Yes, ordered from the Queens, NY service center. They had one in stock so I got it in about three days.
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Wireless front parking camera with monitor for front bumper protection
- Thread starter artsci
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- Model S User Interface
Yes, ordered from the Queens, NY service center. They had one in stock so I got it in about three days.
ken830
Model S 85, Model 3 Performance, Model X LongRange
Cybrown.. Since you (or your employer) have a working relationship with Omnivision, can you obtain the actual OV10630 datasheet? If it's available to you under NDA, could you at least confirm that the register location is the same as the OV10633 that I have been referencing?
If the code in the existing PIC microcontroller is not protected, then a quick modification of the code is a one-time modification that is cheap to do. If it is protected, then I agree that having an external microcontroller overwrite the register is a good alternative. But do you think the code in the existing PIC is written to support multi-master I2C?
Great to have you involved cybrown. I was hoping that we could find an Omnivision expert and you seem like just the guy.
I spoke to two camera integrators today who work with Omnivision modules. One does not have LVDS interface options but they said they would look into what they may be able to do and get back to me with a price to develop a custom option. I am still trying to get to speak to the right person with the second firm.
Anyway, the way I see it, modifying the existing board is going to require manual rework and programming of the Tesla camera. That may not be bad for a few but not great as a kit solution for Tesla owners as every camera would need to be hand modified and programmed. Since it is possible to buy OV10630 modules without LVDS maybe an option is to make our own adapter board that includes a PIC and a serializer from Maxim or TI? I can do the board design and manufacturing but not the PIC firmware. Looking at the OV10633 datasheet there appear to be quite a few register settings and it is not at all clear to me how practical it is to work out and emulate what the Tesla OV10630 settings are?
Would love your input.
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One more general progress update.
Giving some thought to the camera switch board it would be handy to have a Homelink controllable RF decoder built into the switch rather than using a separate Oracle switch module. Artsci has been having trouble with his so perhaps an alternative would be better for that reason too. It seems, subject to testing, that there are a number of Chinese rolling code dip modules that might be compatible. They cost less than $10 so might be a great option. We could provide an option to use an external switch as well.
Also, it may be just as easy to design in a matched LVDS cross link switch with 100 ohm differential traces as it is to use a relay.
dsmith2189
Active Member
[HUMOR]no, no, no... the shiny super duper deluxe all in one unit.:love:[/HUMOR]
I guess the [LEVITY][/LEVITY] tag was deprecated in this thread. I'll use the ver 5.6 tag instead.
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SUPRKAR
Member
This past Sunday I decided to see what information I could find out about the rear camera. I disconnected the plug behind the foot panel on the drivers side and made a set of jumpers out of solid alarm wire. this is what I found. Two wires carry voltage to the camera this is battery voltage from what I can measure. However the main console looks for the camera draw by sending out a short pulse of positive voltage then shuts down and resends again looking for the draw from the camera. If I leave the camera disconnected this will continue, when I connect the leads to the camera the main screen sends the voltage and holds it. I then have a steady reading of battery voltage. The other two wires which I think are the LVDS have a 430mv or so reading and this fluctuates a little. With all the wires connected I get a picture on the main screen. The picture is clear without noise or interference which makes me think the relay system artsci is working on will work fine as it will be better connected than my temp wires.
Also I have a Lexus which I installed a video in motion black box which lets me connect a dvd or other video signal between the controller and main view screen. I was wondering if it would be possible to make a Composite to LVDS converter which would allow for connection of a front camera or whatever composite source to the LVDS of the main screen of the Model S. I am searching for a black box made for another vehicle which might have an LVDS output that might work with our cars.
Also I have a Lexus which I installed a video in motion black box which lets me connect a dvd or other video signal between the controller and main view screen. I was wondering if it would be possible to make a Composite to LVDS converter which would allow for connection of a front camera or whatever composite source to the LVDS of the main screen of the Model S. I am searching for a black box made for another vehicle which might have an LVDS output that might work with our cars.
Thanks SUPRKR. This gives me additional confidence that the solution we’re developing will work. I’m making steady progress on getting everything ready for the big test this weekend. While it’s been slow going, I should have the final test PCB ready to plug in on Saturday. Owing to the small size and very close placement of the four pins on each of the three Fakra receptacles that have to be soldered to the PCB, it’s been very challenging to make these by hand. And yes, you’re right. The four pins and connecting wires in the cables carry +12v, ground, LVDs +, and LVDS -.
My car is now at the shop for threading of the cable for the front camera from the grille under the nose cone to the area above the crash bar behind the nose cone. As noted in my earlier post, I could not find a way to do this, and concluded that the front bumper would have to be removed. The shop, however, thought it might be possible without front bumper removal. Let’s hope. I’ve asked them to photograph and take note of the procedures so I can post them here. Obviously, anyone who does this mod and mounts the front camera under the nose cone will need to know how this is done.
Your post also suggested another mod that might be possible once we got this front/rear camera system to work: creation of a dash cam that would continuously record the front and rear images for play back on the touch screen or downloading. With HD cameras front and rear this would make for a dash cam vastly superior to any commercial products. Of course, the technical challenges here would be substantial but if it’s possible I think we have the knowledge and know how among our members to get it done.
But first things first. I hope to report on the results of the camera switch test his weekend with both video and still photos.
JerryNycom
Member
Not a Tesla service center but Small Damage Repair Certified Collision Center in Cockeysville, MD. They're threading the camera cable and fixing some small cosmetic damage to the rear bumper (repainting the whole bumper, as I stupidly backed into a wall while parking the car). Cost under $500, which includes removing the front bumper.
dsmith2189
Active Member
Does this mean you are going to have two more connectors on your "kit PCB board" for front/rear signal pass through to the (possible future) DVR?
[HUMOR]If you had only remembered to hook the rear camera back up.[/HUMOR]
are the new humor tags working?:biggrin:
Not the one I've made for testing but if the idea is doable, future versions could.
Funny about that. As I was backing up I was looking at the front camera image on the rear view mirror and ignoring the image on the touchscreen. Confused the images
JerryNycom
Member
Exactly why I wanted to tie into the reverse wire, so when in REVERSE, camera stays on REAR CAM, when put in DRIVE switches to FRONT CAM. We could leave the switch as an override for people who like using the REAR cam while driving. Also makes it so much easier when parallel parking in NYC. Back and forth and the camera switches automatically!
Since you're using a relay on the PCB, there's lots of ways it could be done, even if you can't access the "reverse wire" (is there is such a thing?) You could detect current through the reverse lights and use that signal to switch the relay.
I think that's definitely doable. For the switch, I'm thinking three positions, for "always front", "always back" and "detect reverse".
The front camera is now permanently mounted under my nose cone and the cabling complete. So all is ready for the test of the PCB switch tomorrow or Sunday. I drove around with the front camera on and took a lot of photos.
Here I'm about a foot away from the curb, so there's a good margin for error when you're parking via the touchscreen.
Look forward on a neighborhood street.
When a parking line appears to be under the nose cone you're actually about 12 inches away, again a good margin for error.
Here a few of those barrier poles. Without the front camera you'd never be able to figure how close the are from the front of the car.
All in all this will be a great mod.
Here I'm about a foot away from the curb, so there's a good margin for error when you're parking via the touchscreen.
Look forward on a neighborhood street.
When a parking line appears to be under the nose cone you're actually about 12 inches away, again a good margin for error.
Here a few of those barrier poles. Without the front camera you'd never be able to figure how close the are from the front of the car.
All in all this will be a great mod.
It's under the nosecone on the chrome crossbar in front of the grille. The Tadi camera is above it but that will soon be gone and the nosecone replaced.
