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Wiring a Gen 3 Home Charging Unit
- Thread starter preppucci
- Start date
So my electrician blessed all my work and says I'm am doing it correctly but had one suggested improvement. He said to not wire the charger directly from the circuit panel but instead to install a 240v non-fused safety switch (see photo) next to the charger so that you have a way to kill the power instead of having to go all the way back to the circuit breaker in the panel. You then run SO Power cord (Service Cord) from the switch into the Tesla Home Charger. He says the charger is technically an appliance and should have it's own On/Off swtich next to it. The Tesla installation manual mentions nothing about this but then again, they encourage you to hire one of their suggested electricians who would probably recommend the same.
He also has wired a couple of these Tesla chargers and says there is not much room in the actual connector box for your wires, especially if you're using stiff, heavy gauge wire (6 or 8 gauge). The SO Cord is much more flexible and it's easier to make the connections inside the charging unit with this wire.
He also has wired a couple of these Tesla chargers and says there is not much room in the actual connector box for your wires, especially if you're using stiff, heavy gauge wire (6 or 8 gauge). The SO Cord is much more flexible and it's easier to make the connections inside the charging unit with this wire.
There isn't anything wrong with having a disconnect. Some areas have inspectors that require it for a HPWC. How far is your breaker panel from the the wall connector? I have a sub panel right next to mine essentially allowing easy power down if needed. That could be an option for you as well for about the same price as a safety switch. You could run a larger feed to a sub panel right near your HPWC and then a smaller branch circuit to the HPWC. It would give you options to power other items in your garage while avoiding having to pull wire back to your main panel.
As long as the SOOW cable ins't run inside a wall, it should meet code assuming the correct gauge wire is used. You could also just put a 50A plug and then put a SOOW wire with a 50A connector on it so now you have a plug in wall connector like they sold in the past. I used 2awg THHN in MC with to go from a distribution block to my HPWC, which is multi-strand so I didn't find it a problem to wire into the HPWC. It was a bit tight but nothing impossible.
Here are more details about my install: My Sub Panel & Wall Charger Install
As long as the SOOW cable ins't run inside a wall, it should meet code assuming the correct gauge wire is used. You could also just put a 50A plug and then put a SOOW wire with a 50A connector on it so now you have a plug in wall connector like they sold in the past. I used 2awg THHN in MC with to go from a distribution block to my HPWC, which is multi-strand so I didn't find it a problem to wire into the HPWC. It was a bit tight but nothing impossible.
Here are more details about my install: My Sub Panel & Wall Charger Install
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My main panel is about 80' away and a flight down, so not convenient. The sub-panel is a good idea but I don't really have the need for one in my garage, plus I've already run the 8 gauge wire to the installation location. I like the idea of a switch so I'll go with that and call it a day. Thanks for all your help and good ideas.
National Code says a disconnect is only required for over 60A, so it should never be absolutely required for a Gen3 Wall Connector. If you want to put one, no harm except the cost. I also think that SO cord is probably not appropriate. Armored cable is probably a better idea if it's exposed.
kkillebrew
Banned
I have to ask: Why did you buy the HWPC? It's a great product, but unless you provide a safe 48 amps (60 amp breaker and correct wiring) the HWPC is no improvement over the mobile charger included with the car. I see a lot of people that buy these and they turn them down to 32 amps so I am curious.
Convenience of having a permanently mounted cord in your parking space - pull up and plug in.
Security of the device being permanently mounted - less likely to be stolen.
Assurance of always having your mobile cord in the car - less likely to not have it if you need it.
Safety of a hardwire connection - one less point of failure - see NEMA 14-50 melt/fire threads.
More power available depending on how you wire it - faster charging.
Ease of future expansion - add another wall connector in the future.
Hi Paul,
I've installed a couple of the older version of these units, and have advised friends that have had installations done. One suggestion I would make is to ensure that your connections inside the Wall Connector are as tight as they need to be. There is a spec. for it in the installation manual: 50 pound-inches. There are several threads on this forum with photos of Wall Connectors with melted wires and connections, and the connections can loosen up over time...
So to protect yourself....Maybe use it for a week or two, and then shut the power off with your switch, open the unit back up and re-torque the wires to the rated spec. Might be a nice reason to get a torque driver if you don't already have one
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The last thing you want is heated or failed connections when you're charging for hours on end...
I've installed a couple of the older version of these units, and have advised friends that have had installations done. One suggestion I would make is to ensure that your connections inside the Wall Connector are as tight as they need to be. There is a spec. for it in the installation manual: 50 pound-inches. There are several threads on this forum with photos of Wall Connectors with melted wires and connections, and the connections can loosen up over time...
So to protect yourself....Maybe use it for a week or two, and then shut the power off with your switch, open the unit back up and re-torque the wires to the rated spec. Might be a nice reason to get a torque driver if you don't already have one
.The last thing you want is heated or failed connections when you're charging for hours on end...
I keep the mobile in the car at all times. this way I can have a hard wired unit on the wall and just leave it there without worry or having to pack stuff up each time i leave.
Page 5 of the Gen3 Install Manual:
Tesla said:
(Note, I realize this is responding to a less-than-fresh post; but, for the record for anyone doing what I have been re a new install & reading what they can on here.)
Just wanted to add something I read on the forum in a different thread. If wiring from the main panel (not sub panel), the neutral and ground are gonna be bridged in the panel anyways. Hence for a new WC wiring pulling the neutral might not be worth it now. If later the WC needs to be converted to a 14-50 plug then that is a different story. Also in that case with the new code (adopted in majority of places), the breaker would be needing replacement to a 50am GFCI one to be compliant.
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