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[Chetanh]

Question regarding the Lc7

Do we connect the output from the rear door speakers (L and R) to the main input of the LC and the front door speakers (L and R) to the Channel 2 of the LC or the other way round (Front goes to Main and Rear goes to Channel 2)

Also,
Do you connect the main output from the LC to rear input(LR) of the of the amp and Channel 2 to the front (LR) or the other way round (Main to front and Channel 2 to rear)?

I am assuming that the Channel 3 output goes into the sub input of the amp but nothing is connected to the input of channel 3.

If i buy a 4 channel amp (for size), can i combine the wire from the penthouse and the output from the loc into a single wire and connect it directly into the sub?

 

[Chetanh]

Asked Telsa for a quote on the sub. This is what they sent me (WTF):


1026853-S0-B - REAR GLASS KIT ASSEMBLY - SERVICE 605.00

 

[Kevy Baby]

Asked Telsa for a quote on the sub. This is what they sent me (WTF):


1026853-S0-B - REAR GLASS KIT ASSEMBLY - SERVICE 605.00

Well, at least the got the right half of the car...

 

[m3tez]

Well I just got my replacement amp, thanks to the quick delivery of Amazon Prime. But unfortunately it has the exact same hissing issue. I’m not sure if it’s just me being sensitive to this hissing sound. When I’m playing music it sounds great, and I can’t hear the hiss. But as soon as I stop the music and am somewhere reasonably quiet I can hear the hiss (even from the front seats). Oh well... maybe I’ll try a different brand amp...

 

[m3tez]

Well I just got my replacement amp, thanks to the quick delivery of Amazon Prime. But unfortunately it has the exact same hissing issue. I’m not sure if it’s just me being sensitive to this hissing sound. When I’m playing music it sounds great, and I can’t hear the hiss. But as soon as I stop the music and am somewhere reasonably quiet I can hear the hiss (even from the front seats). Oh well... maybe I’ll try a different brand amp...

From reading various websites I think this hiss has to do with this Class D amp having a signal to noise ratio of 70dB. If you look at the Pioneer GM-9705, it has a SNR of 94dB.

 

[Wampa]

Well I just got my replacement amp, thanks to the quick delivery of Amazon Prime. But unfortunately it has the exact same hissing issue. I’m not sure if it’s just me being sensitive to this hissing sound. When I’m playing music it sounds great, and I can’t hear the hiss. But as soon as I stop the music and am somewhere reasonably quiet I can hear the hiss (even from the front seats). Oh well... maybe I’ll try a different brand amp...

I was re-installing my trim today and when I jostled one of the input wires at the B-pillar I noticed some static noise. I'm assuming this is due to a bad connection at the input, may be worth looking at your connection there to make sure everything is solid. This happened with the music on mute.

 

[m3tez]

I was re-installing my trim today and when I jostled one of the input wires at the B-pillar I noticed some static noise. I'm assuming this is due to a bad connection at the input, may be worth looking at your connection there to make sure everything is solid. This happened with the music on mute.

I’ve tried disconnecting the inputs to the amp though and still have the hiss.

 

[Chetanh]

Asked Telsa for a quote on the sub. This is what they sent me (WTF):


1026853-S0-B - REAR GLASS KIT ASSEMBLY - SERVICE 605.00

OK, so finally got the revised quote, the sub is $295 CAD including taxes (parts only)

 

[AdamMacDon]

OK, so finally got the revised quote, the sub is $295 CAD including taxes (parts only)

Does that include the mounting screws too?

 

[Chetanh]

Dont know if this includes it, but this is what they gave me

1079747-00-D-AUDIO,SPEAKER,SUBWOOFER,ASY

 

[AdamMacDon]

Dont know if this includes it, but this is what they gave me

1079747-00-D-AUDIO,SPEAKER,SUBWOOFER,ASY

Cool, lemme know what you get when the part arrives. I'm kinda surprised they were willing to sell you the part, honestly.

 

[yomesamo]

Is there a compact amp that supports a sub and can be fitted under the rear seats?

 

[ElectricEel]

Is there a compact amp that supports a sub and can be fitted under the rear seats?

Just a sub? Yea there a bunch, this is the typical form factor. A little flatter than a standard mason brick You could actually put this behind the passenger side backseat cushion(between the seat and door)

I recommend this one as you can tap into the front door woofer on that side to get your line in and use the amp 'line detection setting' instead of running a separate 12v switch line. And you'll be super close to the pent house power line for a short power run.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioc...f8_s-r5itBIHr7oxlGDhk_D9KSlzXSSIaAsnFEALw_wcB

 

[newtonfb]

I started to tackle this today and ran all the wires to the back of the car. I connected up the 12v and rear shelf speakers. I am stuck at the part to tap into the B-pillar wires. They are the ones that are taped together closest to the backseat correct? I cannot find a Red cable on my driver side to tap into. Why exactly do we need to tap into the b pillar speaker again? I am just looking to activate rear shelf and maybe down the road activate tweeters as I ran the wires...but like most say, you can tell much difference.

 

[Wampa]

I started to tackle this today and ran all the wires to the back of the car. I connected up the 12v and rear shelf speakers. I am stuck at the part to tap into the B-pillar wires. They are the ones that are taped together closest to the backseat correct? I cannot find a Red cable on my driver side to tap into. Why exactly do we need to tap into the b pillar speaker again?

The B-Pillar speakers are the easiest places to get left and right speaker signals for the rear deck. This is primarily because they are tied to the rear, and will operate with the fader controls. They will be taped and twisted around each other, and are quite thin. They were tough to tap into.

Here is a photo taken from the TOO forum showing the red wire on the driver side. It will be covered up by tape.

 

[newtonfb]

The B-Pillar speakers are the easiest places to get left and right speaker signals for the rear deck. This is primarily because they are tied to the rear, and will operate with the fader controls. They will be taped and twisted around each other, and are quite thin. They were tough to tap into.

Here is a photo taken from the TOO forum showing the red wire on the driver side. It will be covered up by tape.

View attachment 458838

That's the 12v wire correct? I am talking about the middle pillar (b) to tap into..near the rear seats. Unless I'm getting my pillars mixed up

 

[Wampa]

That's the 12v wire correct? I am talking about the middle pillar (b) to tap into..near the rear seats. Unless I'm getting my pillars mixed up

Oh sorry I thought 'red wire driver side' meant 12v switched. Anyhow that is the correct spot for the speaker inputs, and will be tied up with a black wire. I accessed the wires both sides from the front side of the pillar.

 

[newtonfb]

Oh sorry I thought 'red wire driver side' meant 12v switched. Anyhow that is the correct spot for the speaker inputs, and will be tied up with a black wire. I accessed the wires both sides from the front side of the pillar.

Ok that's my problem I was going rear side. Thanks.

 

[m3tez]

From reading various websites I think this hiss has to do with this Class D amp having a signal to noise ratio of 70dB. If you look at the Pioneer GM-9705, it has a SNR of 94dB.

Just an update, I tried the Pioneer GM-9705 amp and it also has the same hissing issue. So looks like my issue is not related to the SNR.

 

[m3tez]

@Wampa have you tried connecting the front mirror tweeters yet?