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Update on replacing OEM 12v lead-acid battery with lithium?

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The charging protocol and float voltage of a 12V AGM battery are not the same as for the flooded lead-acid battery.
While technically true, I'd argue from a practical standpoint the charging/float voltage doesn't matter.

Every ICE vehicle, boat, tractor I've owned got an AGM when the factory FLA dies. I've never considered changing charging parameters and never had a problem. The AGM's always last longer then FLA, even with the wrong charging voltage.

I replaced the battery in my tractor 12-13 years ago with a Miata U1R AGM from batterymart.com. Still going strong. I ran a West Marine group 24 AGM in my boat for 7 years before I decided I was pushing my luck and changed it.
 
The difference in the Tesla is it’s trying to actively manage and monitor the battery. So I’m not sure if an AGM would actually get the same life improvement in the Tesla. And since AGM has a 1.5-2x price premium I’m not sure it’s worth it.

Yes. I’ve put AGM in other cars and boats and had good luck with them.
 
The difference in the Tesla is it’s trying to actively manage and monitor the battery. So I’m not sure if an AGM would actually get the same life improvement in the Tesla. And since AGM has a 1.5-2x price premium I’m not sure it’s worth it.

Yes. I’ve put AGM in other cars and boats and had good luck with them.
It might not get any life improvement, but also would unlikely to do worse. The large Car AGMs available at auto parts stores seem to tolerate flooded battery charge protocols just fine. I have never heard of anyone switching their car to AGM mode when swapping one in place of a flooded. They are designed to be a drop in replacement.

Of course YMMV if talking about smaller device AGM batteries. Those may not be designed to tolerate the variations in car charging circuits.
 
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+1 on this. If you have a front end collision, there is a risk a Li ion battery could get damaged and catch fire which should not happen with the lead acid.
A lead acid battery can still cause a fire by a short caused by the accident. There can also be a build-up of hydrogen gas if it was not properly vented and sparks from a crash may ignite it.
 
A lead acid battery can still cause a fire by a short caused by the accident. There can also be a build-up of hydrogen gas if it was not properly vented and sparks from a crash may ignite it.
Sure but that scenario is an extremely rare occurrence in real world applications (actual car fires caused by a crash igniting unvented hydrogen gas). The main Tesla pack is structurally protected to prevent damage to cells that could lead to thermal runaway and resultant fire. Putting in an aftermarket Lithium ion battery where the engineers at Tesla did not intend it seems…dumb.
 
Tesla's decision to originally use a flooded lead-acid 12V battery in the Tesla Models S, X, 3, and also the Model Y meant that Tesla was required to locate the 12V battery under the hood, in front of the firewall for passenger safety. The plastic case of a flooded lead-acid battery can rupture as a result of a collision and spray caustic battery acid all around. If Tesla had used an absorbent glass matt (AGM) type 12V battery or the now Tesla standard lithium 15.5V low voltage battery they could have located the low voltage battery beneath the second row seat or under the floor of the rear hatch. Most plastic materials, fluids under the hood of an automobile are flammable (not just oil and gas.) Brake fluid is flammable. Automotive coolant is flammable; not sure about Tesla coolant.
 
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Tesla's decision to originally use a flooded lead-acid 12V battery in the Tesla Models S, X, 3, and also the Model Y meant that Tesla was required to locate the 12V battery under the hood, in front of the firewall for passenger safety. The plastic case of a flooded lead-acid battery can rupture as a result of a collision and spray caustic battery acid all around. If Tesla had used an absorbent glass matt (AGM) type 12V battery or the now Tesla standard lithium 15.5V low voltage battery they could have located the low voltage battery beneath the second row seat or under the floor of the rear hatch. Most plastic materials, fluids under the hood of an automobile are flammable (not just oil and gas.) Brake fluid is flammable; not sure about Tesla coolant.
Not doubting your sources. And I'm about to show my age and how safety standards have changed over the years, but: My '71 VW Beetle kept its 12V battery under the rear seat.

And the 2010 Prius, Gen III that I had for a decade kept its AGM battery in the trunk, right rear. That's a hatchback, so it was inside the passenger compartment.

So, not sure that this is a passenger safety issue.
 
The original VW Beetle, Ghia etc. could not be built, sold today (i.e. placing an ~8 gallon gas tank practically in your lap just behind the windscreen LOL!) The 12V lead-acid battery (originally a 6V battery) was famous for leaking battery acid; the acid eventually eating through the floor of the Beetle around the battery. In an accident if the case of an AGM battery ruptures it cannot leak or spray enough battery acid electrolyte to be a hazard to the passengers. There is an overpressure relief valve in a 12V AGM battery that will release any built up gases in the event of being severely overcharged or in a fire. The vent tube must be run outside the passenger compartment (the hatch area is considered part of the passenger compartment.)

GM used a 12V AGM battery in the Chevy Volt and Chevy Bolt. The Volt's AGM battery was located under the hatch floor while the Chevy Bolt's 12V AGM battery is located under the hood. The Toyota Prius uses a 12V AGM battery, not sure of the location.

Late 1990s ~ 2000 is 25 years ago; There have been hundreds of new DOT vehicle safety regulations since then.

In our family we had a mid-70s GM vehicle with an AC Delco Freedom 12V starter battery. This was an early attempt at a sealed, maintenance free (MF) battery that never needed to have water added to the cells. The Freedom battery exploded violently one day when starting the vehicle due to a build up of hydrogen that did not vent. Luckily no one was injured and this did not result in a vehicle fire. The engine compartment was showered with battery acid; was fine once it was rinsed off.
 
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Tesla's decision to originally use a flooded lead-acid 12V battery in the Tesla Models S, X, 3, and also the Model Y meant that Tesla was required to locate the 12V battery under the hood, in front of the firewall for passenger safety.
I don't know when Tesla made the dubious decision to switch from AGM to FLA 12V batteries, but the original S's definitely used an AGM. The Tesla supplied second and third 12V's in my 2014 S were AGM. See photo below - dirty one is #2, clean one is its replacement, #3

1702477747040.png
 
Late 1990s ~ 2000 is 25 years ago; There have been hundreds of new DOT vehicle safety regulations since then.
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards are developed and enforced by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration - not the Department of Transportation. I am unaware of any part of FMVSS that regulates the location of a low-voltage battery. Can you point me to the applicable standard so that I can gain knowledge?
 
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards are developed and enforced by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration - not the Department of Transportation. I am unaware of any part of FMVSS that regulates the location of a low-voltage battery. Can you point me to the applicable standard so that I can gain knowledge?
Maybe not regulated but found this:

https://knowhow.napaonline.com/where-is-my-car-battery/

Considerations for 12V battery placement in a vehicle include weight distribution, heat, vibration, ventilation and battery cable length. In a conventional vehicle with a gas or diesel engine the starter battery should be located close to the starter motor to keep the battery cabling as short as practical for maximum power delivery to the starter motor. In an electric vehicle, hybrid or plug-in hybrid there is more flexibility in the length of the low voltage battery cables as the power demand is much less.

An AGM battery is more expensive (approximately 2X more) than the cost of a conventional flooded lead acid battery. Automobile manufacturers would not spend a penny more than necessary when specifying any component; that penny pinching is true for the smallest bolt up to the 12V battery and every other component used in the vehicle.

In today's vehicles if there are locations where a conventional lead acid battery could be used instead of an AGM battery then it would make sense, save cost to do so. I don't know why GM chose to use a 12V AGM battery in the Chevy Bolt, located under the hood, but they did specify a 12V AGM battery with a connection for an external vent tube for the Chevy Volt. The Chevy Volt 12V AGM battery is located under the floor of the rear hatch storage area. AGM batteries are more common today, available in more sizes.

Originally AGM batteries such as the Optima battery were developed for use in construction and earth moving equipment, off-road vehicle applications. The construction of an AGM battery results in superior protection from damage due to vibration. An AGM battery is much more resistant to vibration compared to a conventional 12V flooded lead-acid battery. Secondary benefits include being able to be installed in any orientation to fit tight spaces, being maintenance free and being resistant to freezing. An AGM battery will typically have slightly reduced peak power delivery capability when compared with a similar group size conventional battery.
 
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Considerations for 12V battery placement in a vehicle include weight distribution, heat, vibration, ventilation and battery cable length. In a conventional vehicle with a gas or diesel engine the starter battery should be located close to the starter motor to keep the battery cabling as short as practical for maximum power delivery to the starter motor.
BMW and Dodge as two examples, didn't get the memo. They still install batteries in trunks. :)
 
I don't know when Tesla made the dubious decision to switch from AGM to FLA 12V batteries, but the original S's definitely used an AGM. The Tesla supplied second and third 12V's in my 2014 S were AGM. See photo below - dirty one is #2, clean one is its replacement, #3

View attachment 998931
I wouldn't say it's dubious. It's drastically less expensive and the AGM doesn't provide much of an advantage of you weren't planning to mount it in the cabin anyways.
 
BMW and Dodge as two examples, didn't get the memo. They still install batteries in trunks. :)
A large engine takes up more space under the hood. The engine generates lots of waste heat and vibration. The trunk may be the better, only location for the 12V starter battery even considering the longer cables. (May help slightly with weight distribution.)
 
A large engine takes up more space under the hood. The engine generates lots of waste heat and vibration. The trunk may be the better, only location for the 12V starter battery even considering the longer cables. (May help slightly with weight distribution.)
It’s for better weight distribution. Opposite of the motor and lower CG
 
I have spent about a week and several hours trying to figure out why a 50 amp hour Lithium Iron Phosphate battery, even when fully charged at install time, gets a low voltage condition and pops up the "12 volt battery must be replaced" error within a few hours of installation, whether you are driving or not, and even if the car is parked AND plugged in!!!

After going through the full cycle of three times of fully charging the battery, shutting the car down, disconnecting the high voltage, and then reconnecting the fully charge lithium battery - and then watching carefully what happens, I can say with 100% certainty that this is a Tesla software problem - and it really looks like they are purposely draining the battery to cause the error condition!!

Here's the details.

1) I purchased a 12.8 volt 50 amp hour battery. I have fully drained it and fully recharged it three times. I've recharged it with two old standard 12 volt battery chargers, and in with both chargers the battery ends up fully charged and at around 13.8 volts.

2) If you power down the car, disconnect the high voltage, connect the 12v battery and turn on the high voltage again, the error message will be cleared and it looks like everything is good.

HOWEVER, the first time I did this, I went on a two and half hour drive and about two hours into the drive the same "12 volt battery error came up" . I finished the last 30 minutes of the drive and immediately turned on service mode on the car so I could observe what was going on - and I was surprised to see that the car was pulling 20 amps continuously out of the battery, even when parked, and the voltage was still at 12.8 volts. HMMM, why is it pulling such a high current out of the 12 volt battery when there's still lots of power in the main battery. So while watching what's going on, I then plugged in the Tesla charger and continued to watch. AND EVEN WITH THE CHARGER PLUGGED IN --- IT CONTINUED TO DRAW 20 amps from the 12v for about another hour (at which point it had been pulling 20 amps for about 2.5 hours). Since the battery is 50 amp hours, drawing 20 amps for 2.5 hours is all you're going to get from the battery, at which point the voltage dropped to 12.3 volts, and thankfully the Tesla stopped pulling 20 amps and the battery just sat there at 12.3 volts. Now this is with the CAR PLUGGED IN AND CHARGING. It WILL NOT CHARGE THE 12 volt battery, even though I left it overnight charging. The high voltage completely charges, but it refuses to charge the 12 volt battery. THIS IS CLEARLY INSANITY.

3) So, being stubborn, it was about 4:30 in the afternoon, I disconnected the 12volt battery from the Tesla and I plugged in a standard 12 volt battery charger that charged at 5 amps. Starting at 12.3 volts and 6 hours of charging, the battery was back to 13.3 volts after about 6 hours and I left it charging overnight. In the morning, the charger was reporting it was fully charged and with the charger disconnected the voltage showed 13.85 volts. So I went through the routine of reinstalling it and power cycling the Tesla, and just like the first time I did it, the Tesla powered up and the error cleared.

4) This time I just sat and watched what the Tesla did. The battery is at 13.8 volts. The Tesla pretty quickly tries to charge the 12v battery, and it quickly climbs for 13.8 volts to 14.8 volts (which is the maximum charge voltage allowed by the 12v battery BMS). At which point the charging current goes to zero and the charging stops. A few seconds later the Tesla puts a 17 amp load on the battery and the voltage quickly drops down to 13.8 volts, and then the Tesla stops discharging the battery and tries to charge it up again.
5) Same pattern repeats.... and repeats.... and repeats. I'm estimating about 20 times the battery is cycled between 13.8 and 14.8 volts. After which it quits trying to charge it higher. After watching it another 5 minutes or so I quit watching it. And started doing some other things. The car was just sitting in the garage doing nothing and it was plugged into the charger, but not charging because it was fully charged to the limit.
6) A couple hours later I came back to check on the car. And even though the car was sitting there plugged in - when got in the car -- the error message had reappeared again!!! And when I looked at what going on with the battery the Tesla was doing the 20 amp draw down again (even though plugged in to the Tesla charger) but the voltage was still a healthy 13.0 volts. After another 45 minutes of 20 amp drain the battery is still holding at 12.8 volts. But I know it's going to keep pulling a constant 20 amps until the battery is at 12.3 volts. THIS IS WHILE THE CAR IS PLUGGED IN. THIS IS INSANITY.

This is clearly either a really poorly written software, or they are purposely killing 12 volt lithium batteries. The behavior of pulling 20 amps for 2.5 hours EVEN WHILE PLUGGED IN just makes zero logical sense that this is just a bug. It's 2024, the battery I'm using is an awesome battery and is most definitely 50 amp hours of which 95% of the time the voltage stays above 12.8 volts, and a Tesla Model 3 doesn't handle it - even though every other car I own and have switched to Lithium works just fine??? Tesla - this is clearly a software problem that needs to be fixed!!! The way the car just one day pops and error message and is immediately degraded and you can't charge your phone battery is AWFUL PRODUCT DESIGN.

Any other thoughts on this?
 
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Sure. Seems like all of your headaches would go away if you just used the correct battery and stopped trying to out-engineer the engineers.

But I'm just an engineer, so what do I know? ;)
I'm an engineer too, which lots of expertise in electronics and software, so I know enough to recognize stupid software when I see stupid software.

Tesla designs their software with the assumption that you always have connectivity and if Tesla denies you power you have an alternative. I live in the mountains where it gets cold and I had my 12 volt battery decide to throw the low voltage error when I was in the middle of nowhere and my cell phone battery was super low. I normally charge my cell phone when I'm driving, so when this happened to me, and the Tesla decides to disable the USB chargers in the car (which is pure stupidity again, because there's no way the current being drained by the USB charger could possibly impact anything. ) So when a car can do this to you when you're hours away from any kind of help it's kind of a jarring experience that I will try to make sure doesn't happen again.

All my other cars, one of which is 20 years old I was able to install lithium batteries with zero issues. To avoid this potential bad situation again, I decided to upgrade to lithium so I don't have to replace completely obsolete 75 year old battery technology every two years. Of all the companies in the world that should be able to handle a Lithium battery I would suspect Tesla would be the one to handle it the best.

SURPRISINGLY NOT YET. But I know this is just a software update to fix, and software updates are something Tesla is excellent at. The technology exists to very inexpensive not have to run into this issue for 10 years. Explain to me why Tesla should address this issue?
 
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