Air Compressor Replacement + Air Line & Air Shocks inspection DIY

Thought I'd post this as it may be helpful for others. Especially if you can DIY and don't want to pay Tesla many £1000's to fix these air compressor/suspension-related issues.

I started to hear my air compressor turning on a lot more than it used to and it was getting a lot noisier than it used to be. At the same time, I started getting 'Air Compressor Disabled, Car Cannot Raise' messages, these increased as the temperature dropped to 0c and below.

The other issue I noticed was that the front left suspension was losing pressure and making the car sag on that front side. Clearly, this air shock or the lines to it were leaking and in turn making the compressor run a huge amount more than it was designed for.

To test the lines and suspension I got some leak detection spray and covered all the lines, connections, pumps and tank with it to see if anything was leaking. It wasn't. On to the shocks and the suspect shock created a nice foam party The other front one is fine as were both the back ones.

Good one:

Bad one:

Next thing to tackle was the Air Compressor itself. I would have loved to rebuild this but I can't find the parts, unfortunately. I found that this pump is used in the Audi Q5, Lamborghini Huracan, Porshe Panamera and probably others. It's made by Wabco with the motor by Lucas. I took it all apart and it was full of rust and most probably the press-fit piston ring shot. I have pics of this dismantled if anyone wants me to post them. I ordered a 3rd party part for £300. It has arrived and I fitted it today. It works well and is super quiet! The replacement air shock won't be with me for another 10 days so it will have to handle being used a little bit more than usual for a few days.

While changing the compressor I found another issue. One of the lines from the pump had been rubbed away by its surroundings. It's probably 0.1mm away from a pinhole! I'll order a new piece of line for this and move it away from the rubbing parts near it.

Compressor location (after I removed it) and 2nd pic circled where the black line had been rubbing against the electrical connector:

You need a few hours to troubleshoot, take things apart, and remove and reinstall the air compressor but it's an easy job. You do have to jack up the car (put it in jack mode) and remove the FR wheel so for anyone attempting this, make sure you use the right safety measures, Jack stands etc.

 

[buckets0fun]

Soap test does show air leakage at the airline connector port for left front strut. Although air seems to come from below the connector.

. Likely a toast airspring. 6/7 yr old airsprings on a car as heavy as the X, replace the one that’s blowing bubbles.
You did well with diag, now it’s time to replace and test again.

 

[TXExpress]

Thanks, just a bit curious about the system messages and if I should replace both struts or just the LF one as that one seems to be giving problems.

Also does anybody know where the valve can be found for refilling the nitrogen in the system? Would prefer not to use air as the relative humidity here is bound to give problems when it freezes.

 

[pakman00]

Seems there is a lot of knowledge and experience here so I'm hoping for some advice for my airsuspension problems.

Problem: Driver side front suspension lowers all the way when parked. System says there is a leak on the passenger side front.

Diagnosis so far:
- No leaks in airstrips left and right side using soap test.
- Getting some weird number from the service mode (left front is about 7-8 mm lower than right front), not sure what to make from the measured pressure.
- Soap test does show air leakage at the airline connector port for left front strut. Although air seems to come from below the connector.

Concerns a Model X -2017 model. See attached image for more information on car.

I've also got a 2017 model X with sagging on the front driver side air spring. If you end up replacing your air spring yourself, I'd be curious how that goes. I may need to do that on my car as well. Our car was in the service last month for a heater replacement and they suggested replacing both front shocks. Very slow leak somewhere where it levels out while driving but will sag when parked. I can see an alert in service mode only for airspring leak. I've only got mcu 1 so don't see all that diagnostics you are showing. I had the frunk out to replace the hepa filter and tried spraying soapy water at all the airhose connections and couldn't find any leaks. I suspect it must be a leak under the airbag in the air spring itself. So I plan on trying to replace that when I get some free time.

 

[TXExpress]

I've also got a 2017 model X with sagging on the front driver side air spring. If you end up replacing your air spring yourself, I'd be curious how that goes. I may need to do that on my car as well. Our car was in the service last month for a heater replacement and they suggested replacing both front shocks. Very slow leak somewhere where it levels out while driving but will sag when parked. I can see an alert in service mode only for airspring leak. I've only got mcu 1 so don't see all that diagnostics you are showing. I had the frunk out to replace the hepa filter and tried spraying soapy water at all the airhose connections and couldn't find any leaks. I suspect it must be a leak under the airbag in the air spring itself. So I plan on trying to replace that when I get some free time.

Hi Pakman,

have been looking at replacing it myself. However, as I don't have the tools, a good flat surface to work on and am not sure about how to refill the high pressure system I feel a bit out of my comfort zone here.

If you have all that you could try it. The below Youtube video gives a very good breakdown of what you need to do.

Tesla Airspring modules part numbers: 1027361-00-G
Left and right springs are the same apparently.

 

[buckets0fun]

It’s not a sealed system. It physically cannot be. Replace the struts, let the car air itself up. You’ll be fine.

 

[pakman00]

Thanks, just a bit curious about the system messages and if I should replace both struts or just the LF one as that one seems to be giving problems.

Also does anybody know where the valve can be found for refilling the nitrogen in the system? Would prefer not to use air as the relative humidity here is bound to give problems when it freezes.

I looked hard on my 2017 model X and couldn't find a refill valve. It appears that ours may not have it and the service guide suggests retrofitting one. See below from the online service manual which shows putting the valve near the right front air spring.

 

[brainhouston]

...
- Soap test does show air leakage at the airline connector port for left front strut. Although air seems to come from below the connector.
...

air line plugs into plastic cap with o-ring on it, thats probably where its leaking
there's also another o-ring on outer side of aluminum top plate that seals against plastic piece right below it (don't have pic of it)
this round plastic can just be pulled down to reveal the 2nd o-ring, nothing is holding it there without air. it seals itself with pressure/gravity when installed.

if u wanna be adventurous u can try taking snap ring out n see if u can replace o-ring, no harm if u already set to replace air spring.

bad pic but here u see that top cap hanging out on my salvaged X, and broken aluminum top plate still attached...

 

[TXExpress]

@pakman00 Thanks for the information on the service guide. Might be worthwhile to ask at the SC to see if they can do that as it might be useful to purge the system and refill with nitrogen.

@MobileClimate Are you referring to an official Tesla SC bulletin? Does sound like Tesla to go directly towards changing the whole strut, which would still be ok if that solved the problem.

However, most posts seem to indicate a trial and error method of replacing parts until the problem is solved, which can be a costly process. I'd prefer to save the money to buy a new HV battery when that time comes . It is a pity that Tesla SC doesn't have the capabilities to measure the pressure of the individual parts of the system to identify the leak, at least when I asked they more or less said they do not do that and more depend checking error codes in the system and relying on the service bulletins for moisture ingress and leakage in the compressor/valve.

 

[TXExpress]

air line plugs into plastic cap with o-ring on it, thats probably where its leaking
there's also another o-ring on outer side of aluminum top plate that seals against plastic piece right below it (don't have pic of it)
this round plastic can just be pulled down to reveal the 2nd o-ring, nothing is holding it there without air. it seals itself with pressure/gravity when installed.

if u wanna be adventurous u can try taking snap ring out n see if u can replace o-ring, no harm if u already set to replace air spring.

View attachment 1013319View attachment 1013320

bad pic but here u see that top cap hanging out on my salvaged X, and broken aluminum top plate still attached...
View attachment 1013321

Wow, thanks for the upload. This makes things more clear to me.

So the cap and the top plate are actually part of the strut, correct?

 

[kingpleb]

I can confirm from my own experience that most service centres are well aware of the retrofit of the filling valve and have onsite nitrogen for this.

But you have to request it and there is a small charge for it.
It's well worth doing though and I've added it to my list of things to ask for once a year. As an X owner the car ris in every free month's anyway for wear and due to mileage.

 

[TXExpress]

I can confirm from my own experience that most service centres are well aware of the retrofit of the filling valve and have onsite nitrogen for this.

But you have to request it and there is a small charge for it.
It's well worth doing though and I've added it to my list of things to ask for once a year. As an X owner the car ris in every free month's anyway for wear and due to mileage.

Do you have a link to the service bulletin for the addition of the valve? Will aks the SEC for a quote then.

Also what is the difference between the EAS (conti) and the TAS (Tesla rebrand?) airspring systems? How do you know which one you have? And are they interchangable?

 

[MobileClimate]

Eas is only model s older than 2015 I belive

 

[MobileClimate]

@pakman00 Thanks for the information on the service guide. Might be worthwhile to ask at the SC to see if they can do that as it might be useful to purge the system and refill with nitrogen.

@MobileClimate Are you referring to an official Tesla SC bulletin? Does sound like Tesla to go directly towards changing the whole strut, which would still be ok if that solved the problem.

However, most posts seem to indicate a trial and error method of replacing parts until the problem is solved, which can be a costly process. I'd prefer to save the money to buy a new HV battery when that time comes . It is a pity that Tesla SC doesn't have the capabilities to measure the pressure of the individual parts of the system to identify the leak, at least when I asked they more or less said they do not do that and more depend checking error codes in the system and relying on the service bulletins for moisture ingress and leakage in the compressor/valve.

Nitrogen and set of AC gauges is the best way to leak check ..service mode inflate springs run with nitrogen bottle set at 270 psi ( if you don’t it will error out and end the test ) put it in jack mode check the next day the pressure should be same + or - 2 psi

 

[hydro]

Nitrogen and set of AC gauges is the best way to leak check ..service mode inflate springs run with nitrogen bottle set at 270 psi ( if you don’t it will error out and end the test ) put it in jack mode check the next day the pressure should be same + or - 2 psi

If by any chance you would have a picture of that gauge kit, I would appreciate.

 

[MobileClimate]

This is for the tire service valve on the suspension air tank..it screws down on tbhe vaklve so it wont pop off

 

[MobileClimate]

This is for the tire service valve on the suspension air tank..it screws down on tbhe vaklve so it wont pop off

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[hydro]

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Perfect, thanks

 

[hydro]

Nitrogen and set of AC gauges is the best way to leak check ..service mode inflate springs run with nitrogen bottle set at 270 psi ( if you don’t it will error out and end the test ) put it in jack mode check the next day the pressure should be same + or - 2 psi

Hi again,

I am on 2023.44.30

In service mode, for some reason, I am not seeing the air suspension test anymore. Last year, it was there. Is it now in a toolbox?

Thanks once more for your help

 

[MobileClimate]

You can just leave the nitro bottle hooked up set at 270 and with all the doors closed go from very high to std height and watch the galley pressure in the service mode ..when the pressure is that high it won’t even turn on the compressor you can just use the nitro

 

[MobileClimate]

There is a lot of suspension articles now all kinds of spring issues ill try to send some snips here