Is yours the normal AWD or the P3D with the larger brakes? I know there's a lip on the P3D hubs that makes them incompatible with a large portion of the wheels out there.
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18x9.5 are out for me right now for cost reasons, but Hankook makes a RS4 in 245/40-18 that would work on the 8.5" wheels. 8/10" shorter than stock, but that's probably not a bad thing right?
I've got the regular AWD. I know about the infamous "lip" though. I'm not convinced that one even needs hub centric rings but I have heard of people getting custom ones made to fit the P3D. Another option is to use a 4mm spacer and regular hub centric rings or get MPP front rotors which are 4mm thicker.Is yours the normal AWD or the P3D with the larger brakes? I know there's a lip on the P3D hubs that makes them incompatible with a large portion of the wheels out there.
18x9.5 doesn't have to be expensive, here's what I have run in the past. Shorter can be a bit of an issue depending on how low the car gets, I've have some rubbing issues on track with a 255/35/18.
4-New 18" Enkei Raijin Wheels 18x9.5 5x114.3 35 Hyper Silver Rims | eBay
Those only fit with a minor grinding mod to the rear P3D+ caliper though, right?
I am currently trying to decide on a new track setup. I just sold my 19x9.5 Enkei TFR with RE71R because I wanted a new setup.
I thought I'd go with an 18" setup but getting the tire size right seems tricky, and getting a cost effective AND lightweight wheel that works with the P3D+ is trickier. As it stands, I'm going to end up at Laguna Seca next week with everything BUT a track wheel setup...
That’s right, you do need to grind down the rear caliper a bit to make them fit P3D+ rear brakes. I agree though, the track tire selection that matches the OEM rolling diameter leaves a lot to be desired...
Apex EC-7 18x9.5 ET35 Mustang Wheels may be a good option. I don't have any affiliation with them but it seems to match what you're looking for based on the the following:
I know a few mustang owners who use them in race group, meaning they can take abuse from heavy cars.
- Fit P3D+ calipers
- Clear P3D+ hub lips
- Under $1300
If you go this route you'll need 4mm spacers for the front wheels to clear the spindle; wider if you get a super wide tire with a lot of bulge. (Don't do this.)
Also they're not hubcentric. This won't affect performance but if it's a concern hub rings are easily found. @MasterC17 put on a good thread with a parts list here: P3D on 18 x 9.5" APEX EC-7 Wheels & 275mm Tires
A quick word on tires - wider is not always better. Get something appropriately sized to the wheel. Manufacturers sometimes fudge their labeled section widths so look for actual measured section widths and go for just a little bit of stretch. I promise you'll be faster and have better steering response than if you stuff too-wide tires onto too-narrow rims.
Good luck!
You'll find myriad opinions on this.
RE71 is a great tire. Word on the street is that it wears fairly quickly. Main benefits are great dry grip and legality for autocross. Some reports of this tire getting a bit slick by the end of a hot HPDE session, but I've heard conflicting opinions on this. Similar performance would be a BFG Rival S.
I run the Nitto NT01, which is a street-legal hard R-comp tire. This is the most popular tire in the advanced hpde groups around me (northern Cal). This tire is known for lasting a really long time. It probably has similar dry grip as the RE71. I've run it in maybe 15+ track days and grip has been very consistent. I drive them to and from the track, and regularly see 1.3g lateral g sustained on cornering. Similar tires would be the Maxxis RC1, and I guess maybe the Pilot Sport Cup 2, but nobody really uses that tire.
Lots of people will also recommend the Hankook RS3, which is a 200tw tire like the RE71, but lasts way longer like the NT01. It has a bit less dry grip than both, but is a good compromise. Of note is the Falken 615k+, which lots of crapcan drivers use because it has pretty good grip, lasts a long time (for endurance racing), and is cheap.
Main thing you'll want, though, is additional negative camber. On another similar thread, people were having to run their tires at 50psi or more to keep from rolling onto the sidewall. This means that with stock camber, you are not using the entire tread and thus losing grip. You're also wearing your tires unevenly.
What do you guys think about these wheels? Konig Hypergram, correct size, bolt pattern, and offset (18x9.5, ET35 5x114.3). Flow forged, like the Apex wheels...but a lot cheaper at $193 vs $320. They are kinda fugly but I don't care what they look like. Also...17.4 lbs...WOW if true. 73.1 hub bore, looks like I'd have no problem finding 64.1 to 73.1 hub rings (LINK).
https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/konig-hypergram
Any way to tell if these would require caliper grinding other than to test fit them?
If those would work, I'd be looking at about 45.5 lbs per corner including the RS4 tire, vs the stock 52 lbs per corner as weighed by MasterC17 in that linked thread. I'm also losing an additional 3 lbs per corner with the new RB rotors I'm installing soon. So that's about a 10 lb per corner total reduction.
**edit - looks like Discount's page is wrong again, MFG states they are 19.4 lbs instead of 17.4. Still pretty light, 5 lb per wheel/tire reduction and 3 lb per rotor reduction.
Hypergram - Konig Wheels
Bummer, RPF1's were on my short list for a track setup. A 9.5" wide wheel that's 17.4 lbs at that price point is hard to beat.When I asked Konig, they said hypergrams won't clear the brakes. Same for Enkei RPF01
Enkei PF01 do clear though
Didnt try any of these 3 this was just from research. Apex wasn't available when I did my custom order from Signature wheel