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Ernest H
Member
Hmm... like i said earlier i literally only bought the SSR for the homemade harness as I have all the other materials at my disposal. (am not going to sell the harness but i do this for the sake of, staying in my shed away from fam on the weekends, ha haa).
roughly what you need to create the harness in post #82:
skills needed:
- soldering
- familiarity with electrics and electronics, and how to power off car both bonnet 12/15V as well as the high voltage battery under seat;
- multimeter
- be prepared to cut wires and not wire-tap things (i don't prefer tapping but that's a personal choice). warranty void doesn't bother me that much tbh;
- panel removing
materials needed:
- 4 (or more) LED bulb holder. you can choose your own style and how you want to install; obviously low-draw LED lights (check with multimeter);
- 6 or more connectors (2-3 wires). if you want to hardwire the LED bulb holder to the main harness that's fine also; but just bear in mind serviceability in future;
- +/- wires enough to run from rear dome to B pillar to front left of A pillar down to left floor; through to beneath centre console; then another piece which is the spine that runs along the front centre console to ciggy connector; then 4 lengths that runs off from the spine towards where you're going to mount the LED bulb holder; extra lengths connecting the SSR control towards ciggy connector;
- a small pin soldered to the trigger wire > SSR. This small pin will be inserted permanently into X288's pin 3 or 4 (depends if you want the rear left or rear right dome light as your trigger;
- prying tools;
- felt tape wrap;
- spare panel clips (especially the white ones when removing the front kick side panels)
NOTE - my car is 2022 MIC RWD so your build my differ in terms of connectors location or pin placement. Do check the connector / wiring schedule to confirm your model and build location.
roughly what you need to create the harness in post #82:
skills needed:
- soldering
- familiarity with electrics and electronics, and how to power off car both bonnet 12/15V as well as the high voltage battery under seat;
- multimeter
- be prepared to cut wires and not wire-tap things (i don't prefer tapping but that's a personal choice). warranty void doesn't bother me that much tbh;
- panel removing
materials needed:
- 4 (or more) LED bulb holder. you can choose your own style and how you want to install; obviously low-draw LED lights (check with multimeter);
- 6 or more connectors (2-3 wires). if you want to hardwire the LED bulb holder to the main harness that's fine also; but just bear in mind serviceability in future;
- +/- wires enough to run from rear dome to B pillar to front left of A pillar down to left floor; through to beneath centre console; then another piece which is the spine that runs along the front centre console to ciggy connector; then 4 lengths that runs off from the spine towards where you're going to mount the LED bulb holder; extra lengths connecting the SSR control towards ciggy connector;
- a small pin soldered to the trigger wire > SSR. This small pin will be inserted permanently into X288's pin 3 or 4 (depends if you want the rear left or rear right dome light as your trigger;
- prying tools;
- felt tape wrap;
- spare panel clips (especially the white ones when removing the front kick side panels)
NOTE - my car is 2022 MIC RWD so your build my differ in terms of connectors location or pin placement. Do check the connector / wiring schedule to confirm your model and build location.
nutsofamily
Member
Where does one get all these bulb holders etc? You have all these connections. I thought they were tapped In?
nutsofamily
Member
Are you taping into the existing lights? You have all these connectors on your harness. Where are they from?ha haa... I'm a coffee roaster by trade but always happy to try other coffees around the world.
Please read from post #82 to #85. Have done the write-ups of how to create the harness and wiring route. let me know if you need more info. happy to share.
Ernest H
Member
No, the only thing(s) that I tapped into was (1) the ciggy 12/15.5V + and - to power and energize the SSR; and (2) a pin into connector X288's pin 3 as the trigger to the SSR. Everything else is made from scratch. plain wires, connectors, bulb holder, etc. for serviceability, i added extra connectors so i can easily swap out parts of the harness rather than having to remove the entire thing. Think simple - we need power to energize the load on the SSR, this comes from ciggy 12/15V. We need a trigger to tell the SSR to energize. This comes from the X288 pin 3 or 4, which in turn tells the SSR when the dome light is on, it energizes the load on the SSR. then on the load side of the SSR, is where you build your harness with however many bulbs you want as long as you don't overload the circuit.
connectors can be anything like the following, as mentioned, i didn't have to buy them as I always have them in my shed. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...!sea!AU!3585307286&curPageLogUid=U5AMEf92x2gm
bulb holder or even, license plate light, can be like the following:
if you read back to this lengthy thread, as with getting power from any power source, you best include an inline fuse so your added load to the circuit won't short out the existing line. Something like this:
connectors can be anything like the following, as mentioned, i didn't have to buy them as I always have them in my shed. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...!sea!AU!3585307286&curPageLogUid=U5AMEf92x2gm
bulb holder or even, license plate light, can be like the following:
if you read back to this lengthy thread, as with getting power from any power source, you best include an inline fuse so your added load to the circuit won't short out the existing line. Something like this:
nutsofamily
Member
Ok thanks. That would make it extremely a pro install. You mentioned bulb holders
For bulbs…. Are we not using the existing footwell light assembly? Bulbs are
Already there are they not?
Ernest H
Member
front footwells have LEDs but they're severely underpowered, hence you see a lot of people having Premium interiors (LR, P) just go with upgrading the LED bulb itself and be with it. However, that requires premium interiors and hence all SR+/RWD owners have to figure out their own ways of powering them, and the reason for this thread by steve thurston.
Bear in mind, the rear seats (footwell, or under front seats) have no lights whether it is premium interiors or not, so this is the trouble all M3 owners are faced with.
With canbus and how tesla detects additional current/amperage draw on any circuit, it is not as simple as tapping into existing line and add another bulb for example - this is the reason why it took me months on and off, figuring out from circuit diagrams, trial and error, testing, and lots of shed time.
nutsofamily
Member
Understood. Parts ordered. Wish it had the electrical of ICE cars instead of BogBrother Lolfront footwells have LEDs but they're severely underpowered, hence you see a lot of people having Premium interiors (LR, P) just go with upgrading the LED bulb itself and be with it. However, that requires premium interiors and hence all SR+/RWD owners have to figure out their own ways of powering them, and the reason for this thread by steve thurston.
Bear in mind, the rear seats (footwell, or under front seats) have no lights whether it is premium interiors or not, so this is the trouble all M3 owners are faced with.
With canbus and how tesla detects additional current/amperage draw on any circuit, it is not as simple as tapping into existing line and add another bulb for example - this is the reason why it took me months on and off, figuring out from circuit diagrams, trial and error, testing, and lots of shed time.
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