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2 piece rotor range
- Thread starter luke68bird
- Start date
destructure00
Active Member
Yes, and I haven't noticed any difference. The further the weight is from the center, the more effect it has. Removing 3 lbs of weight in front and 1.5 lbs in back spread across a 7 inch radius doesn't change a lot. I'm sure it's something, and better than nothing, but small enough to not be noticeable.
If you're doing it for better brake cooling and performance on the track, go for it. If you're doing it for range, acceleration, or comfort improvements, you'll be spending a lot of money for naught. But they do look cool I guess...
If you're doing it for better brake cooling and performance on the track, go for it. If you're doing it for range, acceleration, or comfort improvements, you'll be spending a lot of money for naught. But they do look cool I guess...
destructure00
Active Member
I'd be surprised if this made any noticeable difference as well. But at least it's a lot cheaper than rotors.
Airflow correction seems worth pursuing though.
The lighter battery will do even less for range than the rotors will.
Lowering it might actually help a meaningful amount.
Tires and wheels aerodynamics are the other meaningful items though are good factory.
Beyond that you are going to be chasing your tail.
The fixation on wheel diameter and therefore weight around here is missguided as it is usually the tires that are making the difference.
Lowering it might actually help a meaningful amount.
Tires and wheels aerodynamics are the other meaningful items though are good factory.
Beyond that you are going to be chasing your tail.
The fixation on wheel diameter and therefore weight around here is missguided as it is usually the tires that are making the difference.
MasterC17
Active Member
Obviously, tires and wheels are the #1 as far as efficiency is concerned.
Lowering the car is probably your best "bang-for-the-buck" efficiency modification. There's a lot of spring options these days if you don't want to invest in coilovers.
Then, I would buy a performance style spoiler (assuming you don't already have one?); they're cheap.
Next, UP front lip.
Anything else is going to offer very little if any gain.
Lowering the car is probably your best "bang-for-the-buck" efficiency modification. There's a lot of spring options these days if you don't want to invest in coilovers.
Then, I would buy a performance style spoiler (assuming you don't already have one?); they're cheap.
Next, UP front lip.
Anything else is going to offer very little if any gain.
I agree, the ultimate combination for an efficient rotating assembly is...
1.) lightweight wheel, e.g. less than 18 lbs (for 18"), less weight, less power needed to turn the wheel
2.) base factory 18" diameter, keeps the wheel weight close to center as possible while clearing the brakes
3.) factory-like +45mm offset, lower offset pushes the wheels out too far towards the fenders causing drag and decreases the effect of the aerodynamic enhancing air curtains built into the front bumper
4.) factory 8.5" wheel width, anything wider causes more frontal area, less aerodynamic
5.) flat faced wheel for aerodynamics or a custom lightweight flat cover
6.) low rolling resistance tires
7.) lightweight tires, e.g. 25 lbs or less, less power needed to turn the tire, the tire is the furthest point away from center, so this matters and is often overlooked, although your selection will be limited by the other factors mentioned here; typical range is 22-26lbs for 235/45/18 tires
8.) factory 235 tire section, anything wider causes causes aerodynamic drag due to more frontal area
9.) factory 26.3" tire diameter, anything higher will increase the ride height and frontal area of tire exposed to air causing increased drag and also pushes weight further away from center negating any gains from decreased gearing.
Do have a list of these? I am interested in lightweight wheels. Everywhere I look, almost no one specifies the weight of the wheel.
Tirerack has some, looking for other options out there.
Ankle weight is the worst.
Again rotating weight means less in an EV due to regenerative braking. You pick a light wheel and screw up aerodynamics you won't help efficiency.
Also should be pointed out that reducing rotating weight will mean basically nothing to highway range and stands to help most in stop and go.........you know the around town around home when you can plug in each night and opposed to on long trips where range is a bigger deal.
Also should be pointed out that reducing rotating weight will mean basically nothing to highway range and stands to help most in stop and go.........you know the around town around home when you can plug in each night and opposed to on long trips where range is a bigger deal.
Exactly. People forget that not only do the OEM 20in 235/35 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tesla specific tires have greater rolling resistance, but also the tread is also meaningfully broader than the 235 Tire in the 18 and 19 inch size, a good example of how section width alone can be misleading. That extra broad 8.8 inch tread means more aerodynamic drag. Plus those OEM 20 inch wheels are contributing to the drag equation significantly more than the aerodynamic caps on the 18s. So between rolling resistance and drag you have a much better explanation compared to 4 to 6 lb of unsprung weight for the range differences. That unsprung weight makes a bigger difference in relationship to acceleration but not so much range.
To expand on my comments about highway vs city range.
If you want stop and go efficiency gains then rotating weight may be the angle to chase.
If you want to stretch range at sustained speed aerodynamic work will be a better angle. Understand this is not worth any money to chase unless you really need 5 more miles range for a specific purpose.
Not worth money does not mean don't do it. I have long modified vehicles, long as you see it as a hobby/timesuck/moneysuck great. Just don't pretend $1200 on rims to get 1% more range is ever going to pay off.
If you want stop and go efficiency gains then rotating weight may be the angle to chase.
If you want to stretch range at sustained speed aerodynamic work will be a better angle. Understand this is not worth any money to chase unless you really need 5 more miles range for a specific purpose.
Not worth money does not mean don't do it. I have long modified vehicles, long as you see it as a hobby/timesuck/moneysuck great. Just don't pretend $1200 on rims to get 1% more range is ever going to pay off.
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