Winter is coming

[MrBadger]

I revisited things again this morning and videoed the issue. Looks like there is a build up of ice that forms behind and around the handle, which then sticks the handle in. So will try some silicone lubricant in this area but don't want to spray the area. Can also confirm the window sticking so eagerly awaiting arrival of the unpronounceable rubber sealant protector previously mentioned.

Still image below shows the point just after the handle released and shows the shower of ice spraying out and the pressure exerted on my finger needed to get to this point. Cabin had been on preheat on HI and TeslaFi reported cabin temp as 23 around the time video was taken.

Something I learned with this was cabin preheat turns off the moment drivers door is opened.

Prior to preheat, cabin temperature was recorded at -0.9 which I do not believe is representative cabin air temp as outside temperature at that point was recorded by car at +1.0C. Metal bodywork certainly at freezing as beaded water is frozen, but for an internal reading to be at sub zero would imply it is reading bodywork temperature rather than cabin air temperature. However it must also be in heater airflow as it rapidly rises to +23.3C then when preheat is turned off, drops back to +3.5C over 15 minutes or so at which point car went back to sleep.

 

[Adopado]

The beading that you get with a nicely washed/waxed car looks like it may even contribute to the problem! I would guess that the lumps of ice are going to be stronger than a finer frozen layer. Are filthy cars less likely to suffer this issue, I wonder! My own M3 (fairly clean) was well below freezing yesterday evening and there was a lot of ice pinging off when I opened up but fortunately nothing stuck. I've had issues in the past with cars that have frameless windows being frozen into position so I think that would be my main concern. Might try the silicone coating trick.

 

[Tonybvi]

I think Ford have a patent on it

Not sure about that as my Skoda Superb had a brilliant electrically heated screen. Replaced the Skoda with an MX and there’s a fair few things the Skoda had that I really miss, including silly little things like bag hooks!

 

[Adopado]

In the app, go to "Climate", then press the button, with wavy lines, at the bottom, on the right hand side to select "HI", it should thaw the charge port fairly rapidly. Might also work on the door latch. See page (12 of 193) in the manual or just search for "THAW"

Well ... I tried that for the first time a couple of days ago ... it was round about freezing point outside so thought it might be a good idea .. woo, that gets hot pretty fast! I looked at the app about 5 minutes after pressing the button and the cabin temp was 28c !! I note that it appears to chew through the electrons at a spectacular rate though.

 

[Manitoba Keith]

Well ... I tried that for the first time a couple of days ago ... it was round about freezing point outside so thought it might be a good idea .. woo, that gets hot pretty fast! I looked at the app about 5 minutes after pressing the button and the cabin temp was 28c !! I note that it appears to chew through the electrons at a spectacular rate though.

Aye, it does that Laddie, but it stops at 28C. Shouldn't make too big a difference in charge given it is plugged in.

 

[MrBadger]

I looked at the app about 5 minutes after pressing the button and the cabin temp was 28c

Ah, it said cabin temp was 28C but according to TeslaFi when it says the same, it rapidly cools down. I think the sensor must be in middle of heater airflow.

 

[Adopado]

Aye, it does that Laddie, but it stops at 28C. Shouldn't make too big a difference in charge given it is plugged in.

Do you find that is takes all the power from the charger in real time or does it tend to take from the battery and then recharge? I was thinking if it was the latter then you might set off before the battery charging had caught up.

 

[Manitoba Keith]

Do you find that is takes all the power from the charger in real time or does it tend to take from the battery and then recharge? I was thinking if it was the latter then you might set off before the battery charging had caught up.

Really no idea but think, It would depend on the amount of amps your charger is giving. My thought is if you are pumping in 32 amps, it should charge the battery as well as provide enough to power the heater. I would just do the HIGH heating the last 5 minutes before leaving.
Yes, it does cool off fairly rapidly, but if it has heated enough to open the latch then it has done the job.

 

[MrBadger]

Yes, it does cool off fairly rapidly, but if it has heated enough to open the latch then it has done the job.

Or not.

 

[Manitoba Keith]

Or not.

Guess that is when the "Not So Hot" water bottle comes into play.

 

[WannabeOwner]

Do you find that is takes all the power from the charger in real time or does it tend to take from the battery and then recharge?

Car should take the HVAC power from Shore-power, if connected.

This from TeslaFi (graphs originally used to show difference between 100% charge at Supercharger and Home, but the Home one has Climate come no shortly before completing). maybe if connected to 13AMP it would not cover the whole amount?

 

[Adopado]

Car should take the HVAC power from Shore-power, if connected.

.. and does this appear to be the case with "Thaw" HI setting too as far as you know?

 

[WannabeOwner]

.. and does this appear to be the case with "Thaw" HI setting too as far as you know?

I think "anything" you do with the car whilst connected to Shore Power. Haven't tried driving with a long extension lead ... yet

 

[Roy W.]

Car should take the HVAC power from Shore-power, if connected.

This from TeslaFi (graphs originally used to show difference between 100% charge at Supercharger and Home, but the Home one has Climate come no shortly before completing). maybe if connected to 13AMP it would not cover the whole amount?

I can confirm that on the UMC at 10A, there isn’t enough power for pre-conditioning on the HI setting. I did it yesterday to melt the heavy frost, and even though the car was plugged in I still lost 10 miles of range from the battery, so about 3kWh, in just about 10 minutes.

 

[MrBadger]

I'm not surprised the handles are freezing with the amount of laying water behind the handle. So surprised that others are not experiencing the same.

Leftovers from heavy rain yesterday, but previous shots from overnight condensation. This is second opening of the handle, so quite a bit of moisture previously escaped. I should have taken the opportunity to apply some silicone lubricant.

[edit]Just popped out and wiped on a thin layer of some high performance 3-in-1 lubrication with ptfe that should also help to keep moisture at bay. If that doesn't help, I can spray some in the closer fitting bits.

 

[MrBadger]

so about 3kWh, in just about 10 minutes.

Thats 18kW of power... urm, thats a heck of a lot and even a 32A/7kW hookup would not cope. Typical immersion heater is 3kW, so thats 6x an immersion heater.

 

[Glan gluaisne]

Is it really that much energy from the battery, though? The GoM in most EVs can be pretty inaccurate at predicting range when conditions change. Yesterday, for example, I left home (in my i3), having preconditioned whilst plugged in, and the GoM was predicting a range of 121 miles. I drove 10 miles and the GoM was telling me the range remaining was 123 miles...

My feeling is that very cold weather and preconditioning can fool the range estimate a fair bit. Not sure what the heater power is in the M3, but I doubt it's more than about 5kW or so. I can't see the cabin heating being anything like 18 kW, somehow.

 

[Fredneck]

I can confirm that on the UMC at 10A, there isn’t enough power for pre-conditioning on the HI setting. I did it yesterday to melt the heavy frost, and even though the car was plugged in I still lost 10 miles of range from the battery, so about 3kWh, in just about 10 minutes.

That would be 18 kW! That's a lot. I guess there is some 5 kW in the battery heater and then 5 kW in the cabin heater and another kW or two in the seats... so where did the rest go? Or are my numbers wrong?

 

[MrBadger]

Sounds like there should be airflow around the handles

What's the SAFEST way to remove ice and snow from the car?

Whole of above thread worth a read.

 

[MrBadger]

Moderator comment - start of original "Winter tips" thread

I'll start, some may already know these

If your window is frozen (even if not) and does not drop when you try and open the door, do not attempt to close the door as you may damage it - not sure what the answer is - maybe drive on autopilot and hold door shut with your free hands

If your window mists up, pressing the front window demist button twice will do a super demist - unconfirmed so may be coincidence

Door mirror defrost required rear screen demister to be active - precondition does this

And FAQ from Tesla - not very helpful Winter Driving Tips