Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

What to do?!?!? 2013 Model S 60 Battery fail

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.

Attachments

  • upload_2019-12-19_11-4-45.png
    upload_2019-12-19_11-4-45.png
    367.2 KB · Views: 87
Let's not also forget the concept of time value of money. If you can get a 50k or 75k car loan at 0.99% I'd take that loan all day every day without hesitation even if I could purchase the car in cash. Anytime you can borrow money less than the rate of inflation or under a typical CD rate (approximately 2% right now for 1 year term) is a steal. Take that 50k or 75k loan at 0.99% and park the funds in a risk free CD at 2% and you'll still be better off than without taking the loan. Why wouldn't anyone not do this?
Honestly one of the very reasons I haven't pulled the trigger yet, it would kill me to see $50-90k suddenly missing from my savings when I think how far that could go in retirement instead! If I could find a 48-60 month loan under 2% I'd grab it, but the few available are with CUs out of state that won't allow me to join to get that rate...
 
Honestly one of the very reasons I haven't pulled the trigger yet, it would kill me to see $50-90k suddenly missing from my savings when I think how far that could go in retirement instead! If I could find a 48-60 month loan under 2% I'd grab it, but the few available are with CUs out of state that won't allow me to join to get that rate...

Tesla offered financing through Chase back in 2017. My rate is 0.99%. This is the only instance where I wish I could borrow more than the car is worth. Like 100 million more.
 
  • Funny
Reactions: BulldogsRus
I'd just be cautious -- if you sink another 11k into it and it gets totaled (which is easily a rear quarter panel fender bender) -- your then screwed out of even more money. I'd check with your insurance and ask some questions.

and @marlonjm2k

If a car is considered totaled by the insurance company and you have a pack in it that is worth more the correct move is to buy it from the insurance company. You have the first right to do so. The options are

* take the full amount from insurance but lose the car (they sell it at auction)
* take the net amount from insurance and keep the car (net being = what insurance would pay - price to buy the totaled vehicle from the insurance company before it goes to auction)

note if you buy it back you get a salvaged title. But in theory you could have tens of thousands more in a new battery pack than insurance would pay for (especially if you went with a 60 to 85 or 60 to 90 upgrade, but it could just be the difference in age of old car vs new pack). You can then sell the totaled car and buy another (used or new).
 
  • Informative
Reactions: hpartsch
and @marlonjm2k

If a car is considered totaled by the insurance company and you have a pack in it that is worth more the correct move is to buy it from the insurance company. You have the first right to do so. The options are

* take the full amount from insurance but lose the car (they sell it at auction)
* take the net amount from insurance and keep the car (net being = what insurance would pay - price to buy the totaled vehicle from the insurance company before it goes to auction)

note if you buy it back you get a salvaged title. But in theory you could have tens of thousands more in a new battery pack than insurance would pay for (especially if you went with a 60 to 85 or 60 to 90 upgrade, but it could just be the difference in age of old car vs new pack). You can then sell the totaled car and buy another (used or new).
Unfortunately not always an option. When mine was totaled they refused to let me keep it and I offered to buy it back. They said in Illinois if the car is less that 8 years old the insurance company can't sell it back. My only option is to buy it back from auction through a broker. I didn't verify this law but I hope they wouldn't lie to me.
 
Unfortunately not always an option. When mine was totaled they refused to let me keep it and I offered to buy it back. They said in Illinois if the car is less that 8 years old the insurance company can't sell it back. My only option is to buy it back from auction through a broker. I didn't verify this law but I hope they wouldn't lie to me.
That is a strange law, but it is true. It was designed to combat chop-shops from profiting.
http://insurance.illinois.gov/AutoInsurance/total_loss_auto.pdf
 
Tesla offered financing through Chase back in 2017. My rate is 0.99%. This is the only instance where I wish I could borrow more than the car is worth. Like 100 million more.
No kidding. Hard to believe there was some guy on here adamantly saying he wouldn’t take a loan at 0% and claiming he was a financial genius.
 
You are of course right but the other side of this is the koolaid drinkers who say " how can you afford to drive anything but a Tesla" with claims of no maintenance, no repairs electricity is practically free.

I have seen people here actually make the case the savings are huge.......

I don't regret my 2014 P85 but at the same time, my wife's 2014 Impala with a few thousand more miles is a better car, more reliable, NO more maintenance costs, and much cheaper and fewer repairs.

Yes, you've missed the fact that the vast majority of Teslas in the wild DO have an 8-year, infinite-mile battery warranty--the MS 60 is an anomaly, and especially this case.

(As for the Model 3, their batteries are field serviceable and have 4 modules that Elon suggests can be replaced at greatly reduced cost.)
 
Yes, you've missed the fact that the vast majority of Teslas in the wild DO have an 8-year, infinite-mile battery warranty--the MS 60 is an anomaly, and especially this case.

(As for the Model 3, their batteries are field serviceable and have 4 modules that Elon suggests can be replaced at greatly reduced cost.)
Why would you say I missed that?
My statement on repairs is not based on batteries needing to be paid for.
In 2 years and under 30k mine has needed $3200 in repairs(with me doing the brake labor) and $800 in maintenance service and that is not including tires which it eats faster than most cars.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: cwerdna
You misunderstand the issue. Of course they don't all die at 130k miles.

This is a question of risk--as the OP has just discovered, his car could be totaled and parted out (and perhaps should be unless the rest of it is in near perfect condition?) given the jaw-dropping cost of his battery repair.

The worst part of this five-figure repair/replacement is that when he drives out of the SC he'll still have a six-year old (or older?) MS 60, vs. something that feels like he just spent $11k to upgrade or improve. That's a very hard pill to swallow, what I'd call another payment towards "tuition of life."

At the end of the day, compared to any MS 85, an original MS 60 is a massive liability risk. Their value will drop as more cases like this hit the forums, but it was a risk that was hard to quantify back in 2013 . . . .

A MS60 is a bigger risk given your points, but that's also why the risk is reflected in the used vehicle valuations. They are in the upper-20's and lower-30's to buy one.

Further, a Tesla isn't any more risky to own than any other vehicle. My wife's old Lincoln blew a transmission at 20k miles and had to be rebuilt. At 52k miles it went out again and had to be rebuilt again (had to fight for the warranty to cover it). We dumped the car at 75k miles because the tranny was starting to skip again. These things could happen to any car.
 
Why would you say I missed that?
My statement on repairs is not based on batteries needing to be paid for.
In 2 years and under 30k mine has needed $3200 in repairs(with me doing the brake labor) and $800 in maintenance service and that is not including tires which it eats faster than most cars.

The OEM Goodyear tires eat waaaay too fast. I've seen 20-30k miles is the norm and mine were 28k miles. I replaced with Pirelli Cinturatos and currently have 45k miles on them and they're probably around 60% worn. I'll get easily 70k on this set of tires.
 
They are all time limited, whichever occurs first. A semi can and often goes 250,000 miles per year, so at that rate a million miles is only 4 years.

With 2 or more drivers driving the same truck, yes.

That is the high-end life expectancy of a diesel semi: Some long haul trucks go several million miles, but some local in town trucks last less than 300,000 miles. When the engine wears out from what I can see a new one is over $20000.

Comparing apples to apples though the warranty on the Cummins X15 (semi-truck engine) is 2 years 250,000 miles. I think the base Tesla warranty will be twice that?

You’ve probably been told to start looking for a new car once your vehicle begins to reach the 150,000 to 200,000 mile mark. Engines can’t last forever. However, the monster engineering that goes into building a semi-truck allows them to last for upwards of 750,000 miles, but some have been known to push a million. Each semi-truck drives an average of 45,000 miles per year, making the average lifetime of a semi-truck 15-16 years.

13 Solid Stats about Driving a Semi-truck for a Living

5 Quick Facts About Semi-Trucks - Commerce Express
 
My tires consistently lasted just over 40k miles on each set. I could have gone further but they were getting close to the wear bars. All original suspension never adjusted since built in 2014. No uneven tire wear either. Perhaps mine was an anomaly. The 8 year battery warranty is essentially worthless now with the recent updates clearly aimed to get the battery past the warranty period while reducing the usefulness of the car through voltage reductions, charge speed reductions and regen reductions. It seems the warranty now only covers completely dead batteries.