i plug in to gen 2 cable and get only 32 amps now and was told the wall charger on a 50 amp circuit will get you to 40 amps so i want to remove the massive 220 plug and put the wall charger in its place?? is that something i can retrofit myself?? with out electrician since its alreasy wired up?
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
want to replace my 220 plug with the wall charger-how easy to just swap out?
- Thread starter meomyo
- Start date
It’s fairly easy, for me anyway. But typically those comfortable doing it wouldn’t have to ask how hard it is 
I’m sure there are plenty of YouTube videos.
I’m sure there are plenty of YouTube videos.
@meomyo I'm not going to say yes or no yet. You need to check what gauge and type of wire you have on that circuit first to see if it is right for a 50A circuit. Using the mobile cable that only draws 32A would be fine with a 40A circuit, so some people install the outlets with wire only for that level, and it may or may not be enough to move up to a 50A.
Assuming it has a 50A breaker and assuming the electrician sized the wires correctly for a 50A breaker, it is straightforward. You’d need to go to a big box store and get 4’ of 8 gauge THHN black wire. Cut it in half and that’ll be the extension wire for your two hots. Buy 2’ of green 8 gauge and that’ll be your extension wire for the ground (Technically you can use 10 gauge for the ground, but whatever). You can use appropriately sized bug wire nuts to connected the extension wires in the existing junction box once you get rid of the receptacle. I am assuming you can place the Wall Connector directly over the junction box such that the rear entry hole of the Wall Connector goes over the junction box. If you need to mount the junction box elsewhere, that gets more complicated.
Measure twice, cut once when you’ve routed your wire extensions into the newly mounted Wall Connector. Don’t put any strain on the wires when routed.
If the receptacle was a 14-50, then cap off the white neutral wire inside the junction box, it isn’t needed for the Wall Connector.
Measure twice, cut once when you’ve routed your wire extensions into the newly mounted Wall Connector. Don’t put any strain on the wires when routed.
If the receptacle was a 14-50, then cap off the white neutral wire inside the junction box, it isn’t needed for the Wall Connector.
Agreed. One of those times where "if you have to ask..." applies. Find an electrician or a friend who does electrical work in an industrial setting and have them do the swap for you.It’s fairly easy, for me anyway. But typically those comfortable doing it wouldn’t have to ask how hard it is
I’m sure there are plenty of YouTube videos.
its a 50 amp breaker...i was using my gen1 mobile cable and getting 40 amps till last week when that cable crapped out so my gen 2 cable only goes to 32 amps now...so its the right gauge wire for a 50 amp now..i dont want to put in a 60 amp breaker cause i think i would need new wire that thicker? Plus dont think my house can handle it with the panel. So thats where i am at
That’s the thing. You gonna assess that he strips the right amount insulation off. You gonna asses he doesn’t nick the leads. You going to assess he used the right amount of torque on the lugs? You gonna check he de-burs the tubing cuts?
Having the right materials is probably the easiest part. Workmanship is critical.
There two ways you learn this stuff. You do it a bunch and F it up a lot and learn from it or you go to school/apprentice then you F it up a lot and learn. Do you really want to learn on your own home?
I’m all for DIY, but find someone to work with if you never did this level work before. Because it’s great when you can assess the quality and competence of anyone you may hire to do work.
Yes, it's that easy. I've swapped back and forth a few times now. NBD.
As far as connections go it's as simple as shutting off the breaker, checking you've enough wire stub to reach, and getting 'er done. When you commission (think configure) the Wall Chager you assign the correct amperage value of the circuit combination (breaker + wiring). The wall charger will de-rate by 80% for you. Clean up, smoke test, move on.
A few things to keep in mind:
* No, which one is L1 vs L2 doesn't matter.
* Confirm you using Cu wiring, as the WC doesn't allow Al.
* Make sure you mount to a stud.
* Mount such that you fully cover the box, and of course that means punching out a rear access hole in the WC.
Personally, experience tells me breaker connections end up loosening over time (I think Cu actually crushes), so I would pull the breaker and tighten the screws up a bit. BTW, the WC AP times out somewhat quickly, so if you struggle getting in cycle the breaker and get back to commissioning PDQ.
As far as connections go it's as simple as shutting off the breaker, checking you've enough wire stub to reach, and getting 'er done. When you commission (think configure) the Wall Chager you assign the correct amperage value of the circuit combination (breaker + wiring). The wall charger will de-rate by 80% for you. Clean up, smoke test, move on.
A few things to keep in mind:
* No, which one is L1 vs L2 doesn't matter.
* Confirm you using Cu wiring, as the WC doesn't allow Al.
* Make sure you mount to a stud.
* Mount such that you fully cover the box, and of course that means punching out a rear access hole in the WC.
Personally, experience tells me breaker connections end up loosening over time (I think Cu actually crushes), so I would pull the breaker and tighten the screws up a bit. BTW, the WC AP times out somewhat quickly, so if you struggle getting in cycle the breaker and get back to commissioning PDQ.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
It could be extremely simple if you have enough slack wire behind that outlet to reach the lugs in the wall connector. That’s the main question to answer RE complexity.
Similar threads
