contaygious
Active Member
The other quote I got was 5k, but they are booked all month. Since my car is white I can't do a partial wrap.
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Xpel Ultimate Self Healing?OK I just got a quote for 7,500 from premiere for full body wrap. I'm also driving to LA next week so I need to do it ASAP if I decide to. This seems like a crazy price for a wrap. Thoughts?
I have my entire car wrapped and am quite glad I did. It has protected my paint from a lug nut thrown off a camper at highway speeds, a number of rocks and something thrown out a 2nd story window in the city. Though, whatever was thrown out the window did dent the hood, but it didn't scratch the paint so a little paintless dent removal and all was good.
Depending on how hard the door giving your car the door ding is swung it may protect you from door dings or not but it will protect the paint so you won't need it repainted just maybe the dent removed.
If you get a chip in your paint before you have it wrapped you may be able to still see it under the wrap. Really depends on where it is and how deep it is. I have one on my bumper where you can see the chip. Luckily its in a spot where most won't look.
If you can afford it, it truly gives you peace of mind. Hope that helps.
I decided not to go with the Tesla paint armor on my recent order but trying to understand options on full body solution. My motivation is to keep the car from getting rock pits - I've always done the careful regular car and my cars paint looks great a decade later except these $%^%$# rock pits! Also interested in any protection it affords for door dings... In reading that this technique is really a wrap that can include color is it ridiculous to just wrap a car later if rock pits get objectionable? (Maybe the stuff won't adhere to messed up paint???)
Sorry for my total ignorance about paint armor - hope you folks can enlighten me!
XPEL ultimate is expensive but the one many seem to go for. It is a clear film. The Telsa Paint Armor is the Avery Nano Fusion Film I believe. I have that as a partial wrap on my car and it looks nice too and is cheaper.
Perfect, Liz! Just the information I was looking for. Thanks!
Not sure that doing the whole car is vital.
We wrapped mainly the hood, full wrap. The ppf guy said that even bug juice stained the paint and would show up under the film. You want the paint as pristine as possible, and then you cover it. We got our film installed the next day after we got the car. They remove all wax and install the film.
All I have EVER done was to wax the ppf. No special anything. No sealants. I use a spray wax, carnauba in water base. I have used this now for going on two years. Hood and front end look fantastic. Even when a guy, wearing dirty gloves, closed my frunk and left scratches, the wax eventually "healed" them, by filling them in. Rock pits also tend to get filled in. The rock pits don't go into the paint, and that's the main idea. The paint is still perfect, the ppf looks like DEEP wax.
Not sure that doing the whole car is vital. Wherever you might get rock chips would be more practical. The only place I wish I had done is the 6 inches or so directly in front of the rear wheels, where the front wheels kick sand (especially used on icy roads) back to the rear wheels where the body flares out. Anyway, we are pleased, very pleased with how our paint job is lasting due to the ppf, and we didn't pay a fortune for the ppf, though we felt we did for the paint job.
A guy in OC on the official TM forums will do the front 1/3 of the car for 1500 (hood, fenders, grill, bumper, a-pillars, mirrors). Here in SD, friend of mine did the WHOLE car for 3k.. I did the front 1/3rd and the rear for 2k... it took 2 days, I didn't want to drive up to OC
Paint Armor is CRAP
Don't know how it works in Texas, but the paint armor crap here is smooth, shiny, clear, looks like liquid. I have not tried using a sander or orbital polisher on it, but since it is softer than paint, I wouldn't recommend that.