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Torn Between Dual Motor LR and Performance [resolved]

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Internet tells me 0-60-mph time of 4.1 seconds with the manual transmission, and 3.8 seconds for the Competition mode on the M4.

LR AWD is 3.9 stock. 3.5 with the boost upgrade.

(all times with 1 foot rollout)

Plus the Tesla is way cheaper.

AFAIK the AWD+ at $48,990 is the quickest car available under 50k.

Even under 60k it's #3 quickest on the list

(1 and 2 are the base C8 Vette and Tesla Model 3 Performance that both do 3 flat but vette is slightly quicker in the 1/4 as a tie breaker.. numbers 4 and 5 are the Audi RS3 and... the Tesla Model 3 LR AWD without boost)
I was down to the RS3 and the M3P. The RS3 is a sweet package. It’s a little too small but it’s compelling at around 50k used. Apparently you can tune them down to the mid 2s ... until it blows up.
 
I was down to the RS3 and the M3P. The RS3 is a sweet package. It’s a little too small but it’s compelling at around 50k used. Apparently you can tune them down to the mid 2s ... until it blows up.

I looked at the RS3 too. The issue is that maintenance is rough on the Audis and I got my MP3 for around $59k new (red multicoat is expensive). Also, there is no engine maintenance or fuel costs for me (solar) so it was a no brainer.
 
I looked at the RS3 too. The issue is that maintenance is rough on the Audis and I got my MP3 for around $59k new (red multicoat is expensive). Also, there is no engine maintenance or fuel costs for me (solar) so it was a no brainer.
Pretty much my exact thought process. Probably a little more soul to that RS3 but man owning an Audi out of warranty is like a game of Russian Roulette. And a new one is 70k and was out of my budget. I plan to keep the M3P for 3 years and I’ll never need brakes, an oil change or gas. Hard to pass that up (although it will clearly need numerous paint touch ups).
 
Pretty much my exact thought process. Probably a little more soul to that RS3 but man owning an Audi out of warranty is like a game of Russian Roulette. And a new one is 70k and was out of my budget. I plan to keep the M3P for 3 years and I’ll never need brakes, an oil change or gas. Hard to pass that up (although it will clearly need numerous paint touch ups).

My PPF solved the paint issue for me. Also, I got to play with an RS3 from a dig and I ran away from it. I was surprised it wasn't modded (or I assumed it wasn't as it seemed pretty slow).
 
My wife and I faced the same dilemma a month ago and we ended up going with a LR + AB for her. We’re never going to track our car and didn’t want the harsher ride. LR+ is also quick enough at 3.7 0-60 and 11.7-8 1/4 mile. I also priced what it would cost to replace the P3 20” tires when they go and it was freaking ridiculous lol. We could afford the P3 but couldn’t justify the extra $8K plus maintenance costs if we weren’t using those upgrades to their potential. We love the range, technology, and the performance of the LR+, I don’t like Tesla’s QA issues.
 
My wife and I faced the same dilemma a month ago and we ended up going with a LR + AB for her. We’re never going to track our car and didn’t want the harsher ride. LR+ is also quick enough at 3.7 0-60 and 11.7-8 1/4 mile. I also priced what it would cost to replace the P3 20” tires when they go and it was freaking ridiculous lol. We could afford the P3 but couldn’t justify the extra $8K plus maintenance costs if we weren’t using those upgrades to their potential. We love the range, technology, and the performance of the LR+, I don’t like Tesla’s QA issues.
Aside from slightly more expensive rubber what are the increased maintenance charges? As best I can tell it’s probably about 300 more for 20 inch all seasons which really isn’t the end of the world.
 
I've mostly skimmed through this thread, so I don't know if it's been mentioned, but in addition to the other factors for consideration already stated, another one is the cost of insurance over the long term.

When I traded my LR RWD recently for an inventory '19 AWD, I also had considered an inventory '19 P3. Both cars were discounted by $7-8k overall. I ultimately opted for the AWD with the peace of mind that I could get the boost upgrade and have close to P3 power, which is more than enough for my daily street use anyway since I have no plans to track it whatsoever. Then, the quote I got for insurance would have had me paying almost $50-60 more a month had I gone with the P3.
 
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Internet tells me 0-60-mph time of 4.1 seconds with the manual transmission, and 3.8 seconds for the Competition mode on the M4.

LR AWD is 3.9 stock. 3.5 with the boost upgrade.

(all times with 1 foot rollout)

Plus the Tesla is way cheaper.

AFAIK the AWD+ at $48,990 is the quickest car available under 50k.

Even under 60k it's #3 quickest on the list

(1 and 2 are the base C8 Vette and Tesla Model 3 Performance that both do 3 flat but vette is slightly quicker in the 1/4 as a tie breaker.. numbers 4 and 5 are the Audi RS3 and... the Tesla Model 3 LR AWD without boost)

This....and my car was a convertible. As far as I know, it's 0-60 time was 4.4 seconds. The 4.4 could only be had with quite a bit of skill and drama with the manual transmission. I've changed my order to a performance model. 3.1 s to 60 with no drama will be quite a bit faster than the M4!
 
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Op picked the performance model. It’s on the page before.

Yeah....I switched to a red/black performance model. For no logical reason. I just didn't want to regret it later. I'm positive the LR AWD would have been perfect, but if I came across a performance on the street, I would have been jealous. That's sooooo immature but that's the truth of it! I must say that I am much more at peace with my decision after making the change. Now.....If they would just call get it to me!!!!!
 
Aside from slightly more expensive rubber what are the increased maintenance charges? As best I can tell it’s probably about 300 more for 20 inch all seasons which really isn’t the end of the world.


In theory the larger brakes would be more expensive to replace parts on, though EV brakes last a long time... the 20" rims on lower sidewall tires are also more prone to damage from potholes and stuff
 
The biggest performance difference between LR vs P is mostly in low speed regime (like below 30mph)
Above that its mostly the same - from highway speed on, probably identical. And at the very top end the P is not (software) limited to 230kph
 
OP - Good decision. I had the same dilemma and originally ordered a LR and then switched to the P. Like you, I am coming from years of BMW ownership (E46 M3, E60 M5 and E90 M3 - all manuals). I knew I would always regret not getting the P and am so glad I did. The performance of the P is truly amazing. Good luck!
 
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Yeah....I switched to a red/black performance model. For no logical reason. I just didn't want to regret it later. I'm positive the LR AWD would have been perfect, but if I came across a performance on the street, I would have been jealous. That's sooooo immature but that's the truth of it! I must say that I am much more at peace with my decision after making the change. Now.....If they would just call get it to me!!!!!

I guess you'll never suffer from FOMO with that decision! We just got the standard LR AWD as it's primarily my wife's car. But now having driven it, I'm not really craving any more power. Not even thinking about the boost option. At the end of the day it's still a 450 hp beast. Ride and handling on the stock 18" wheels seem perfect for our UK rural roads. That was my biggest concern with the Performance package.
 
When I totaled my wife's TM3 AWD (I hit a curb and sufficiently gooned the suspension for my insurance to total it), we were torn between replacing it or upgrading to the Performance. In the end, we got another AWD with aero wheels and:

Bought a new set of 19" aftermarket rims and high performance 245/40 R19 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Plus tires ($2,000)
  • Bought the speed boost ($2,000)
  • Installed a carbon fiber spoiler ($300)
  • Installed wheel spacers, 15mm front and 20mm aft ($250)
  • Installed red brake covers, ($250)

So, for under $5,000 more than the AWD, we get:
  • similar summer compound yet wider tires than the Performance's; they both look better and also protect the
  • stronger, lighter, (subjectively) better looking aftermarket 19" rims, which are better suited for our pothole-rich area of town
  • a 1" higher suspension, again, better for our steep driveway departure, many speed bumps on our street, and all the potholes
  • smaller brakes, for better efficiency (we'll never track this car)
  • a spare/aero set of wheels and tires, for long distance road trips or as full size spares
  • a car that is visually very close to a Performance (true aficionados would notice the brake covers, the glossy carbon fiber spoiler, and the lack of underline in the Dual Motor badge; the wheels are not a good indicator, as many people replace wheels)
  • a car that is imperceptibly (to me) slower than the Performance
 
When I totaled my wife's TM3 AWD (I hit a curb and sufficiently gooned the suspension for my insurance to total it), we were torn between replacing it or upgrading to the Performance. In the end, we got another AWD with aero wheels and:

Bought a new set of 19" aftermarket rims and high performance 245/40 R19 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Plus tires ($2,000)
  • Bought the speed boost ($2,000)
  • Installed a carbon fiber spoiler ($300)
  • Installed wheel spacers, 15mm front and 20mm aft ($250)
  • Installed red brake covers, ($250)

So, for under $5,000 more than the AWD, we get:
  • similar summer compound yet wider tires than the Performance's; they both look better and also protect the
  • stronger, lighter, (subjectively) better looking aftermarket 19" rims, which are better suited for our pothole-rich area of town
  • a 1" higher suspension, again, better for our steep driveway departure, many speed bumps on our street, and all the potholes
  • smaller brakes, for better efficiency (we'll never track this car)
  • a spare/aero set of wheels and tires, for long distance road trips or as full size spares
  • a car that is visually very close to a Performance (true aficionados would notice the brake covers, the glossy carbon fiber spoiler, and the lack of underline in the Dual Motor badge; the wheels are not a good indicator, as many people replace wheels)
  • a car that is imperceptibly (to me) slower than the Performance

Come resale time, the Performance upgrade will have a decent value, the upgrade you did will be vaporized.

So in the end, you might even have paid more to not have a Performance.

Which might be ok for you, considering your wishes, but still, something to consider.