Finally upgrading my electrical panel and want to install a tesla wall charger that would add the most miles per hour for my 2019 Tesla model 3 SR+. Should I purchase the Gen 3 Wall Charger? I would like to know that if in the future we were to purchase a long range or other model that this Wall Charger would be compatible for it too?
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Wall charger for 2019 Tesla Model 3 SR+
- Thread starter tinacap
- Start date
M3BlueGeorgia
Active Member
Since you are limited to 32A, the Wall charger doesn't get you anything that the mobile charger doesn't, except being more waterproof (at the wall).
However, all S and X, and the LR variants of 3 and Y, can take at least 48A. And all use the same connector.
However, all S and X, and the LR variants of 3 and Y, can take at least 48A. And all use the same connector.
Of course it is. Actually it supports it better because the LR can use about 10% more power with the gen3 wall connector.
In order to "future proof" it, you will want to have the gen 3 wall connector on a 60 amp breaker. You electrician will know what that means.
SammichLover
Banned
FYI on "future proofing": If you can get your hands on a used Gen 1 UMC they allowed 40A. Tesla downsized for the Gen 2 to limit to 32A. What I did for my Model 3 LR was installed a 14-50 plug with a 50A breaker, good for 40A of current sustained, and leave a Gen 1 UMC plugged into my garage all the time while the Gen 2 UMC that came with the car stays stowed in the trunk. I don't get the full 48A my car is capable of but it's good enough and a nice step up from the 32A while it was still about $300 or so cheaper (I think I paid $220 or something for mine, so after sales tax for the new one a little over $300 cheaper) than installing a Tesla HPWC.
The issue with Gen 1 was they tended to wear out over time as you plugged in and pulled out of a 14-50 socket. The changeable adapter to handle different plug formats isn't a nice pigtail like Gen 2, instead it is this sort of hokey extender to the plug that takes physical stress on it as you plug in and out of the wall. But since I'm leaving it in all the time this isn't an issue.
It also saves me the hassle of the cheapest route, 14-50 plug in the garage using only the one Gen 2 UMC, but avoiding unplugging and stowing the UMC every time I leave without risking being without the UMC if I happen to end up needing it somewhere.
The issue with Gen 1 was they tended to wear out over time as you plugged in and pulled out of a 14-50 socket. The changeable adapter to handle different plug formats isn't a nice pigtail like Gen 2, instead it is this sort of hokey extender to the plug that takes physical stress on it as you plug in and out of the wall. But since I'm leaving it in all the time this isn't an issue.
It also saves me the hassle of the cheapest route, 14-50 plug in the garage using only the one Gen 2 UMC, but avoiding unplugging and stowing the UMC every time I leave without risking being without the UMC if I happen to end up needing it somewhere.
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It'll be fine. The HPWC is told(at installation time) what it is allowed to draw from the mains, and it'll also tell the car that value as a maximum the car is allowed to request. The car itself knows how much it can deal with, and won't draw more.
The way you're picturing this isn't how it works. You're thinking of it like the wall connector is waiting to attack your car and is going to force something on it, regardless of what the car wants. It's not like that.
A good metaphor for this is more like a buffet. The wall connector is like the buffet area, announcing how much food is available. But the car is like your plate that you are bringing. You can bring what size plate you want and take how much food you want. That's fine if the buffet has more food available than you want to take.
SammichLover
Banned
This.
The HPWC has a physical dial setting inside it that the installer sets. The dial is set to the maximum current that the wire+breaker can safely supply to the HPWC. The HPWC then communicates this maximum available to the car when the car connects. The car's BMS is in control of how much of that current it draws. The HPWC simply passing through anything that the car allows.
P.S. There is protection done by the car, in case the installer set the dial incorrectly or something has gone wrong with the wiring. The BMS in the car monitors the voltage and if the voltage falls too much it takes that as a sign that there is too much resistance to safely draw current at the level communicated by the HPWC, and the BMS back the current draw back down until it is happy with the voltage.
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