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Want to add Speakers, amp and subwoofer BUT since tweeters are deactivated with Partial Premium?
- Thread starter xanadufl
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TomB985
Member
I subscribed to this one because I’m interested in the same. I’m still amazed that the factory stereo in the minivan I traded for my Model 3 sounded so much better than this does. I’m hardly an audiophile, but the factory SR+ system is pretty underwhelming IMHO.
Wampa
Member
I'd love to be able to switch the rear audio output from the rear door speakers to the rear shelf speakers. I think that would do a TON for the audio experience. I can barely hear anything from the back currently.
Glamisduner
Active Member
InParadise
Member
So I spoke with Tesla CS today to see if activating the pillar speakers was an option for SR+ owners. They advised me to bring my M3 to a SC and see if they can push a software update to activate them and check for pricing. Luckily I have an service appt this weekend already so I will check and report back then.
All speakers are there except for rear amp and subwoofer. There's no way to activate those speakers ATM according to Tesla. Making those speakers active will require another amp, extensive wiring and fine-tuning...in other words won't be cheap/easy. I did something research into this right after I took delivery of my SR+.
They quoted me $6500.00 plus 5 days to do the install, I’m going to cover all of the Tesla badges with tape and put Ford badges all over the ride, maybe that will knock down a few thousands. The system they are installing is very high end, but I don’t need the Focal Speaker replacements, just a sub & amp.
Fred
Fernand
Active Member
As a studio guy and engineer, I can tell you that what countless "audiophile car audio" guys offer is mostly a con. First of all, a car is not a great environment for discriminating listening - bad acoustics, road noise and such, so a lot of subtlety in the equipment, if it's even there, is wasted. Secondly, the state of the art in Class D amplifier chips is such that you can get a very good 100 watt 2.1 (stereo + subwoofer) amp module for under $50, or a standalone subwoofer amp for $20. Really. There's a whole range of these.
I have modules like this that, to my amazement, ended up running some big studio monitors, and sound (and test) great. If you have a DIY bone in your body, to wire some of these into an existing stereo setup like on the SR+, maybe add a couple of efficient midrange car speakers and mount a subwoofer in the back, can easily be done for under $200 complete. And if you do it right, it's not going to sound much different from what you can pay thousands for. That's assuming you're not after brain-damaging, window-cracking volume, but efficient speakers at 50 watts can outperform a 500+ watt inefficient rig. A little reading, and some Amazon Prime trial and error goes a long way.
Plus many of these boards have Bluetooth receivers on them. We have a pair of refrigerator-sized Altec monitors in the studio that run (loud!) off a 50/50 watt cigarette pack sized $20 DROK amp connected to our DAWs as "secondary monitors". But when people want to play mixes off their phone, we just flip the DROK to Bluetooth mode, and it's done. The point is, don't be stoopid, technology does get better, do some research, roll up your sleeves and don't waste money on alleged brand and image.
I have modules like this that, to my amazement, ended up running some big studio monitors, and sound (and test) great. If you have a DIY bone in your body, to wire some of these into an existing stereo setup like on the SR+, maybe add a couple of efficient midrange car speakers and mount a subwoofer in the back, can easily be done for under $200 complete. And if you do it right, it's not going to sound much different from what you can pay thousands for. That's assuming you're not after brain-damaging, window-cracking volume, but efficient speakers at 50 watts can outperform a 500+ watt inefficient rig. A little reading, and some Amazon Prime trial and error goes a long way.
Plus many of these boards have Bluetooth receivers on them. We have a pair of refrigerator-sized Altec monitors in the studio that run (loud!) off a 50/50 watt cigarette pack sized $20 DROK amp connected to our DAWs as "secondary monitors". But when people want to play mixes off their phone, we just flip the DROK to Bluetooth mode, and it's done. The point is, don't be stoopid, technology does get better, do some research, roll up your sleeves and don't waste money on alleged brand and image.
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InParadise
Member
ElectrekPanda
Member
$6500 Bwahahahaha. I think that is almost the price of LR which has all your missing speakers.
Thanks for the information. It never occurred to me that additional components are required for the inactive speakers. I would hold off on upgrading if cost is in the 1000s. I rather spend that on wrap or tint before audio.
You are being hosed. The best cheapest, most cost effective upgrade is to replace the front dash 4 inch drivers, which are run full range except for a high pass cut off that protects them from any heavy bass signals, with the Infinity REF 4022, which can be had for $49/pair. The install can be done by anyone reasonably handy with tools, as the dash grill is a breeze to take off, and you really only need a specialized screwdriver that allows removal of the machine screws close to the windshield.
Discussed in detail in this thread. it includes extensive discussion of aftermarket subs. If you spend $6500 to get a better stereo, please call me, as I have some swamp land I'm willing to give you a really cheap price on.
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Should have just upgraded to the premium interior. That sound system sounds great.
TomB985
Member
No doubt, but mediocre sound is a paltry price to pay for financial stability without stressing about a monthly payment that pushes the budget. I can live with it.
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