A/C Evaporator Drain Location

[xAgyex]

I was looking into doing this as well as my '13 P85 occasionally has some AC smells (although it has dissipated since installing a new cabin filter). I noticed on the Tesla Service manual (the one you could sign up and access back in May) that there is a detailed procedure on doing this (to the tune of 70 steps and some (what looks like) major interior parts removal. it's called 'Use Evaporator Foam Cleaner, Replace Cabin Filters' from April 2022 and says "This procedure is a DRAFT, although it has been validated."

Has anyone else seen this procedure? Obviously going right up the condenser drain line like that displayed here is probably the quickest method (but is it accomplishing the intent of the cleaning)? i really don't want to tear about half the car and spend half a day doing it when the condenser line method may accomplish the same thing.

Also, perhaps it might be more effective (and easier to snake the Kool-It cleaning line closer to the coils) to remove the drain line where it enters the firewall and spray from that location. Seems like a more direct route. One could put the cup to catch the fluids under the HVAC nipple (A) and the reattach the drain hose (B). the See attachment for details.

I have had my setup through this mild winter in MD, and didn't notice any issues. But I also don't drive in deep snow if I can avoid it. Maybe if you drive in deep snow snow might clog the drain, but I am sure it would melt if parked in a garage for any amount of time even in winter. Clearly if it would freeze on top of the battery as intended by Tesla, then it can also freeze if hanging out like that. So far so good for me no issues.

 

[Newscutter]

Here's my variation on yinz guys have done. I'm thinking I may go back and cut the original tube on the vertical drop and put the junction to the new hose there, to further minimize any chance of pooling/leaking at the current splice... though I think it's really unlikely as the tubes are very snug. Always second-guessing/overanalyzing I suppose:

 

[fholbert]

Here's my variation on yinz guys have done. I'm thinking I may go back and cut the original tube on the vertical drop and put the junction to the new hose there, to further minimize any chance of pooling/leaking at the current splice... though I think it's really unlikely as the tubes are very snug. Always second-guessing/overanalyzing I suppose:

Stopped three minutes into the video. Get to the point. You have the original battery pack… The tow attachment is reverse thread… I’m not sure we’re your going with this?

Here is the problem, here is the fix. Two, maybe three minute video.

 

[Newscutter]

Stopped three minutes into the video. Get to the point. You have the original battery pack… The tow attachment is reverse thread… I’m not sure we’re your going with this?

Here is the problem, here is the fix. Two, maybe three minute video.

Not a paid gig, so don't much care if you watch it or not. If it helps someone great, but beyond that I have no other goals with these anymore.

But since we're going to be critical about free content, you should have written: "I'm not sure WHERE YOU'RE going with this?"

 

[ken830]

Not a paid gig, so don't much care if you watch it or not. If it helps someone great, but beyond that I have no other goals with these anymore.

But since we're going to be critical about free content, you should have written: "I'm not sure WHERE YOU'RE going with this?"

I appreciate you sharing knowledge. People will find these types of things useful as these cars are aging beyond the decade mark.

 

[nardosdad]

For folks looking at this thread going forward, here's a video to accompany the pictures.
- Stop at the 0:42 mark because you do not need to pull the rubber surround off, the 2 clips, or the left/right liners. You can remove the tub by removing the nine 10mm bolts.
- Start again at the 2:12 mark. Then stop at the 3:30 mark, when you can see the AC line and how to access it.

Thanks for the information. I am going to try and do the re-route this weekend on my 2014 Model S 60 RWD that I just purchased.

 

[nardosdad]

Here's my variation on yinz guys have done. I'm thinking I may go back and cut the original tube on the vertical drop and put the junction to the new hose there, to further minimize any chance of pooling/leaking at the current splice... though I think it's really unlikely as the tubes are very snug. Always second-guessing/overanalyzing I suppose:

Thanks. Very informative video.

 

[peakay]

Here's my variation on yinz guys have done.

Thank you for this video, I found it extremely helpful. I’m *sorta* looking forward to digging into my ‘12 P85 that has had a hv battery replacement, but kinda scared of what I’ll find! I do see the ac condensation dripping out on the driveway from front middle like a normal car.

BTW, on the steering shaft, I meant to suggest a motorcycle fork or off road shock cover for that linkage. Did you ever cover that up?

 

[Newscutter]

Thank you for this video, I found it extremely helpful. I’m *sorta* looking forward to digging into my ‘12 P85 that has had a hv battery replacement, but kinda scared of what I’ll find! I do see the ac condensation dripping out on the driveway from front middle like a normal car.

BTW, on the steering shaft, I meant to suggest a motorcycle fork or off road shock cover for that linkage. Did you ever cover that up?

No... I haven't circled back to it yet. I think a summer (warm garage!) project will be to pull the whole frunk out and make sure my ground connections are solid. Those seem to be problematic and I had a local friend whose car threw a crap ton of errors when one disconnected-- but still appeared fine. So I'm planning to redo those, tap if necessary. While I have that out I'll check back on my prior work and-- at a minimum-- regrease the shaft.

<insert OFFICE joke here>

I'm somewhat leery of putting the wrong boot on the steering shaft and then causing the very binding I'm trying to prevent.... but that's a good suggestion.

 

[Laimutesl@]

here's service manual for MS 2021+.
It seems it adresses the issue.
Does anyone have an idea if we could retrofit this solution ?