Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Track Tire/wheel Set Advice

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
18x9.5 are out for me right now for cost reasons, but Hankook makes a RS4 in 245/40-18 that would work on the 8.5" wheels. 8/10" shorter than stock, but that's probably not a bad thing right?

18x9.5 doesn't have to be expensive, here's what I have run in the past. Shorter can be a bit of an issue depending on how low the car gets, I've have some rubbing issues on track with a 255/35/18.

4-New 18" Enkei Raijin Wheels 18x9.5 5x114.3 35 Hyper Silver Rims | eBay
 
  • Informative
Reactions: SD_Engnr
Is yours the normal AWD or the P3D with the larger brakes? I know there's a lip on the P3D hubs that makes them incompatible with a large portion of the wheels out there.
I've got the regular AWD. I know about the infamous "lip" though. I'm not convinced that one even needs hub centric rings but I have heard of people getting custom ones made to fit the P3D. Another option is to use a 4mm spacer and regular hub centric rings or get MPP front rotors which are 4mm thicker.
The diameter of the lip is 69.7mm (don't quote me on that, got it from another thread) so the Enkei Raijin wheels @Odiemac recommended will fit as they have a 72.6mm center bore.
 
18x9.5 doesn't have to be expensive, here's what I have run in the past. Shorter can be a bit of an issue depending on how low the car gets, I've have some rubbing issues on track with a 255/35/18.

4-New 18" Enkei Raijin Wheels 18x9.5 5x114.3 35 Hyper Silver Rims | eBay

Those only fit with a minor grinding mod to the rear P3D+ caliper though, right?

I am currently trying to decide on a new track setup. I just sold my 19x9.5 Enkei TFR with RE71R because I wanted a new setup.
I thought I'd go with an 18" setup but getting the tire size right seems tricky, and getting a cost effective AND lightweight wheel that works with the P3D+ is trickier. As it stands, I'm going to end up at Laguna Seca next week with everything BUT a track wheel setup...
 
Those only fit with a minor grinding mod to the rear P3D+ caliper though, right?

I am currently trying to decide on a new track setup. I just sold my 19x9.5 Enkei TFR with RE71R because I wanted a new setup.
I thought I'd go with an 18" setup but getting the tire size right seems tricky, and getting a cost effective AND lightweight wheel that works with the P3D+ is trickier. As it stands, I'm going to end up at Laguna Seca next week with everything BUT a track wheel setup...

That’s right, you do need to grind down the rear caliper a bit to make them fit P3D+ rear brakes. I agree though, the track tire selection that matches the OEM rolling diameter leaves a lot to be desired...
 
That’s right, you do need to grind down the rear caliper a bit to make them fit P3D+ rear brakes. I agree though, the track tire selection that matches the OEM rolling diameter leaves a lot to be desired...

I like the 265/35-19, but thought maybe going with more sidewall in an 18 would be better. But no such luck in finding a 265/40 that's suitable.
 
I'm not really into grinding, want to find something that fits without modification.

I'm thinking 18x8.5 with a 245/40-18. Been reading some not-so-great things about the RE71R, which has the best range of sizes, so that seems to be the limiting factor. NT01 and RS4 are both available in 245/40-18, which seems to be the closest I can get to OEM diameter on a 8.5" wide wheel. 19" tire size options are worse.
 
Apex EC-7 18x9.5 ET35 Mustang Wheels may be a good option. I don't have any affiliation with them but it seems to match what you're looking for based on the the following:
  • Fit P3D+ calipers
  • Clear P3D+ hub lips
  • Under $1300
I know a few mustang owners who use them in race group, meaning they can take abuse from heavy cars.

If you go this route you'll need 4mm spacers for the front wheels to clear the spindle; wider if you get a super wide tire with a lot of bulge. (Don't do this.)

Also they're not hubcentric. This won't affect performance but if it's a concern hub rings are easily found. @MasterC17 put on a good thread with a parts list here: P3D on 18 x 9.5" APEX EC-7 Wheels & 275mm Tires

A quick word on tires - wider is not always better. Get something appropriately sized to the wheel. Manufacturers sometimes fudge their labeled section widths so look for actual measured section widths and go for just a little bit of stretch. I promise you'll be faster and have better steering response than if you stuff too-wide tires onto too-narrow rims.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Go 275/35R19 on 19x10. Everything is available in that size. It’s what Mountain Pass Performance runs on their car. They did say they got a small amount of rubbing while drifting though (opposite lock).
My TSW 18x9.5 have a huge barrel and would probably fit the rear brakes. How much more clearance do the P3D rear brakes require?
 
Apex EC-7 18x9.5 ET35 Mustang Wheels may be a good option. I don't have any affiliation with them but it seems to match what you're looking for based on the the following:
  • Fit P3D+ calipers
  • Clear P3D+ hub lips
  • Under $1300
I know a few mustang owners who use them in race group, meaning they can take abuse from heavy cars.

If you go this route you'll need 4mm spacers for the front wheels to clear the spindle; wider if you get a super wide tire with a lot of bulge. (Don't do this.)

Also they're not hubcentric. This won't affect performance but if it's a concern hub rings are easily found. @MasterC17 put on a good thread with a parts list here: P3D on 18 x 9.5" APEX EC-7 Wheels & 275mm Tires

A quick word on tires - wider is not always better. Get something appropriately sized to the wheel. Manufacturers sometimes fudge their labeled section widths so look for actual measured section widths and go for just a little bit of stretch. I promise you'll be faster and have better steering response than if you stuff too-wide tires onto too-narrow rims.

Good luck!

I think this is exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the link! Found some comments in that thread that 265/40-18 fits on those wheels without spacers, which is even better. I think this is going to be the winner.

This leaves tire choice...NT01 or RS4. I'm leaving towards the RS4 based on cost, some googling about longer-term tire wear, RS4 seems to hold up better than the NT01. I can't find a measured tread width for the NT01 in this size, but the RS4 is 9.7", pretty close to the 9.5" wheel width.
 
20190615_111333.jpg
You'll find myriad opinions on this.

RE71 is a great tire. Word on the street is that it wears fairly quickly. Main benefits are great dry grip and legality for autocross. Some reports of this tire getting a bit slick by the end of a hot HPDE session, but I've heard conflicting opinions on this. Similar performance would be a BFG Rival S.

I run the Nitto NT01, which is a street-legal hard R-comp tire. This is the most popular tire in the advanced hpde groups around me (northern Cal). This tire is known for lasting a really long time. It probably has similar dry grip as the RE71. I've run it in maybe 15+ track days and grip has been very consistent. I drive them to and from the track, and regularly see 1.3g lateral g sustained on cornering. Similar tires would be the Maxxis RC1, and I guess maybe the Pilot Sport Cup 2, but nobody really uses that tire.

Lots of people will also recommend the Hankook RS3, which is a 200tw tire like the RE71, but lasts way longer like the NT01. It has a bit less dry grip than both, but is a good compromise. Of note is the Falken 615k+, which lots of crapcan drivers use because it has pretty good grip, lasts a long time (for endurance racing), and is cheap.

Main thing you'll want, though, is additional negative camber. On another similar thread, people were having to run their tires at 50psi or more to keep from rolling onto the sidewall. This means that with stock camber, you are not using the entire tread and thus losing grip. You're also wearing your tires unevenly.

Agree with pretty much everything you said there. I might add though that the re71 also has great steering feedback, and predictability at the limit which is part of why people like driving it on the track so much. In other words it's not a snap through breakaway tire at all, and when you combine that with very high limits - but frankly crappy treadwear/longevity - you get a very popular if rather expensive/track session solution.

As far as the camber issue goes keep in mind that if you lower the car about an inch you pick up roughly a degree of negative camber on the front. So if you get the Mountain Pass Sports coilovers and drop the car and inch and a half, if you started out with a -0.5 degrees camber (which as we've seen is not nearly enough and with the stock PS4 is is going to mean you shred your tires) that extra 1.2 to 1.5 negative puts you in really in a good ballpark at that point of almost two degrees negative camber. I'm going to confirm all this when I get my sports coilovers installed later today. In fact the car is sitting in the shop getting work done as we speak. Excited to see how it turns out!
 
Last edited:
What do you guys think about these wheels? Konig Hypergram, correct size, bolt pattern, and offset (18x9.5, ET35 5x114.3). Flow forged, like the Apex wheels...but a lot cheaper at $193 vs $320. They are kinda fugly but I don't care what they look like. Also...17.4 lbs...WOW if true. 73.1 hub bore, looks like I'd have no problem finding 64.1 to 73.1 hub rings (LINK).

https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/konig-hypergram

Any way to tell if these would require caliper grinding other than to test fit them?

If those would work, I'd be looking at about 45.5 lbs per corner including the RS4 tire, vs the stock 52 lbs per corner as weighed by MasterC17 in that linked thread. I'm also losing an additional 3 lbs per corner with the new RB rotors I'm installing soon. So that's about a 10 lb per corner total reduction.

**edit - looks like Discount's page is wrong again, MFG states they are 19.4 lbs instead of 17.4. Still pretty light, 5 lb per wheel/tire reduction and 3 lb per rotor reduction.
Hypergram - Konig Wheels
 
Last edited:
What do you guys think about these wheels? Konig Hypergram, correct size, bolt pattern, and offset (18x9.5, ET35 5x114.3). Flow forged, like the Apex wheels...but a lot cheaper at $193 vs $320. They are kinda fugly but I don't care what they look like. Also...17.4 lbs...WOW if true. 73.1 hub bore, looks like I'd have no problem finding 64.1 to 73.1 hub rings (LINK).

https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/konig-hypergram

Any way to tell if these would require caliper grinding other than to test fit them?

If those would work, I'd be looking at about 45.5 lbs per corner including the RS4 tire, vs the stock 52 lbs per corner as weighed by MasterC17 in that linked thread. I'm also losing an additional 3 lbs per corner with the new RB rotors I'm installing soon. So that's about a 10 lb per corner total reduction.

**edit - looks like Discount's page is wrong again, MFG states they are 19.4 lbs instead of 17.4. Still pretty light, 5 lb per wheel/tire reduction and 3 lb per rotor reduction.
Hypergram - Konig Wheels

I don't think they are fugly and have considered them. The problem is not knowing if they will clear the brakes, and/or if they fit the 14mm wheel studs.
 
When I asked Konig, they said hypergrams won't clear the brakes. Same for Enkei RPF01

Enkei PF01 do clear though

Didnt try any of these 3 this was just from research. Apex wasn't available when I did my custom order from Signature wheel
Bummer, RPF1's were on my short list for a track setup. A 9.5" wide wheel that's 17.4 lbs at that price point is hard to beat.
 
Went to Discount today, the guy initially said yes to ordering a wheel to test fit, then said he's pretty sure 18s won't fit (even though I told him some do), said he'd have to call Konig on Monday and get back to me. So if they already told @Lunares they wouldn't fit, pretty sure my guy is going to get the same answer. Oh well.
 
The lip only matters if you are buying hubcentric wheels. If they are overbored (72 bore and up), doesnt matter will clear it anyways.

@destructure00 make sure you test fit the rears and the front. It's actually the rear that is harder to clear from a brake point of view due to parking brake. Fronts matter more if you wanted super wide wheels.

I actually have a pair of XXR559s as my 3rd set of wheels (winter wheels) and only test fit the front which was no problem... only to find out the rears had <1mm clearance. Ended up grinding the caliper a bit.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: destructure00