The woes of wrecking a Tesla Model 3 Performance...

[SMAlset]

@Ayy Eye , That was so painful to watch and don't know about the rest of you but I could hear myself saying, don't turn, don't turn! Not sure if there was a pole on that concrete block (probably intended for lighting) if it would have helped. However did you say this was your company's parking garage or just a garage you park at when going to work?

The fact the car bounced back off hitting the concrete leads me to believe the speed was also faster. Did you get any bruising from ther airbags or seat belt?

I could see where the water was diverting all to the side of the structure where your car was parked, and piling up thanks also to the concrete wall there to the right of your car. Definitely looked deeper there watching your right repeater. Must have been some downpour. So sad to think that you were concerned for your car getting water damage and instead this happened. Best of luck with the repairs and will follow your thread to see how it turns out. Hope the repair time is short and it looks like new when done. So sorry. Aside from the P, looks very much like my car unless you have white/black interior (hard to see through the tinting on the side window -- BTW did that contribute to poor visibility during a presumably dark and dreary day and making a turn to the side?).

 

[focher]

Then there is the question about how Tesla views a pyrofuse replacement (didn't see it in the quote). They used to require that the battery be replaced (prior models?), but that seems absurd, so hopefully the replacement is all they need.

They don’t require a battery replacement. I had the pyro blow in an accident. The only caveat is that Tesla doesn’t allow body shops to replace it. The replacement has to be done by Tesla.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

They don’t require a battery replacement. I had the pyro blow in an accident. The only caveat is that Tesla doesn’t allow body shops to replace it. The replacement has to be done by Tesla.

Yeah I figured. That pyrofuse resulting in battery replacement was probably for early Model S (if it was ever a thing).

Anyway I did not see it in the quote but maybe it is called something else.

 

[Ayy Eye]

Those are some excellent rates for paint & body work. Sounds like the insurer is doing their job at keeping rates down; we'll see if it holds!

A few things:

The front frame rails may have been spread apart a bit. If so, it'll splay the front fenders a bit as well.

If the shop has to replace those (if the measurements show they have been pushed), they'll have to replace the front frame rails & the front fenders. That will call for a front motor and suspension overhaul (which will add to the cost). This seems like the main thing that could drive prices up - it looks like it might be ok but hard to tell.

The forged aluminum impact bars are pretty strong and don't bend that well - so the frame can end up taking the hit in these sorts of cases.

It was a very immovable object, so forces to do this were high enough that it is possible.

Then there is the question about how Tesla views a pyrofuse replacement (didn't see it in the quote). They used to require that the battery be replaced (prior models?), but that seems absurd, so hopefully the replacement of the fuse is all Tesla requires.

Interesting that they call for a headliner with the ultra-suede - presumably a mistake - but maybe you'll get an Alcantara headliner out of this!

The only image I can DL from the insurance website, their site is broken, not sure if you can see much though.

(hard to see through the tinting on the side window -- BTW did that contribute to poor visibility during a presumably dark and dreary day and making a turn to the side?).

I can't really recall, the tints aren't crazy dark either - 35%. White interior.

 

[Ayy Eye]

They don’t require a battery replacement. I had the pyro blow in an accident. The only caveat is that Tesla doesn’t allow body shops to replace it. The replacement has to be done by Tesla.

Including Tesla Certified shops? That would suck, the closest service center is like 3 hours from me.

 

[focher]

Including Tesla Certified shops? That would suck, the closest service center is like 3 hours from me.

Yep. My car was getting work at the Service King near the Fremont factory. They are certified. They had to tow it over to the factory where the fuse was replaced. Then the car was driven back to the body shop.

 

[SMAlset]

Yep. My car was getting work at the Service King near the Fremont factory. They are certified. They had to tow it over to the factory where the fuse was replaced. Then the car was driven back to the body shop.

And no technicians were fried in the process which I guess is the reason for that policy.

 

[Resist]

Why is it again, that you couldn't see that block. Looked clearly visible in the video.

 

[justsomeguy]

Why is it again, that you couldn't see that block. Looked clearly visible in the video.

The cameras aren't mounted anywhere near where the driver looks through the windshield though. I'm guessing he had a tiny defogged portion of the windshield that he was ducking to look through, as well as completely fogged out side windows.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

The cameras aren't mounted anywhere near where the driver looks through the windshield though.

In addition, the section of windshield in front of the cameras is heated, and probably mostly sealed from moisture inside the car (the cause of the fogging), so it was clear. A new owner might not immediately know how to quickly get the AC + Heat going full blast on the windshield (double tap the front defog symbol until it goes red)...so a little foggy...some amount of panic about the "flooding" situation, frazzled, and next...bang. Get anyone sufficiently out of their comfort zone, not 100% at ease with the vehicle, and mistakes can happen.

 

[Ayy Eye]

Why is it again, that you couldn't see that block. Looked clearly visible in the video.

Exactly why below. Also, the defogger wasn't doing the best job. But nonetheless, poor decisions on my part.

The cameras aren't mounted anywhere near where the driver looks through the windshield though. I'm guessing he had a tiny defogged portion of the windshield that he was ducking to look through, as well as completely fogged out side windows.

In addition, the section of windshield in front of the cameras is heated, and probably mostly sealed from moisture inside the car (the cause of the fogging), so would probably have been clear. A new owner might not immediately know how to get the AC + Heat going full blast on the windshield...so a little foggy...some amount of panic about the "flooding" situation, frazzled, and next...bang. Get anyone sufficiently out of their comfort zone, not 100% at ease with the vehicle, and mistakes can happen.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

the defogger wasn't doing the best job

Single or double tap? Usually for as quick clearing as possible, I double tap (just like with zombies). Technically defrost, but it is A/C plus heat, so both the dew point is lowered and the temperature is increased.

 

[justsomeguy]

In addition, the section of windshield in front of the cameras is heated, and probably mostly sealed from moisture inside the car (the cause of the fogging), so it was clear. A new owner might not immediately know how to quickly get the AC + Heat going full blast on the windshield (double tap the front defog symbol until it goes red)...so a little foggy...some amount of panic about the "flooding" situation, frazzled, and next...bang. Get anyone sufficiently out of their comfort zone, not 100% at ease with the vehicle, and mistakes can happen.

I didn't realize that portion was heated. I figured the cameras just generated a bunch of heat from running which caused the defogging effect. Are repeater, pillar cameras similarly heated?

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I didn't realize that portion was heated. I figured the cameras just generated a bunch of heat from running which caused the defogging effect. Are repeater, pillar cameras similarly heated?

The windshield camera cluster is heated by the obvious “defrost” wires in front of those cameras. They can be active even when the car is off (when it is in idle mode - but not when it is sleeping AFAIK). I do not know if this heating is dependent on outside temp when the car is off. I have seen them heating when it is 60 degrees, when the car has just been sitting there unused in the garage.

The other cameras are not heated in identical fashion. However, I can tell you that when the center camera cluster is heated with the car sitting in idle mode, there is also a heat signature from the repeater cameras (no idea on the pillar cameras - have not checked) and all the parking sensors. It’s possible that would be enough heat to keep them free of ice in some conditions - but I have no idea and I imagine keeping those other cameras clear is not particularly reliable. I don’t know whether it is residual camera module heat that is being picked up on the repeaters, or whether it is from intentional resistive heating in those modules.

 

[r1200gs4ok]

There are 3 sides to every story...

yea...the rain...the car....and the concrete pillar

 

[GregD60]

The concrete pillar won.

 

[Ayy Eye]

Update:
Body shop said that the insurance quote hasn't even scratched what may be needed and they still haven't taken the car apart yet to determine the actual cost. They said this will take roughly 2 weeks, then they will order the required parts. The car was dropped off at the body shop on Monday afternoon but no work or disassembly has been done yet.

The concrete pillar won.

By a long shot.

 

[Resist]

They said this will take roughly 2 weeks, then they will order the required parts.

A good body shop shouldn't take 2 weeks to determine what parts are needed.

 

[dennisvab]

@Ayy Eye where in NY are you located? And what body shop are you using?

 

[Ayy Eye]

@Ayy Eye where in NY are you located? And what body shop are you using?

Capital Region. Coles Collision - only Tesla certified shop that’s not over 3 hours away.