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Charge port is on the left side of the vehicle. Right wall of the garage is an outside wall. House electrical panel is on the outside of that wall. The electrician will just have to go through that wall to have access to the wires coming out of the panel. I’m not going to pay to run wire any farther than necessary, especially when I can get the 18’ cable WC for the same price as the 8’ version, and as @Y_tho notes, the 18’ version is back in stock and I got it ordered.
I’m not quite sure where the 18’ cable hurt you but to each his/her ownWell too late now, but it really depends on whether or not your garage is finished for it to cost much more.
Personally, I would back in. You'll want to figure some way of suspending the cable over the car so that you don't need to drag it back and forth each time you come and go. A few people have done that. Don't know if you have 1 door or two, but the space between 2 doors is also a good place for the 8' cable.
Offers no benefit to current Tesla vehicles outside of the ability to load balance multiple chargers on the same circuit if you're charging multiple cars.
The benefit you missed for the gen-2 connector is the 24’ charging cable. That extra 6 feet was critical for my charging installation.
I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage. He charged $385. Ordered the corded Tesla 14-50 charging cord. The cord stays hooked up in the garage... so, the mobile charger is always in the car. Also, bought the 14.50 adapter for the car cord.
i don’t plan to use the wall charger in a pool, no. What’s your point wallace?
Your post suggested that it couldn’t be used in rain, that’s not entirely accurate. I wouldn’t use it in a hurricane, but it is hearty enough for rain. Even more so if it had some type of top enclosure to protect it.
I remember reading somewhere the best thing to do is have 2 mobile connectors with 2 14-50's. one set for home and one set for on the go. Any opinions?
That is extremely bad news!I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage.
Wait...he charged you money to violate electric code? Most people can violate electric code on their own without paying a so-called "electrician" to do it.He charged $385.
Install went fine, about 40 minutes from electrician arrival to departure, then I spent about five minutes getting the WC connected to my local WiFi. Getting full 48 amps of charging current. Very glad I got the 18’ cord despite one member here insisting that the 8’ cord was the One True Length . Guess Tesla has been successful around here; the electrician mentioned that he had about ten more of these to do today!OP here...electrician coming Saturday morning to install Gen-3 Wall Connector; $400 plus $175 for permits plus $100 for the electrician to handle all the permitting (it’s worth it to me to have somebody else take care of that; my time is worth something too ). Got a detailed quote with the full engineering work up documented; should be a simple install - 200 amp service and current breaker panel adequate for full 48 amp draw, just need 60 amp breaker, a few feet of #6 wire for hot and #8 wire for ground in a 3/4 inch conduit. Will update this thread afterwards.
Wonder why he used #8 ground....could have used #10 instead (maybe saved a few $...):OP here...electrician coming Saturday morning to install Gen-3 Wall Connector; $400 plus $175 for permits plus $100 for the electrician to handle all the permitting (it’s worth it to me to have somebody else take care of that; my time is worth something too ). Got a detailed quote with the full engineering work up documented; should be a simple install - 200 amp service and current breaker panel adequate for full 48 amp draw, just need 60 amp breaker, a few feet of #6 wire for hot and #8 wire for ground in a 3/4 inch conduit. Will update this thread afterwards.
That is extremely bad news!
Wait...he charged you money to violate electric code? Most people can violate electric code on their own without paying a so-called "electrician" to do it.
That is just blatant and bad and obvious. You need to get that replaced with a 50A breaker ASAP.
Uh, no, sorry. That is false. You are generally right that the protection is mostly for the wire, but outlet rating to breaker rating is defined in code and not irrelevant.Nope. The outlet is irrelevant. It all depends on the wire he used. Anything 6 AWG or larger can use a 60 A breaker, if it's just supplying one outlet. (If the circuit supplies more than one outlet, then if you're using Romex you would need 4 AWG wire to meet code.)
The breaker protects the wire, not the outlet or the items attached to the outlet.
I don't know why you think you can dismiss that when NEC 210.21(B)(1) addresses this relationship between outlet rating to breaker rating very specifically. 210.21(B)(1) is for a single outlet on a branch circuit. It says that the rating of the overcurrent protection device must be no higher than the rating of the receptacle. So if it is a named 50A outlet type, like a 14-50, you must not use a breaker that is higher than that. Period.The outlet is irrelevant.