You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
My reply got buried in your post, sorry.
I have exactly the same problem with my S75D / built 08/2019... I am currently on version 2020.32.3 but had the same problem on previous versions as well. It happens randomly but all lights and indicator are fine.And thanks for your help. I will definitely continue to push back especially if I can capture the error on video with the dascham unplugged. Shouldn't be too hard to capture as the error crops up within the first few minutes of a drive.
Also if I didn't live within a couple miles of a SC I would also be much more aggressive on this but it is fairly easy for me to be able to drop off my car.
I have exactly the same problem with my S75D / built 08/2019... I am currently on version 2020.32.3 but had the same problem on previous versions as well. It happens randomly but all lights and indicator are fine.
BTW I had both headlights changed (under warranty) but not because of the indicator fault... it was because of the LED running light turning yellow'ish'... but even after the headlights were changed I had the indicator error again yesterday... So it is not the headlights....
I haven't reported that yet to the Tesla SC yet but I might do this soon... I would be still interested if you have more information on your 'case'?
Now if they could only fix the 'AUTO' headlights always on in daylight issue...
Look in the user manual, the power in microphone grill is for optional alarm motion system (initially available only in Europe, but a retrofit kit sold at one point in the USA). There is a dedicated fuse for it. Easy way to prove if it affects turns signals, pull the fuse, show the dashcam is dead, and see if turn signals are still working - if they are, they are not on the same circuit.The SC just called me and told me it was because I was using a dashcam that tapped off the windshield break sensor in the microphone grille and that I would have to pay for a fix (even though under warranty).
I told them that doesn't make any sense because I have had the dashcam for years and the issue only cropped up a month ago. AND that I was like many others who install a dashcam that way and I haven't seen anyone else with the issue. They said that the sensor uses the same electrical circuit as the turn signals and that was their conclusion for the problem based on recent firmware updates that may cause it to do this. I said I would have expected others to have seen the same problem if that was the case.
Anyway, I am taking the car back home today and plan to do my own testing with video. I am hoping I can prove that the problem does appear with the dashcam unplugged (which they said it doesn't) and then may have to bring it a back a 5th time to compel them to fix under warranty.
Unless you know your car electronics well, going straight to the battery (through a new fuse of course) is always the safe bet. That's why some of the higher end 3rd party car equipment which requires switched 12V, provide 2 inputs, one for power straight from the battery (with its own fuse), and one for switched 12V which draws microscopic current, which drives a transistor which turns power on/off from the battery supply input.Just a warning for people that tries to install and pull power from existing wiring in the car... just don't. I had the digital license plate installed by their certified installer, and he tapped into existing wiring, and it caused my rear driver side window to stop functioning altogether. I didn't even know that it was caused by that until I took it into service center, and they uncovered the problem. Once they took off the wiring, window became fully operational again. I ended up having to pay for the diagnostic fee for two hours, which totally sucks.
The installer claims that he has done it this way for other S' no problem, which to be honest, I don't know what to believe. Having said that, just doing it right, and run the wiring to the battery. Safest to do so apparently.
Unless you know your car electronics well, going straight to the battery (through a new fuse of course) is always the safe bet. That's why some of the higher end 3rd party car equipment which requires switched 12V, provide 2 inputs, one for power straight from the battery (with its own fuse), and one for switched 12V which draws microscopic current, which drives a transistor which turns power on/off from the battery supply input.
Unfortunately a lot of older cars did not have many electronics/computers, so some installers got used to the fact that if they found 12V anywhere, they can just connect to it. An installer "certified" by the digital license plate distributor doesn't mean certified by Tesla, HOWEVER, if it's a reputable distributor, they might warranty their installations by their certified installers, therefore you might be able to get them to cover part or all of the Tesla bill to fix what the installer did.
lemon law time....hahahahaThe saga continues...
Brought the car in for the 3rd time and this time they replaced the left front headlamp. Said that since the left and right signal were on the same circuit and they think the headlamp was the problem, this should fix the fault I was getting on both. Any takers on what happened next?
Few days later, the fault is back. Replaced FBC and left headlamp did nothing to resolve. Now scheduled for my 4th visit to the SC for this issue. Really starting to get frustrated.
No, the SC has not been able to duplicate the issue. It does not happen every time so i am not surprised. It does happen pretty often though. Especially when it is cold.
I will check the connections in the mic grill area just to make sure something is not loose. I also have a thumb drive inserted in the USB port in the console for the Tesla dashcam. I wonder if that could be the issue.
Thanks for the reply.
Nope, not resolved for me. SC said it was a known issue and they Tesla, would fix it at some point with a software upgrade. It seems to be happening even more frequently with me now. Moisture still seems to be the common thread for my issue.Hello All,
So, I also have a 2017 December MS. Last July I upgraded my MCU and got the HW3, about two weeks later I also received Turn Signal Light Fault. Now for the last year I have taken the car in just finished the 5th appointment last week. Picked the car you on Thursday and they replaced all the headlights and signals. By Saturday the error was happening again.
I don’t know what to do I am so over this issue. Is it now time for Lemon Law? I’m tired of not having a car for a week taking time off work to get or pickup.
Did you ever get it resolved?
Hello All,
So, I also have a 2017 December MS. Last July I upgraded my MCU and got the HW3, about two weeks later I also received Turn Signal Light Fault. Now for the last year I have taken the car in just finished the 5th appointment last week. Picked the car you on Thursday and they replaced all the headlights and signals. By Saturday the error was happening again.
I don’t know what to do I am so over this issue. Is it now time for Lemon Law? I’m tired of not having a car for a week taking time off work to get or pickup.
Did you ever get it resolved?