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3D printed lowering links

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Note, in order for me to keep level front to back, I had to use 56 front and 74 rear. 76 rear was about 1/2" lower than the front.

And then I reprinted the 72 rear and oversized it to 1030 (3% larger) because the ball was too tight in the holder. 3% larger was JUST perfect and makes 72 EXACTLY the same length as 74.
Thanks. Leveling from an actual measurement perspective isn’t necessarily my goal. Evening out the wheelwell gap front-to-rear is. Rear ends always sit lower, at least for every car I’ve ever owned, so going with your 56/74 prob is the right answer since there’s a 5/8” difference for me already front/rear if I decide to go for it.
 
99B8A120-D8D5-4341-94BA-14D62B391B0E.jpeg
I printed some of these out and it took quite a bit of elbow grease to cut out the relief cut (or whatever they are called) after the print was done. Then it dawned on me that maybe these weren’t supposed to be completely cut out. @scottm is this correct? Should the little springy ends be completely separated. Picture attached with exacto blade through the slot.
 
I designed them to have a clean break where you cut there, so you're right to cut it all the way through.

On my printer setup using PETG these print with an actual gap opening there except for maybe the base layer.. quick swipe of Xacto liberates it.
 
Tesla boosted the car height about 3/4" after early (2013/14?) road debris hit stories came out, and I think has stayed there as the new normal height ever since.

Using +4 restores pretty close to what original Model S ride height was in "NORMAL" setting, but if you want to be sure use +6, which may be a little lower than original

+8 are definitely lower, and when you select "LOW" with these babies on the car looks slammed. With these on, you don't feel the need to reach for the LOW setting on the highway because you're already there.. LOW is saved for "car show", because now you are concerned about bottoming out on speed bumps, etc.
 
Fun fact: if I haven't mentioned it before: Model 3 (non-P) ride height (battery rails to ground) is LOWER than Model S w/air set to Normal

..and may in fact be even lower than Model S set to LOW (on factory links). I'm going to check again tonight. Quick experiment.

I know this because I've changed all my seasonal tires over for summer... and the same jack just barely fits under the 3 jacking point whereas no problem on the S.
 
I thought it would be a good idea to bring this post back to the top because Scott has been so helpful in the past.

Sadly, I was informed a few months ago that Scott had past away. He was a great contributor to the Tesla community.

McPhee, Scott William • Serenity Family Service Society


RIP Scott, his contribution to owners will be on the road for many years to come.

On a side note, I printed +6 and +8 and the +6 were great and I drove around on Low all the time, I wanted to have a super slammed in the weeds look on Low and drive on normal so I threw on the +8 links and didn't see a huge difference and still drive around on Low.
 
RIP Scott, his contribution to owners will be on the road for many years to come.

On a side note, I printed +6 and +8 and the +6 were great and I drove around on Low all the time, I wanted to have a super slammed in the weeds look on Low and drive on normal so I threw on the +8 links and didn't see a huge difference and still drive around on Low.

would you print and sell me a set?
 
RIP Scott, his contribution to owners will be on the road for many years to come.

On a side note, I printed +6 and +8 and the +6 were great and I drove around on Low all the time, I wanted to have a super slammed in the weeds look on Low and drive on normal so I threw on the +8 links and didn't see a huge difference and still drive around on Low.
Do you have any pictures of the differences?