model 4 can clear 305s in the rear that it’d be the equivalent of me running 20mm spacers on my 265s with the +30 offset.

IMO you only need a 15mm spacer up front to match the back of the car. You’re front setup is about 17mm more sunken in than the rear right now. 9.5” +30 in the rear is ideal.

 

[iNcontroL]

IMO you only need a 15mm spacer up front to match the back of the car. You’re front setup is about 17mm more sunken in than the rear right now. 9.5” +30 in the rear is ideal.

Yeah, but I’m actually trying to get the tires of my rear to poke out as much beyond the fenders as it can. If I can put 15mm on 20mm on the rears it’d be ideal but I’ll take what I can get so long as it can clear without rubbing.

 

[superflyrolla]

I think your question has been answered multiple times already. The "look" you are trying to accomplish is not possible without damaging your car at these specifications and you have expressed no interest in additional modifications or work to make it fit. This is getting off topic for those of us who are interested in "wide wheels and tires."

 

[emotiveeng]

Edit: I was using this website as reference. It lists 305/35/19 as one of the compatible tires, but I’m not sure how accurate this is or if I’m just reading it incorrectly.

I should perhaps re-state the disclaimer in each of the sections, but "compatible size" in this sense means it is within +/- 3% of factory diameter not that it will be a direct fit to the car or that the size even has a reasonable tire choice. FWIW, Mountain Pass Performance stuffed a 305/30R19 on their "Eurotrip" car which was fitted with their entire catalog of parts.

 

[Lavender]

I have 295/30/20's (+45 ET with a 3mm spacer for the stupid double lip hub) on the rear of my M3P right now, a 305 would fit no problem

 

[pdx_m3s]

I have 295/30/20's (+45 ET with a 3mm spacer for the stupid double lip hub) on the rear of my M3P right now, a 305 would fit no problem

Edit: found them. Looks good!
Pics? Curious as I’m considering 295s out back (+35).

 

[gearchruncher]

Just an FYI: 295/30/18 Hoosiers on Konig Hypergrams 10.5" wide, +25 offset on an M3P with stock rotors.

 

[superflyrolla]

Just an FYI: 295/30/18 Hoosiers on Konig Hypergrams 10.5" wide, +25 offset on an M3P with stock rotors.

I've also run this A7 tire spec on the same Hypergrams, but grey brake rotors. No rubbing with only -2.4 degrees camber but they did poke out.

I've wondered to myself multiple times if the A7 is actually a narrower & taller tire than the 200tw in the same size? Or are the dimensions only different because TireRack measured it on a 10" wide rim?

 

[gearchruncher]

Spent an hour checking fitment closer. Again, 295/30R18 hoosiers on a 10.5 ET25 rim. I took the spring off and did a full compression to the bump stop and steering sweep. It's close, but it does fit just like superflyrolla says. I'm at -2.3 camber.

 

[The Other Dan]

Spent an hour checking fitment closer. Again, 295/30R18 hoosiers on a 10.5 ET25 rim. I took the spring off and did a full compression to the bump stop and steering sweep. It's close, but it does fit just like superflyrolla says. I'm at -2.3 camber.

View attachment 848623

Sigh... not good. Looks like I'll need a 3rd set of wheels. Purple Crack, summer, and winter. Oh boy....

 

[gearchruncher]

Sigh... not good. Looks like I'll need a 3rd set of wheels. Purple Crack, summer, and winter. Oh boy....

The problem is if you run in any group that does SCCA classing, there is no competitive class for a Model 3 on Hoosiers. EV-X requires 200TW, and SSR doesn't allow the Model 3. You're deep into full race car territory if you care about index or class competition at all.

My local event uses completely different rules, so I can run Hoosiers and still have some chance of competing. Come join us up at Evergreen AutoX someday, we need more Teslas!

 

[dsgerbc]

Sigh... not good. Looks like I'll need a 3rd set of wheels. Purple Crack, summer, and winter. Oh boy....

You gotta pump those numbers up, those are rookie numbers.
Let's see, I have the OEM set, summer, winter, mild winter/roadtrip, 200tw autox, durable HPDE set, and thinking of getting just one fix of the p.crack after staying clean for a decade. Oh, and maybe another 200tw set, since I hate my RT660s on concrete.
Send help.

 

[dsgerbc]

I took the spring off and did a full compression to the bump stop

That's how I tested my FUCA clearance when dialing extra caster, and ended up with 1-2 millimeter deep marks on those when bump stops compressed way more on a bad bump. Looking at pictures, you're probably fine, but I'd maybe roll/pull your fenders to get a bit more of a safety margin.

 

[The Other Dan]

The problem is if you run in any group that does SCCA classing, there is no competitive class for a Model 3 on Hoosiers. EV-X requires 200TW, and SSR doesn't allow the Model 3. You're deep into full race car territory if you care about index or class competition at all.

My local event uses completely different rules, so I can run Hoosiers and still have some chance of competing. Come join us up at Evergreen AutoX someday, we need more Teslas!

Another big sigh... I guess I'm too used to SM where I can do whatever I want for the most part.

 

[The Other Dan]

You gotta pump those numbers up, those are rookie numbers.
Let's see, I have the OEM set, summer, winter, mild winter/roadtrip, 200tw autox, durable HPDE set, and thinking of getting just one fix of the p.crack after staying clean for a decade. Oh, and maybe another 200tw set, since I hate my RT660s on concrete.
Send help.

You need counseling. Or a dedicated race car. Might be the same thing tho...

 

[superflyrolla]

This is my favorite thread on the forum.

Think this is too tight? I’ll probably take it for test drive this weekend when it warms up.

18x10.5 +30 295/35R18 w MPP rotors

 

[gearchruncher]

18x10.5 +30 295/35R18 w MPP rotors

I get a fair amount of upright rub with the tire on 10.5 +25 with a 295 on stock rotors. I'm imagining you're going to get a lot more, but it will work.

 

[MasterC17]

This is my favorite thread on the forum.

Think this is too tight? I’ll probably take it for test drive this weekend when it warms up.

18x10.5 +30 295/35R18 w MPP rotors

Should be fine, just make sure the wheel speed sensor is as far behind the knuckle as possible and add multiple zip ties above and below the most likely contact points.