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Advantages of Wall Connector vs Mobile Connector?

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Charge port is on the left side of the vehicle. Right wall of the garage is an outside wall. House electrical panel is on the outside of that wall. The electrician will just have to go through that wall to have access to the wires coming out of the panel. I’m not going to pay to run wire any farther than necessary, especially when I can get the 18’ cable WC for the same price as the 8’ version, and as @Y_tho notes, the 18’ version is back in stock and I got it ordered.

Well too late now, but it really depends on whether or not your garage is finished for it to cost much more.

Personally, I would back in. You'll want to figure some way of suspending the cable over the car so that you don't need to drag it back and forth each time you come and go. A few people have done that. Don't know if you have 1 door or two, but the space between 2 doors is also a good place for the 8' cable.
 
Just wanted to add a little summary for clarity for the currently available charging options...

Gen-2 Universal Mobile Connector (UMC), comes with your car and can charge up to 32A, provided you fit it with the right NEMA adapter and plug it into the appropriate outlet. Comes with adapter for your standard 110v 15A 3-prong outlet. Other adapters are $35 each or a kit of all 7 additional for $220.

Corded Mobile Connector. Looks just like the UMC, but has a direct-wired NEMA 14-50 plug. This unit will charge up to 40A.

Gen-2 Wall Connector. Can be installed on up to a 100A circuit and multiple units can be installed on the same circuit in a master/ slave arrangement with comm wires linking them. Can offer higher charge rates for older Tesla vehicles that had 80A and 72A charge ability. Offers no benefit to current Tesla vehicles outside of the ability to load balance multiple chargers on the same circuit if you're charging multiple cars.

Gen-3 Wall Connector. Can be installed on up to a 60A circuit and charge up to 48A. It has WiFi enabled monitoring functions as well as using WiFi for initial configuration.


For those doing a new installation who want to maximize their charge ability, the wall connector is the way to go. For those who already have a NEMA 14-50 available, I like the Corded Mobile Connector. It gives additional charge ability vs. the included UMC and then you can leave your UMC in the car for when you need it.
 
Well too late now, but it really depends on whether or not your garage is finished for it to cost much more.

Personally, I would back in. You'll want to figure some way of suspending the cable over the car so that you don't need to drag it back and forth each time you come and go. A few people have done that. Don't know if you have 1 door or two, but the space between 2 doors is also a good place for the 8' cable.
I’m not quite sure where the 18’ cable hurt you :cool: but to each his/her own :D
 
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I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage. He charged $385. Ordered the corded Tesla 14-50 charging cord. The cord stays hooked up in the garage... so, the mobile charger is always in the car. Also, bought the 14.50 adapter for the car cord.

Did your electrician really put a 60 amp breaker on a 14-50? :eek:

The "50" in the NEMA 14-50 nomenclature means 50 amp circuit. I suspect they used the typical 6/3 NM wire for that outlet, which is rated for only 55 amps. You should have a 50 amp breaker on that outlet.

I ran 4 gauge wire to my HPWC with a 60 amp breaker to handle the 0.8*60=48 amp continuous load and a 4 gauge wire with a 50 amp breaker to a 14-50 for future growth. I used a 4 gauge wire and left an extra foot of wire in the wall just in case i want to direct wire another HPWC there in the future.
 
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I have a Juice Box on my Pacifica and the gen 3 HPWC on my MY. Here's how they stack up:

HPWC advantages: The cord is much thinner (easier to manage), it looks nicer, plugs into the MY without an adapter, and charges at 48 amps vs 40.

Juice Box (2018 version) advantages: built like tank (steel box instead of glass), has a nice app that tells you how much energy it provided per session, lifetime energy, charge time, estimated range, etc., thicker cord doesn't get as warm when charging.

The MY tells me charging rate, but I do miss knowing how much energy it actually takes.
 
Your post suggested that it couldn’t be used in rain, that’s not entirely accurate. I wouldn’t use it in a hurricane, but it is hearty enough for rain. Even more so if it had some type of top enclosure to protect it.

What i said was it meant for mainly indoors use. You can read the manual. You are more than capable of using a hair dryer in the pool.
 
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After weighing all the pros/cons, I just installed the Gen 3 WC on the wall between the 1-car and 2-car space. The 18ft cable is long enough to reach any of the 3 spaces and can't argue about the coolness factor as I think it came out great =)
 
I remember reading somewhere the best thing to do is have 2 mobile connectors with 2 14-50's. one set for home and one set for on the go. Any opinions?

Not necessarily. In terms of speed, the Wall Connector is fastest for the 3 and the Y because it can take up to 48A on a 60A circuit. The Mobile Connectors I believe max out at 32A regardless of what they connect to.

So if you have a 14-50 outlet at home, you’re losing the gains of 40A charging on that because you’re topping off at 32A.

Also, 32A is a lot of power. You’re talking 7.68 kW per hour before a roughly 10% efficiency loss, so figure about 7 kW on the nose. If you’re driving a 250 watt mile efficiency, that means you’re charging up 28 miles per hour, figure a full charge in 12 hours if you were pulling in empty.

If I was in a household where I shared my car with someone, it might be better for the full 48A Wall Connector, I guess.

And regarding the “one for work” suggestion - the 14-50 is about the outlet, not the charger. You have to use what they have. It could be as simple as using the J1772 to Tesla adapter that is included with your car if the work charging is a J1772 connector.
 
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I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage.
That is extremely bad news!
He charged $385.
Wait...he charged you money to violate electric code? Most people can violate electric code on their own without paying a so-called "electrician" to do it.

That is just blatant and bad and obvious. You need to get that replaced with a 50A breaker ASAP.
 
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OP here...electrician coming Saturday morning to install Gen-3 Wall Connector; $400 plus $175 for permits plus $100 for the electrician to handle all the permitting (it’s worth it to me to have somebody else take care of that; my time is worth something too :cool:). Got a detailed quote with the full engineering work up documented; should be a simple install - 200 amp service and current breaker panel adequate for full 48 amp draw, just need 60 amp breaker, a few feet of #6 wire for hot and #8 wire for ground in a 3/4 inch conduit. Will update this thread afterwards.
 
OP here...electrician coming Saturday morning to install Gen-3 Wall Connector; $400 plus $175 for permits plus $100 for the electrician to handle all the permitting (it’s worth it to me to have somebody else take care of that; my time is worth something too :cool:). Got a detailed quote with the full engineering work up documented; should be a simple install - 200 amp service and current breaker panel adequate for full 48 amp draw, just need 60 amp breaker, a few feet of #6 wire for hot and #8 wire for ground in a 3/4 inch conduit. Will update this thread afterwards.
Install went fine, about 40 minutes from electrician arrival to departure, then I spent about five minutes getting the WC connected to my local WiFi. Getting full 48 amps of charging current. Very glad I got the 18’ cord despite one member here insisting that the 8’ cord was the One True Length :p. Guess Tesla has been successful around here; the electrician mentioned that he had about ten more of these to do today!
 
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OP here...electrician coming Saturday morning to install Gen-3 Wall Connector; $400 plus $175 for permits plus $100 for the electrician to handle all the permitting (it’s worth it to me to have somebody else take care of that; my time is worth something too :cool:). Got a detailed quote with the full engineering work up documented; should be a simple install - 200 amp service and current breaker panel adequate for full 48 amp draw, just need 60 amp breaker, a few feet of #6 wire for hot and #8 wire for ground in a 3/4 inch conduit. Will update this thread afterwards.
Wonder why he used #8 ground....could have used #10 instead (maybe saved a few $...:)):
Ground Wire Size Chart
 
That is extremely bad news!

Wait...he charged you money to violate electric code? Most people can violate electric code on their own without paying a so-called "electrician" to do it.

That is just blatant and bad and obvious. You need to get that replaced with a 50A breaker ASAP.

Nope. The outlet is irrelevant. It all depends on the wire he used. Anything 6 AWG or larger can use a 60 A breaker, if it's just supplying one outlet. (If the circuit supplies more than one outlet, then if you're using Romex you would need 4 AWG wire to meet code.)

The breaker protects the wire, not the outlet or the items attached to the outlet.
 
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Nope. The outlet is irrelevant. It all depends on the wire he used. Anything 6 AWG or larger can use a 60 A breaker, if it's just supplying one outlet. (If the circuit supplies more than one outlet, then if you're using Romex you would need 4 AWG wire to meet code.)

The breaker protects the wire, not the outlet or the items attached to the outlet.
Uh, no, sorry. That is false. You are generally right that the protection is mostly for the wire, but outlet rating to breaker rating is defined in code and not irrelevant.
The outlet is irrelevant.
I don't know why you think you can dismiss that when NEC 210.21(B)(1) addresses this relationship between outlet rating to breaker rating very specifically. 210.21(B)(1) is for a single outlet on a branch circuit. It says that the rating of the overcurrent protection device must be no higher than the rating of the receptacle. So if it is a named 50A outlet type, like a 14-50, you must not use a breaker that is higher than that. Period.

So can I now ask that you remove the disagree from my comment where I pointed out that a 14-50 outlet on a 60A breaker is a code violation?
 
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