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If not even for your own personal peace of mind, what about anyone or any shop taking on/off wheels even one time. Not opting in $7 for a set of 4 isn't worth the risk imo.
Just to play devils advocate. My buddy didn’t notice that there was a hub centric ring on the hub when he torqued down a wheel that already had a hub centric ring on it. It destroyed the threads on the lugs (galling) and we had to replace the hub. Major PITA!
I wish there was an explanation for why they’re necessary that made sense. They obviously don’t hold any weight since they’re often made of plastic. With the comical lug nuts I can’t see how the wheel could end up in the wrong position. That being said I do have them on my car. Paranoia? Haha.
 
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Did you need hub rings? Messaged konig about these but they never replied.


I have Konig Dekagrams. I did not use hubcentric rings, and I used the stock lug nuts (with a thin wall socket (an anti-scuff socket with the plastic sleeve removed), being careful not to scuff the wheel).

There were absolutely no problems with vibrations. So as far as I am concerned, it’s not a problem at all to not use hubcentric rings on these Konigs, as long as :

1) you are careful about evenly and gradually tightening the nuts
2) you do not use the nuts to initially snug the wheel onto the rotor hat.
3) You are the one who puts your wheels on.


It is a bit of an annoyance to have to hold the wheel in position while doing the initial tightening, but after it is basically snug, then it is just a process of carefully tightening in a repeated star pattern so you can be 100% sure it is centered.

I think it would work even if you weren’t really careful with all of the above - there is really no way for the wheel to not be centered, but out of an abundance of caution, and in case I am wrong and it does matter...I follow that procedure. Also you are supposed to tighten in a star pattern repeatedly anyway of course.

The stock lug nuts are a tight squeeze. But I trust them and it was not a problem to use them without scuffing the wheels - as long as you are careful.
 
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I have Konig Dekagrams. I did not use hubcentric rings, and I used the stock lug nuts (with a thin wall socket (an anti-scuff socket with the plastic sleeve removed), being careful not to scuff the wheel).

There were absolutely no problems with vibrations. So as far as I am concerned, it’s not a problem at all to not use hubcentric rings on these Konigs, as long as :

1) you are careful about evenly and gradually tightening the nuts
2) you do not use the nuts to initially snug the wheel onto the rotor hat.
3) You are the one who puts your wheels on.


It is a bit of an annoyance to have to hold the wheel in position while doing the initial tightening, but after it is basically snug, then it is just a process of carefully tightening in a repeated star pattern so you can be 100% sure it is centered.

I think it would work even if you weren’t really careful with all of the above - there is really no way for the wheel to not be centered, but out of an abundance of caution, and in case I am wrong and it does matter...I follow that procedure. Also you are supposed to tighten in a star pattern repeatedly anyway of course.

The stock lug nuts are a tight squeeze. But I trust them and it was not a problem to use them without scuffing the wheels - as long as you are careful.

I can agree with that if your steps are followed (and it will 100% always be YOU working on your wheels). In my case, I’ve already had lowering springs, reinstalls, brake caliper paint, and F/R sway bars on the car in the last two months (in more than one shop) where the $7 investment for hubcentric rings save both me and the installer time/money and effort.

Awesome choice on the Dekagrams! Link us to some pics!
 
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Just to play devils advocate. My buddy didn’t notice that there was a hub centric ring on the hub when he torqued down a wheel that already had a hub centric ring on it. It destroyed the threads on the lugs (galling) and we had to replace the hub. Major PITA!
I wish there was an explanation for why they’re necessary that made sense. They obviously don’t hold any weight since they’re often made of plastic. With the comical lug nuts I can’t see how the wheel could end up in the wrong position. That being said I do have them on my car. Paranoia? Haha.

They do make alignment easier and I do think it’s our (owner) responsibility to know and make any installer aware if our cars have the ‘M3P ring’ on the hub or not. Threads like these are so helpful so people can ask all the right questions towards making any wheel purchase.
 
Hi Everyone,

I just ordered Vossen HF2 in gloss gold for my M3D. I went with 20x9 rim with 235/35 R20 Michelin 4s all around. I do plan to lower the car next summer with MPP or unplugged performance coil overs with roughly 1” drop. Currently it will run on stock height. This is my daily driver so I am not planning to go too aggressive on the setup but more to do with clean cohesive look. Now here is my question -
The guys suggested +38 offset for the wheels but based on my online research of lowered M3 and reading things here I think it can handle +35 offset on Vossen HF2 without being to aggressive. I will appreciate any suggestion or comments?

Thanks,
MC
 
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Hi Everyone,

I just ordered Vossen HF2 in gloss gold for my M3D. I went with 20x9 rim with 235/35 R20 Michelin 4s all around. I do plan to lower the car next summer with MPP or unplugged performance coil overs with roughly 1” drop. Currently it will run on stock height. This is my daily driver so I am not planning to go too aggressive on the setup but more to do with clean cohesive look. Now here is my question -
The guys suggested +38 offset for the wheels but based on my online research of lowered M3 and reading things here I think it can handle +35 offset on Vossen HF2 without being to aggressive. I will appreciate any suggestion or comments?

Thanks,
MC

I wouldn’t even consider +35 aggressive with stock height...nevertheless lowered.
 
Please definitely use hubcentric rings! I went with Stancemagic 64.1ID -> 73.1OD hubcentric rings. I’m a ‘spirited driver’ and have had my wheels on/off for installs multiple times and the rings are 100% sturdy. No vibrations at high speeds. Again, please get hubcentric rings (they’re the least you can do for any wheels that can work safely on our cars).

Edit: Looks like the SMs are out of stock, but use any good-reviewed brand of hubcentric rings.


I only see 64.1ID to 72.6OD. does .50mm make a difference?
 
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Vorsteiner ff107 in highland bronze
 

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Our wheel sales are coming to a close very soon, but there's still some time left for anyone looking for incredible wheels at discounted prices while supplies last:

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Vossen CV10 wheels in Satin Black (MSRP: $2200 Sale Price: $1699 shipped in CONUS) 2 sets left:
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