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I would assume that that would be completely up to the financial institution that you financed through and the terms of your loan.Anyone know if financing of the car is transferrable to another individual any time?
I would assume that that would be completely up to the financial institution that you financed through and the terms of your loan.
Are you considering turning your lease in and transferring it to a Model 3 later?Anyone know if financing of the car is transferrable to another individual any time?
Are you considering turning your lease in and transferring it to a Model 3 later?
I would start with a detailed listing, with pictures, right here on TMC. Don't expect to get all the cost of the extras, although one never knows.I'm a first time Tesla owner with my M3 and if I would have known how much I was going to love it I would've held out for the Performance version. I put $5.5k into it getting a clear PPF full wrap and ceramic coating as well. Does anyone have any recommendations for the easiest (and lowest expense) way to sell the car?
Thanks! I'll take some pics and post.I would start with a detailed listing, with pictures, right here on TMC. Don't expect to get all the cost of the extras, although one never knows.
The fact is preowned Tesla prices are too high. I think this high resale will continue with the Model 3's. I would not buy a preowned Tesla because I think new ones are better deals; like really financially better to buy new. This is true for many Porsches as well.
There are brands where buying used (for most of their models) doesn't make sense and Tesla is one such brand. Except the highest performance models, you don't actually save much money by buying a 2-3 year old Tesla vs. new if you hold for 5 years. Whatever "savings" is simply due to the fact you would by driving an older car. The difference is just not worth it for me.
This goes for most Porsches as well. Pre-owned 911s, Panameras or even many Cayennes are just too expensive such that the depreciation + maintenance cost of a 3 year old version isn't really materially better than new.
Such weird situations are due to the fact that these cars are soo highly sought after. People like them and continue to want them either new or used but most people really cannot afford them new. So they have choice but buy pre-owned (lower monthly payments). But really if they do the calculation, they don't actually save much compared to new... but obviously you need to be able to take on the larger cash outflow buying the new car in order to buy the new car.
In conclusion, there are cars that you should definitely never buy new, because you save SOOO much buying used (e.g., luxury sedans or suvs, even slightly used, save a bunch). But there are also cars where you really don't save much buying used, but end up driving an older car, with older tech, worse performance, and having to pay higher maintenance. I think at this point, Teslas are in the 2nd group.
F150s and Wranglers are in that boat of "only buy new". I researched for a few months and eventually ordered a Wrangler from a dealer with every option I wanted and just had to wait 6 weeks for it to be built. Sticker was around $36K, I paid just over $33K for it. Unfortunately I totaled it 26 months later (~38K) and got an insurance check for $29K. I was more worried about the reliability of Wranglers thanks to the history of such but really it made no sense to buy used. They don't depreciate much if you can get a great deal upfront
You don't say the color or the wheels, but let's assume they were both upgraded. $1k for paint and $1.5k for wheels. Base $35k + $9k for long range + $5k for PUP. It has no EAP or FSD. So that means the car's brand-new price was $51.5k. The original owner probably got the $7500 tax credit. You definitely don't get it. So yeah, you paid a lot higher than MSRP.I paid just under $60k for it including registration and other fees, which I believe is $10k above MSRP?
You don't say the color or the wheels, but let's assume they were both upgraded. $1k for paint and $1.5k for wheels. Base $35k + $9k for long range + $5k for PUP. It has no EAP or FSD. So that means the car's brand-new price was $51.5k. The original owner probably got the $7500 tax credit. You definitely don't get it. So yeah, you paid a lot higher than MSRP.
I'm a first time Tesla owner with my M3 and if I would have known how much I was going to love it I would've held out for the Performance version. I put $5.5k into it getting a clear PPF full wrap and ceramic coating as well. Does anyone have any recommendations for the easiest (and lowest expense) way to sell the car?
I recently purchased a Model 3 from a used car dealer (not from Tesla). I was planning on getting a used S but happened to come across the 3 about an hour outside of town, just taken in. It had 500 miles on it, pristine condition, but no EAP. February 2018 build.
I paid just under $60k for it including registration and other fees, which I believe is $10k above MSRP? All of the used S's that I were looking at were ~$50-60k (late 2016+ models) so I determined it comparable, and it was a freaking Model 3 and the wait list is years out, why the hell not?! I'm glad I did, best car I've ever driven. I liked the Model S when I test drove it, but the 3 was more my size and I think it looks a little more sporty.
Midnight Silver Metallic and I don't remember the exact specs of the wheels but they are dark colored and came with aero wheels. But also remember, buying new from Tesla adds on about $1,200 in destination and doc fees. Then you have registration and tax, which was included in my payment. It might be higher than MSRP, but factoring in all that, it makes the price difference negligible in my eyes.
Also I'm not 100% sure but from what I understand, selling the car disqualifies you from claiming the tax credit.
You also got the older v1 rear seats, what's the VIN?
Wait list is months, not years for your config Somebody can order today and get a brand new car by the end of the year AND a good shot at the the $7500 EV credit. Why buy used???
Nope.
Only buying with the intent of selling disqualifies you.
Gotcha I didn't realize. Still, selling after 500 miles for a perfect car? Definitely odd.