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2014 P85 Gets a 2017 facelift using OEM parts

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Good news from Tesla that is long overdue... Tesla releases parts catalog for Model 3, Model S, Model X and Roadster to the public
https://epc.teslamotors.com/#/catalogs

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Any updates on the conversion kit? Looking to order new bumper within next few weeks.

Newchurch, looks great, like the look of the plastidip lip.

My facelift bumper is in the shop getting painted. It should be ready later this week. Then I will fit all the components and start looking at the V-bar support plastic that goes in the grill between the bumper and the hood. It appears that this plastic part is the most important piece. I'll also keep an eye out for any "gotchas" in installing the OEM facelift bumper.
 
Well, I can test on my own car. First things first, I need to use my 3d printer to prototype the parts. My printer is small, so I'll have to print ABS and "weld" them together with acetone. Once I have decent design, I'll take it to an industrial 3d printer (shhh, my friends at my former company have one for free use).
If all goes well, I can get it someone to prototype it in carbon fiber or fiberglass and then send it off for a mold/die. I'll probably take orders before it goes to mold.

UPDATE: I got my parts in, but it's still a work in progress. I got the OEM bumper painted. I installed the bumper myself and opted to buy new Louvres for about $250 each instead of cutting up the new bumper. I still need to buy the chrome splitter strakes that go in front of the Louvres. Finally, I vinyl wrapped it all after I got everything installed.
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I need to make a custom grill to cover up this lower radiator, but I need to cut a gap for the radar... That's another project for another day.

Now to tackle the gap...
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In this photo above, you can see that there's a gap between the plastic housing that holds the T badge and the plastic that touches the top of the hood.

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I tried 3D printing a design below that would screw into the same two holes that holds the T badge. It only provides a lip that rests on top of the plastic housing. I printed in ABS and welded it together with acetone. It didn't come out too well, but I printed in Low fast settings just as a prototype. the measurements were spot on, but the look was mediocre.

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So here it is when I close the hood:

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As you can see, you can still see the black plastic housing. On the other hand, you can't see the plastic at the top that touches the hood, so if I print in higher quality and tighter margins, I can close up that gap. Also, I can print in a variety of colors... such as Glow in the Dark ABS or various colors of Red, blue, etc. I thought about printing in Clear and then installing an LED strip lights to do that T-GLOW behind it. I think I will attempt that later and do add an LED strip for Christmas colors with a Red Rudolph nose on the T badge... anyways I digress.

Here's my new design which includes a lip that will cover the lower black plastic housing and also add a lip at the top for the plastic covers touching the hood:
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I've got it on the printer now, so let's see how it comes out. If it looks good, I'll try printing in a Clear plastic or a Glow in the Dark and install an LED array light with a remote control. That could be fun!
 
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Great work, I’ve asked a few times but nobody has been able to answer....

Will a facelift bonnet fit if the ‘D’ loop on the bonnet is removed/replaced/relocated/changed back to the original one? As I recall another owner had to change the bonnet latch when installing the facelift hood
 
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Great work, I’ve asked a few times but nobody has been able to answer....

Will a facelift bonnet fit if the ‘D’ loop on the bonnet is removed/replaced/relocated/changed back to the original one? As I recall another owner had to change the bonnet latch when installing the facelift hood

I'm using the original bonnet.. er, hood. The new hood has only one loop. I'm not sure if it will fit in the original latch. If you replace the hood with a facelift hood, then you need the new facelift latch. The new hood also has no rubberized seal, so then you have to purchase all new interior liners, and if you have the older large frunk space like me on a single motor, then even more work is involved.

My recommendation for OEM bumper facelift is to just retain the old hood, and retain the old latch by modifying it to remove the plastic knob that gets in the way. You can still open and close the hood normally. The plastic knob on the hood latch is just an aluminum rivet that takes 10 seconds to drill out and then can snap out. This way, you can always reinstall it if you want to revert back.

Other things that need to be relocated is the Homelink box. Very simple. Disconnect the homelink box connector and slide it out of the casing. Unscrew the single screw that's holding it to the frame. Shift the casing over about 2 inches where there's another hole an screw it into that hole. Reinstall the homelink. Takes about 30 seconds to do.

Besides that, everything else will just bolt on. There's more work involved if you want to replace the lower grill with the new grill. I have the AP 1.0 radar so I will make a custom grill.
 
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Yeh my car is a 2015 P85D so has the smaller frunk already being AWD.

The hood, ahem Bonnet is the main thing putting me off as I’d like to use the facelift item, they both use a single loop so I’d think a combination of relocating it and using the original loop you could use the facelift one
 
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Yeh my car is a 2015 P85D so has the smaller frunk already being AWD.

The hood, ahem Bonnet is the main thing putting me off as I’d like to use the facelift item, they both use a single loop so I’d think a combination of relocating it and using the original loop you could use the facelift one

If you end up trying it, report back to let us know how it goes.
 
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