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Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk
- Thread starter ngng
- Start date
I recently bought a Satonic V1 Soft Close for Tesla Model 3 & Y through the Satonic Storefront on Ali. First of all, the version I recieved looks different than most of the Satonic V1 units I have seen installation videos of on YT. Mine came with a plastic isolation bracket on the motor which inhibited installation as I couldn't bolt it to the frame as described with that bracket, nor did it provide adequate clearance with the Frunk liner installed. I finally got around that by removing the isolation bracket and zip tying the motor to the frame. Then came the real issue, no matter how I tried to adjust the Satonic latch, the engagement "hook" would hit my Tesla hood striker on the back end and prohibit the latch from pulling down the striker into the Tesla latch. You also need to remove the plastic insert on the Tesla latch or the Satonic mechanism will bind and not release. This was actually demonstrated on a YT installation video on the Satonic website and on YT where the installers used washers in the Satonic mechanism to release the binding because the didn't remove the plastic sleeve. While removing that plastic sleeve fixes this issue, it creates a metal on metal situation between the Tesla latch and hood striker, not a great design. In any case, after 4 hours of trying every possible option and adjustment available, I determined the V1 version didn't work for my 2023 Model Y. For those of you that want to pursue installing one of these devices, I would recommend the updated V2 design which is similar to the Tlyard design eliminating the Satonic latch, or just buy the Tlyard.
Do you have a photo of your kit? V1, V2, V100 doesn't really matter since these companies change their product names all the time.
This is explicitly called out in their install instructions.
A metal on metal latching mechanism isn't inherently a bad design.
Yeah, I did know about having to remove the plastic insert and did so (after forgetting to after initial install). The minute it bound up after install I had remembered that I had to remove it. I just wanted to make note of it since the printed instructions are very small and some might not see that detail and noted the fact that one of the prominent install videos hosted on YT and Satonics website they make this error and fix it by wedging washers in the cradle assembly. Removal of the plastic sleeve is detailed better in their installation video though.
While I agree that in general a metal on metal latching mechanism isn't necessarily an inherently a bad design, I think it is in this case it is. After removing the plastic sleeve from the Tesla latch, the metal on metal contact from the latch/striker can and likely will create wear, corrosion and will likely rattle. It's probably why Tesla designed and installed the plastic sleeve in the first place.
The picture bzobzo posted above is the unit I received. Must be an updated design. With that said, I think the actual Satonic latch is the same, only the motor/cradle has changed. I did forget to mention in my post above that the Satonic cradle had a tab above the bolt hole on the right side that interferes with installation as well, hitting the wall above the mount point. It looks like it is designed to hold a cable which isn't on my 23 MYLR.
I got the Satonic soft close for $60 in December during the Holiday sale as well. Actually, it’s $73 shipped total with the LED frunk light included through the Satonic website. I guess there’s a V2 now? But, I’m good with V1 that I installed, and no issues with installation and operation so far.
Anyone have experiemce or know if this would void any warranty? Curious as someone in another thread mentioned that it would but I don’t see how as it doesn’t alter the frunk mechanism but it is also something that’s connected to the battery? Do adding lights and such affect warranty as they are indirectly connected to the electric system as an add on? Thoughts?
There are tons of threads and thoughts on this. The letter of the law says unless the dealer can prove your parts caused damages, it will not affect warranty. That does not align with reality. Tesla will often flat out refuse to service a modified car, but, even that varies.
amoney805
Member
Installed it today. Took less than 30 minutes. It's a little noisier than I would have liked, but even the oem frunk relase is a little jarring so its fitting. Also its advertised to have "anti-pinch" so it wont crush your fingers but I tested it with a folded up towel and it still closed it all the way.
So, GUESS WHAT HAPPENED! The Satonic kit failed and I spent the past 4 hours gaining access to the frunk. I know how I solved the problem, but I'm not sure what happened. More info soon. I stand by my original statement that the kit will fail safe in the event of a dead motor, however, there is another failure that obviously will cause a major headache.
zoomer0056
Active Member
Really looking forward to any more info on this. My soft close kit was just delivered today so I would love to hear what you find out so perhaps I can avoid the same issues when I install. I bought the Tlyard version so slightly different than the Satonic but I’m sure there’s an overlap with whatever happened in your case.
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