You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
You need one of the following:
- 4/2 Romex
- 6 gauge THHN in conduit
- 6/2 MC armored cable, which is the equivalent of THHN in conduit without having to deal with conduit
Tesla mobile charger (plugged into a outlet) would not allow double charging speed....it would actually reduce it.Seems like it would cost a little more to have the best of both worlds. If an outlet was installed next to the charge point that would accommodate a Tesla mobile charger that would allow double the charge speed when necessary. A switch could prevent power to both at the same time?
Hilarious that electricians at a code meeting have the same debates as us forum dwellers.Just wanted to thank you and others for the installation advice. Electrician is here now doing the install with 6/2 MC.
Related...talking with the electrician this morning (who was going to initially use 6/2 Romex, and used 6/2 Romex on all prior installations), he said he brought up the issue at a code meeting just last night because of what I relayed to him. Said that locally inspectors would pass 6/2 Romex, but there are "seemingly conflicting code) to make it a bit of a grey area. Again...the "step up from a non existent 55 Amp breaker to 60" vs. use conductor rated for 60 Amps so-called debate which I agree is not really debatable. (Use conductor rated for the same amperage as the breaker.)
Anyway, he said he would likely be doing 6/2 MC from now on just to be on the safe side, and it can make installation easier for most applications since they don't need to deal with conduit.
I'll post a couple pics when done.
Nothing to do with the charger itself...just due to either substandard components, substandard installation (incorrect torquing of connections), etc.I believe the "failing outlets" were the 1st gen chargers, 2nd gen dealt with that.
And it has a temperature sensor in the plug itself so that it drops the amps if it detects heat build up (typically from a failing receptacle).The 2nd has a much better plug and the amperage is limited to eliminate the plug and outlet heat problems.
Wow, this is fascinating. There's no "seemingly conflicting code". It is just ignorance in not understanding and meeting ALL of the requirements of the "round up rule".Related...talking with the electrician this morning (who was going to initially use 6/2 Romex, and used 6/2 Romex on all prior installations), he said he brought up the issue at a code meeting just last night because of what I relayed to him. Said that locally inspectors would pass 6/2 Romex, but there are "seemingly conflicting code) to make it a bit of a grey area. Again...the "step up from a non existent 55 Amp breaker to 60" vs. use conductor rated for 60 Amps so-called debate which I agree is not really debatable. (Use conductor rated for the same amperage as the breaker.)
It's this weird thing where people round up the breaker, but then their brains shut off, and they think that applied the 60A rating to all of the wire in the circuit too, when it actually didn't.
"The interesting thing here is this is super common lately with both disconnects and 50 amp receptacles. The problem here is the load is fully loaded at continuous duty for 12 to 15 hours which has never been addressed with any load previously. Manufacturers are just now starting to address these issues with special EV receptacles and disconnects that are rated for these types of loads."
I believe the disconnect is required for over 60 amps OR over 150 Volts. (This is 240 Volts of course). My breaker panel is not in the garage.Why have the disconnect switch at all? I’m under the impression that’s only needed for something *over* 60A
Also I’m not sure if you’re aware, but ChargePoint now sells a native NACS connector which can be retrofitted - NACS Cable Kit | ChargePoint
I believe the disconnect is required for over 60 OR over 150 Volts. (This is 240 Volts of course). My breaker panel is not in the garage.
Thanks for the ChargePoint tip....I was actually one of the first to purchase the replacement NACS cable. . (The images from this thread are from the initial installation, at which time there was no NACS cable available or even announced.)
It does seem odd that "requiring" a disconnect just seemingly introduces another failure point. I'll take your word for it on the need for a disconnect...but I will say every 240 V line on a 60 amp circuit in my house (spa, steam shower) has a local disconnect of some type.No, it has to be over 150v AND over 60A. No disconnect needed for a 60A breaker.
Personally, I would just can the disconnect and use Polaris connectors to connect the wires together.
And yes, run of the mill disconnects, which are meant for pool/spa breaker boxes or ACs, just aren’t built for EV charging.
Breaker didn’t trip because it didn’t exceed 60A draw for a long period of time. It is also possible that the car reduced charge current when it detected wonky electrical draws.
EDIT:It does seem odd that "requiring" a disconnect just seemingly introduces another failure point. I'll take your word for it on the need for a disconnect...but I will say every 240 V line on a 60 amp circuit in my house (spa, steam shower) has a local disconnect of some type.