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Who has solar power at their home? Please chime in....

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By the way, this is something for people to be aware of. It may not be a good to so overbuild your solar array, depending on how your state or your utility does net metering. In my state (Idaho), there is never a time they will just write you a check for excess you have produced. They just keep track of a number of kWh credits you have stored on your account with Idaho Power, but there is not a way to get paid out in actual money for that. So it is sometimes not advantageous to go over 100% of what you consume. Shooting for 90-some % of your annual consumption cycle is usually good.

My friend overbuilt his system at 125% of their consumption, planning for getting an electric car, and he did, but they don't drive a lot of miles, so he's fretting with what to do as his kWh credits just keep accumulating, and he can't do anything with it.


I'd offer to charge my car at his house - just to help out!!
 
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We not only have net metering, but also time-of-use pricing. As I understand it in Northern California with PG&E, our solar panels pump out electricity to the grid during the day when rates are relatively high. In the evening we use electricity from the grid that is more expensive still. The Tesla charges after 11:00 pm at very low rates. Although our total consumption is greater than our production the cost of our consumption is less than the gain of production.

We installed a small 6-panel array at first to eliminate the "tier 4 pricing" before we leased a little Chevy Spark EV. Once we drank the KoolAid we knew a Tesla was in our future so we added 18 more panels. Our calculations are imprecise but suggest a 6-7 year payback. If I attempt to add the avoided price of gasoline for transportation this goes down (I think?)

We did this mostly for financial reasons - but driving up to the house with all those panels on our south facing entrance I feel so damned pius and green - that's a small immeasurable benefit too. Batteries to come? The grid is our battery until they monkey with the rates.
 
. The panels now put out about 3.8 kw, and run a cumulative 30kw, with us using only 10kw (based on the net meter) - so we use about 1/3 of what we produce.
How'd you manage to get approval from Xcel for 300% of your annual production? Normally they limit you to a system that is only up to 125% of your previous annual usage. After several requests, we were only able to get approval for 141% (125% plus an annual kWh allowance for a new electric vehicle).
 
I can't say we always charge when the sun is shining, but I try to.

This may be counterproductive, at least on a broad societal scale; but whether it's beneficial to you personally depends on the contract details about how you pay for electricity and how (or if) your solar panels are connected to the grid.

Assuming your solar panels are grid-connected, they provide power to the grid (broadly defined, to include your house) no matter what you do. If you were to completely stop using electricity on a sunny day, then 100% of your production would go to your neighbors and reduce load on the local power station, compared to your not having solar panels. If you turn on every appliance in your home and charge your cars on a sunny day, then most or all of your production will go to that, thus reducing load on the local power station, compared to your not having solar panels. That is, your solar panels provide a benefit no matter what you do. Flipped around, if you charge your car when the sun is up, you'll be charging (partly or completely) from solar power, but that power will not be going to your neighbors, so the load on the local power station will increase, even though you've got solar panels on your house and the electricity they produce is going into your batteries.

In many areas, grid load rises throughout the day, peaking in the mid-to-late afternoon. At this time, utilities often bring their most expensive and most polluting power stations on-line. Because charging your car, even with a grid-connected solar array on your house, increases grid demand, this results in an increase in pollution from those most-polluting power stations.

Of course, there are a lot of caveats and exceptions to this rule, most of which are regional or site-specific:
  • Is your house grid-connected? If not, you'd want to charge when your panels are producing the most electricity; the grid doesn't matter.
  • What's the overall power production look like for your area? In particular, what types of peaker plants exist in your area, to provide that extra late-afternoon "kick" in production? A few areas in the US, such as parts of California, now have so much solar power installed that they over-produce around mid-day, and have to throw electricity away as a result, so charging at mid-day might be beneficial.
  • What's the overall demand curve in your area, and on the day you're considering? This varies regionally, seasonally, and on a day-to-day basis.
  • Do you have a battery system, like a Tesla Powerwall, to store solar power? If so, then your house's electricity demand is likely to be low throughout the day, and you should probably charge your car whenever you're producing the most power, although details will depend on your system.
  • Are you on a flat-rate or time-of-use (ToU) billing system? This doesn't affect the environmental impacts of when you should charge, but it's typically designed to motivate electricity use to match the utility's costs, and indirectly the environmental impacts, so charging when rates are low is a decent proxy for when charging imposes the lowest environmental costs.
  • What are the details of your solar power installation's grid connection? That is, are you on net metering, a feed-in tarriff, or something else? Is billing done monthly, or is there a time-of-day component? These will affect the economics of it, but likely not the environmental costs of charging.
You may want to consult with local resources to figure out when the best time to charge is, whether or not you have solar panels on your house. Ask your local utility, public utility commission, or local advocacy groups. For me, the grid is managed by an industry group called ISO New England, and their Web site has a real-time system demand graph that anybody can monitor. I buy my power through a "GreenUp" program and the Green Energy Consumers Alliance, which has a program called Shave the Peak, in which they send out alerts when consumption starts to peak on summer days. I then know not to charge my car at those times (and to otherwise minimize my electricity consumption). I've heard that some utilities (mostly in California) have programs that can communicate with some EVSEs, like some JuiceBox units, to have the EVSE initiate charging when the grid has a surplus of "green" energy. (See the JuiceNet Green page for details; however, timed charging doesn't work all that well with JuiceBox EVSEs and Teslas, so from a practical perspective this isn't the greatest option for Teslas.) I mention all of this simply as examples of resources you might be able to use. Unfortunately, these programs, resources, and grid details vary a lot regionally, so you'll need to research both the issues and resources in your own area.
 
Have a small 1kw system that I use to offset some of the charging of my M3 during the day. Bigger system didn't make sense as the highest bill was $88 last month. Beyond that Tesla's offer of $50 a month rental for a system can't be beat, then you could add one of their Powerwalls for nighttime use if needed.
 
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I live in S FL and have 33 solar panels for almost 2 years and just added 4 Powerwalls.

My utility is FPL, looks like Orlando uses OUC. Contact your electric company and see what the rules are. What FPL does is not necessarily what OUC will do.
FPL net metering. Good deal, they want to stop it. Tried a big misleading political campaign called Proposition One a few years ago.
FPL Generate over 12 kw, you got to insure FPL for a million bucks
FPL Generate much more then you use they won’t approve your installation
FPL Generate more then you use, FPL will settle up at the end of the year, but only pays the wholesale rate for electricity, much less then you pay.
FPL still have to stay connected to the grid and pay utility fees and franchise charges, about $140 per year.
Installers, they can mess up your roof.
Powerwalls for power outages. Still evaluating, still have bugs in my installation that haven’t worked out, but it’s only a couple of weeks old.
Powerwalls make power at 65 Hz when batteries are full. Won’t run my microwave wave and UPS boxes stay on battery, as if the electricity is out.
LED lights seem to surge, even when Powerwalls not providing power. I’m not sure the cause, may not be Powerwalls but as of now I think it could be.
Change over from grid to batteries not instantaneous. Slight lag causes smart home lights to all turn on.

Many smart people being very helpful on this forum. A couple of more thoughts about Solar in FL,

How much roof life is left can deter people from adding solar panels as a new FL roof can be expensive and added to a solar install can put the project out of reach or delay it years until the reroof is undertaken. Dorian was 60 miles from my house when it turned North. No one in FL can predict roof life beyond the start of hurricane season.

Adding solar and batteries, at least in my mind increased the value of my home. I hope it also makes the property more desirable if I ever decide to sell. In FL, solar and batteries, unlike most other home improvements can’t be used by the county tax appraiser to raise your property taxes.

I’ve seldom been the recipient of such tangible benefits from the tax code as the rebates on solar, batteries and the electric car.
 
My take on solar is somewhat different from the "green eyeshade" ROI calculations. I put in my first 700 watt array in 2008 as "phase 1" of a future electric car. The panels were not remotely cost-effective back then (35 year payback) but I budgeted it as part of the price of an electric car. In 2012, after driving an electric car for awhile, I knew what my actual electricity usage was so I added another 1470 watt array, putting my total at 2170 watts. As before, solar prices were much higher then than now so my new array wasn't cost-effective — I considered it part of the cost of my electric car. My view is that "people by less useful toys than solar panels, do they not?" It seems odd to me that people will calculate ROI on solar panels to the penny but then go out and buy a fancy new car, when buying a used car, or just keeping the old one, is far more cost-effective. Doesn't make sense. No, my solar arrays weren't cost-effective but I'd much rather have them than a hot tub or boat or some such thing. I like "driving on sunshine" and I seem to be something of an early adopter when it comes to doing that.

I ground mounted my panels because I didn't want to mess with my precious roof or string lines though an attic with blow-in fiberglass insulation (I hate working up in the attic). My pole-mounted panels were more expensive than roof mounted ones because of the extra hardware and racks needed. I did my own post hole and conduit trench digging (lots of rocks since I live on a glacial moraine) and did my own concrete work, but I let the local solar installer handle everything else. One advantage of my pole mounted arrays is that I can adjust the pitch of the panels with the seasons, from 15º in the months around the summer solstice to 55º around the winter solstice. I just adjusted my panels down to 35º yesterday. Besides improving solar production in winter, the steeper angle helps me with pulling the snow off — I use a window squeegee on a long painter's pole to do that after each snowfall.

My 2170 watt solar array provides all the electricity I need to run my house and fuel my car, although I do some opportunity charging at public charge stations when I can. My local electricity cooperative is very supportive of renewables and net metering because we, the member-owners of the co-op, influence the policy. My co-op even offers a solar rebate for up to 3 kW of panels and a $750 electric car rebate. When I first put in my panels the co-op had a "true-up" (to zero out any accumulated solar credits at the wholesale electricity rate) in June, a poor time for it. We net meter customers lobbied to have it changed to March. A few months later the co-op just got rid of the true-up entirely and now lets us carry the credits forward as long as we like, so long as we don't exceed 10,000 kWh. My current credit is about 1300 kWh, which is plenty to get me through the winter when solar production declines and my electricity usage increases. [No AC needed here in the mountains, of course. I use passive cooling in summer: windows open at night when it is cool outside and shut during the day when it is warm.] I haven't paid an electric bill, other than the basic $20/month service charge, since 2012.

My 2¢.


Solar array at summer solstice pitch of 15º:
Solar panels at summer solstice pitch1944sf 7-11-17.jpg

Solar array before pulling off snow in winter:
Snow on solar panels1253edsf 2-23-15.jpg

Code:
Electricity production from my solar arrays:
2008   232 kWh
2009  1165 kWh
2010  1132 kWh
2011  1203 kWh
2012  1409 kWh
2013  3327 kWh
2014  3217 kWh
2015  3159 kWh
2016  3227 kWh
2017  3277 kWh
2018  3306 kWh
2019  2143 kWh
Total = 26,797 kWh
 
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How'd you manage to get approval from Xcel for 300% of your annual production? Normally they limit you to a system that is only up to 125% of your previous annual usage. After several requests, we were only able to get approval for 141% (125% plus an annual kWh allowance for a new electric vehicle).
The installers quoted us an 80% system when they installed it. They took care of the deal with Excel, and I never heard of any kind of 'approval' needed. We didn't have the roof real estate for 100% coverage. Which based on our previous average usage - that was correct.
Excel (assumedly) loves the fact that they are buying up our power for grid usage, and they basically told us we aren't getting that good of a deal using solar power (talking us down from some magical cloud perhaps) - but then again, that's only for 10 yrs. (after that they get it for free - even better for them right?) Boulder wanted to get most people producing on the grid providing for the county once upon a time. I think they were trying to get Boulder running it's own power company, away from Excel - but I may be off there.
I could care less actually, to me it's all about moving in the right direction with renewable energy. And I do think buying is the right choice. Going off grid would be even better. My other thought were the panels you see outside of town that they sell to people, or offer to people to use solar power. Sounds good on the surface, but when you think about that - how do I know they aren't selling power created from 'my solar panels' to more then just me? - in other words, they can just keep selling the same panel outputs over and over making a killing on that service right? Seems like having your own, on your own roof is the way to go. (mojonovich is my other login)
 
In San Diego we have net metering and time of use plans available. We charge our teslas at super off peak midnight to 6am and are on a TOU plan that only charges us $0.09/kWh during those hours.
Peak rates in summer 4p-9p are over 4x that cost and winter peak and off peak times are about 3x the cost. We realized literally ** 87% ** of our electricity use is during those super off peak times. Most of that's the cars but some is AC and pool pumps. And with net metering since our solar output is mostly during off peak and peak hours we found that a solar system that covers only about 50% of our use would actually nearly zero out our bill.
We're planning to try to fill our west facing roof with panels to produce some during the peak hours and planning on spending a bit more for 360w panelsto really max it out.
Unfortunately Tesla would only do a 13 or 26 panel system and our sweet spot seems to be around 15-18 panels so we probably won't end up going with them although i'd love to. They also weren't flexible with higher efficiency panel options.
We got another quote at around $1.88 to $1.95/W (after 30% fed) pretty close to Tesla's price.
Planning a few more panels anyway to crank the AC a little more liberally (happy wife) and be ready for rate increases, panel degradation, etc.
Not directly driving on sunshine but that nightime energy is cheap because they have abundant power churning out and basically need to get rid of it...ive heard CA power companies even pay AZ to take some excess power sometimes (???). We're also producing for them when everyone's cranking their AC and whatnot and energy is expensive...flattening the demand curve as they say.
 
Thanks to Obama, I got a great addition to phase 1 Solyandra panels, with two pallets of Phase II-2 solyandra panels. Unfortunately these self ballasting, glass tube based thin film systems, that positioned north south and retain equal amounts of light from morning to sunset, without repositioning and work from summer to winter equally converting sunlight to electricity, were discontinued. The Chinese have the wisdom to subsidize their solar industry, as Obama did that facilitated the production of the phase II solyandras, but without continued subsidies this company went bankrupt. The rare earth materials and costs of manufacturing exceeded the cost of flat panels.

That said they are great and produce and have produced for the last 10 years, when i installed phase 1 and since 2012 when I installed phase II to create a combined array of 7500 watts, that actually rarely produced more than 6200 watts. I have trees and dust in New Mexico that knocks down the efficiency, but what is left is just fine and during the spring and fall I get a check from the power company for my grid-tie system. Now I use it to cool the house in the summer and charge the Tesla during the day and my electric bill has not changed from last year. The trick is to charge when the solar array is peaking, but the collective or aggregate of every day's power generation is metered and measured against what I consume. I charge every time the Tesla returns to the garage when the sun is out or it isn't cloudy. The car is named Solar*Car ! Cause it is!
IMG_0875.JPG
IMG_0885.JPG
IMG_0882.JPG
Need to put SOLYANDRA type panels back into production ! Especially with a highly reflective PVC white roof.
 
How'd you manage to get approval from Xcel for 300% of your annual production? Normally they limit you to a system that is only up to 125% of your previous annual usage. After several requests, we were only able to get approval for 141% (125% plus an annual kWh allowance for a new electric vehicle).

I don’t know if ur local power company XCel has strict rules about that or not, but here in SoCal, Ladwp has the same restriction. But I was able to go 200% size than their limitation. I convinced them that Im going to add 2 more electric cars to my house. Gave them the kW calculation for one car. They did their math and came up to me with a number and asked me to show the confirmation for ordering new cars.

yes I showed them that I have 2 model 3 reservations at that time then they approved my solar system. After that, I cancelled my m3 reservations :|
 
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I don’t know if ur local power company XCel has strict rules about that or not, but here in SoCal, Ladwp has the same restriction. But I was able to go 200% size than their limitation. I convinced them that Im going to add 2 more electric cars to my house. Gave them the kW calculation for one car. They did their math and came up to me with a number and asked me to show the confirmation for ordering new cars.

yes I showed them that I have 2 model 3 reservations at that time then they approved my solar system. After that, I cancelled my m3 reservations :|

Xcel has a similar method. Not sure if a reservation would work but you can add ~3MWh/yr to your consumption if you've recently purchased an EV...
 
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11kw system in Houston area. Making about 200$ per month in electricity with a payment of 280$. Getting 10k$ tax credit so basically breaking even until it's payed off then free money. Current bill is -156$ and growing.

I don't follow your numbers. To whom is or was the $280 a month payment and why is your bill $-156? Others seem to understand, and I see similar postings, but better if you can break it down.
 
My electricity bill kept climbing until it was over $400 / mo., and that's without running AC very much.

I installed a Tesla 7.93kW system plus a powerwall. So far it's been a great investment.

No out of pocket expense, just a loan payment of $193 / month - 1st installment paid 6 weeks after the system was turned on (been running $100-200 credit against elec bill since).

I'm currently a significant net producer, even with EV charging (though we also charge at work), over the summer months. Based on some rough estimates, I think I will be a slight net consumer when all is said and done, as my winter production will drop significantly (my best days were over 50kwh, but once the days are shorter, the sun's angle less optimal, and we get lots of cloudy days, I expect several months where my average will be as little as 15-20kwh - of course I won't be running AC then, so that will help)

So in the summer you are producing $400+ worth of electricity for $193 / month?
 
My understanding is that asphalt roofs generally last 15-30 years. You'll definitely need to have yours assessed before installing solar panels on it; if you only have, say, five years of useful life left, then installing solar panels now makes no sense unless you replace the shingles (and maybe other stuff), too.

One more point: There's a Federal tax credit worth 30% of the cost of solar panels that expires (or maybe just gets cut in half; I don't recall the details) at the end of this year, IIRC. It can easily take a couple months between ordering solar panels and having them fully installed, so if you're serious about this, you should act very soon. That said, the cost of solar panels has been dropping for years, so if that trend continues, waiting another few years might result in a cost reduction comparable to the Federal tax credit. This might make sense if your roof is old enough to make a solar installation a dubious proposition but not yet old enough that you want to replace/repair/maintain it now.

Bottom line: You should be talking to local contractors about all of this. They're familiar with Florida laws and can inspect your roof. Check out the EnergySage link I posted earlier and/or ask any friends or neighbors who have solar panels for references.

No, the ITC doesn't "expire" on 1 January, it just drops from 30% to 26%.

Details:

Solar Investment Tax Credit (ITC) | SEIA

Our situation has been optimal, but we're in Texas and have deregulated power with 100% buy back--the grid is our battery. Our pay back time was 1 year and 4 months; from that point forward we save about $6k per year which certainly helps pay for our Tesla addiction:)

We installed an 8 kW system, but should have gone larger as we left some south-facing roof uncovered. Dumb move. If you have a great roof orientation, USE IT.

Doing so "future proofs" your home as eventually, nearly all cars will be EV's, so why not be ready for that eventuality?

Also, while you're there, in all cases there will be electrical work being done. Be sure to specify, "Two NEMA 14-50 outlets will be installed in the garage for convenient Tesla charging." (Or three if you have a 3-car garage, etc.)

It's the time to do it, not after-the-fact.
 
There seems to be a big hit on the market value of a house that has leased solar panels. I don't know if the market is being rational or not, but having panels that are owned by somebody else does decrease the price you can get when you sell your house.

I bought solar bonds from Solar City because I liked the idea of enabling the installation of solar for people who lack the capital to pay for it themselves, and I get 5% on ten-year bonds. But when I decided to buy some more, they had quit offering them. I think maybe that part of their business evaporated because nobody wanted to lease panels.

I'd say buy, don't lease.



You fellows are lucky to be getting any credits at all. Solar is so popular here on Maui that the utility won't accept any power from new solar installations. My panels sit idle, producing nothing in spite of abundant sunlight, for a big part of the day, because my Powerwalls are full and my A/C isn't running at the moment. And if I use no grid power at all I still pay a $26.17 monthly minimum. (I can draw about 40 kWh from the grid before my bill goes over that $26.17.) With one more Powerwall I could probably disconnect from the grid entirely, but to save $26/month that would be a poor investment.

I have no regrets about "overbuilding" however, because I'd rather have too much capacity than not enough. But I'd gladly give the utility my excess power for nothing, just to reduce the amount of diesel they burn to run their generators.

You need another Tesla or three--what a waste of have all that excess power that can't be stored or used!

Perhaps more Powerwalls in your future?
 
I have an 11.34kW system in WV with full retail net metering. With an all electric house and two EVs, the power bill is always the minimum $5 grid connection charge. Payback should be 8-10 years. System cost was about $2.83/watt installed on the roof. Panasonic panels and SolarEdge inverter. No battery at this time, but something I'd like to do.

I have around 1000 kWhs per year left over after going through the winter months, but wanted to make sure I could offset 100%.
 
As to the original post, at the moment, home batteries still seem to be relatively high hanging fruit, mostly due to initial capital/install cost.

Better environmental and economic returns on investment are more likely to be had taking a home completely net zero+ with conversion to total electric for home cooling, air and water heating heat pumps, induction cooking, etc. and going to full BEV for all personal transportation.

If it is about saving money, with net metering, adding more solar PV almost always makes more sense than going with home batteries. With generation beyond net zero metering, a homeowner is lucky to get paltry wholesale rates for excess electricity.

Utilities will always be able to do battery storage for substantially cheaper than a home resident with economies of scale, though may not pass that savings on to the customer.

There are still some significant outlier cases with potential value to being able to decouple from the grid, such as during natural disasters when power could be out for hours to days and rarely weeks. Right now, all of our ‪Solar PV is useless in a power outage as it has auto shut-off to protect line workers on the grid. Fortunately we live in a low risk zone where outages are rare and very short lived.

There could also be a bit of TOU arbitrage fun in the future if/when advanced TOU plans and metering sufficiently advance to allow electricity to be bought and sold on the market by the second, making home batteries more economically viable.
 
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Thanks to Obama, I got a great addition to phase 1 Solyandra panels, with two pallets of Phase II-2 solyandra panels.
Interesting, hadn't seen a solyndra setup. These would be great for a canopy/pergola rooftop setup. In Philadelphia we have tons and tons of new construction rowhomes with roofdecks. I'm working on a solar canopy rooftop product based on bifacial glass panels, but a streamlined version of this would be even better IMO. Thanks for sharing.