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Air Suspension error - EAS_w007
- Thread starter Doanster1
- Start date
Does the rear slowly sag throughout the month or is it once/mo the rear is slammed and the front is jacked up “all of a sudden”? If the latter, then my bet is either a bad height/leveling sensor or, ultimately the compressor still.
Then def not a leak so I wouldn’t go chasing that.
So the car levels it self back to normal after how long of being in the weird state?
I don’t recall anyone here actually having a sensor go bad, but they are cheap compared to the compressor. I don’t want to steer you down a bunch of paths to waste your time or money.
When my compressor was bad, I never thought that the car would slowly lower the fronts to the point of being slammed (over the course of a couple days) and jack the rears beyond even Very High. Remember the compressor has pressure sensors to send data back to the SAS computer.
overnight. When I press the brakes, everything levels up right away. Then it can be about a month in between (so far). I'll try the sensors. Would you think to I should change both front and rear (the corners that fail at this point) or just the rear left to start. Thanks once more.
Cheers
Wow, that’s actually good news. Not catastrophic then. All depends on how much time you want to put into diagnosing. I’d start with just the rear, but since this only happens once/month, this route will drag things out.
I have time on my hands and like DIY so personally, before replacing, I’d swap the rear sensors left to right and see if the problem follows, ie right rear gets jacked up.
Thanks! Should I measure the fender heights at various ride heights to verify it’s not something else? Or, should I just go ahead and replace the compressor? (Used off eBay okay?)
Some more details I’ve noticed- after replacing the relay, the error code is never thrown anymore (with the message at the bottom of the dash) but the red leveling light comes on regularly. When the red dash light is on, there also isn’t a code in service mode. I’ve done a full factory reset, light still comes on. Even when the red light is on, the system still seems to level itself. When I try to change the ride height (with the light in), it will try and sometimes it moves (but I’m not sure if it’s actually at the right height) and sometimes won’t try.
Note that I have recently redone all of the front suspension and added rear adjustable camber arms. I did have an alignment done afterwards. The light came on a week or so before I did the suspension.
Diagnosis still the compressor or should I do some other diagnostic work before spending the money? And, used from eBay or new from Tesla?
Eek. All sorts of new tidbits.
I’m thinking it’s not the compressor just yet now. You got the error a week before suspension work most likely because of the flaky relay. Once you replaced it, one thing down. With the installation of the camber arms, depending on which brand, how they were installed, and whether the height sensor arm/bracket was tweaked in the process, all those could impact whether the SAS can raise or lower. The error code going away points to compressor being ok. Red icon only points to the car not knowing what to do. Folks have def seen issues due to camber arm installs and height sensor issues. Which arms did you use and did you install yourself?
Sorry about that. I used the Hardrace Rear Camber Kit and my buddy who’s a mechanic installed them.Eek. All sorts of new tidbits.
I’m thinking it’s not the compressor just yet now. You got the error a week before suspension work most likely because of the flaky relay. Once you replaced it, one thing down. With the installation of the camber arms, depending on which brand, how they were installed, and whether the height sensor arm/bracket was tweaked in the process, all those could impact whether the SAS can raise or lower. The error code going away points to compressor being ok. Red icon only points to the car not knowing what to do. Folks have def seen issues due to camber arm installs and height sensor issues. Which arms did you use and did you install yourself?
I’ve tried to put eyes on the sensors but haven’t seen the rear sensors yet. The front looked reaosnable, though I’m not actually sure what to look for.
Sometimes the compressor does run for awhile. If there’s a way to test it, I’m happy to do so. To your point of it going away, sometimes it won’t come on much, if at all, in a day. Other times it will be on most the day.
Really tough to say now. If it does run sometimes for most of the day, then I assume you also hear purging because the air has to go somewhere. When this happens, are there breaks at all because it’s supposed to therm trip for self preservation. If not then the internal temp sensor is fubar and the motor will seize.Sorry about that. I used the Hardrace Rear Camber Kit and my buddy who’s a mechanic installed them.
I’ve tried to put eyes on the sensors but haven’t seen the rear sensors yet. The front looked reaosnable, though I’m not actually sure what to look for.
Sometimes the compressor does run for awhile. If there’s a way to test it, I’m happy to do so. To your point of it going away, sometimes it won’t come on much, if at all, in a day. Other times it will be on most the day.
Sorry I can’t be more definitive at this point. Most roads lead back to the compressor and only a few folks have had actual leaks or bad height sensors. Your intermittent situation is what’s making it tougher to pinpoint.
Thanks. To be certain we’re on the same page, I think I should define “it” and what’s running. The air suspension will often run (as in work correctly) without the light on. Some days the light rarely comes on. When the light’s on, sometimes the suspension works fine and sometimes it doesn’t. The air compressor itself never runs all day. It will sometimes run for a longer period of time than expected but it does seem to “give up” at some point (therm trip?). (We may have already been on the same page but I thought it was worth clarifying, just in case.)
I’m not sure what the purge sounds like but it does seem to be working fine as the car will lower itself. I can play with it to see if I can trip the light only by raising the car or by lowering the car, maybe this will give us info. My guess is that it’s not one or the other but I’ll play with it.
Is it worth setting it at the various heights and measuring each wheel well’s fender to ground distance?
If any ideas or tests come to mine, let me know and I’ll try them.
The light is on much more consistently now (it's colder). I find something (the compressor?) runs a lot and for a long period of time. The purge does seem to work fine too. I'm not sure what to do next. Thoughts?
Ugh. Ok. Any way I can test it to confirm for good?Unfortunately this is a tell tale sign the compressor is going. It will eventually seize and the red icon won’t go away.
Used okay to replace or should I buy a new one?
The light wasn’t on so I cycled through all of the settings. It lowers and then raises back up but best I can tell it comes back to right about the same spot no matter what setting I put it on.Unfortunately this is a tell tale sign the compressor is going. It will eventually seize and the red icon won’t go away.
Strange/things keep getting weirder. Are you saying it won’t stay in low or very high? That rules out the leveling sensors because unless one or two corners are off, having all four die at the same time is highly unlikely.
To answer your previous question, I’d stick to OEM Tesla. I went through multiple reman units from compatible Audi/Jeep, but they died within a few weeks. Finally caved and had Tesla replace and it’s been fine for a couple years so far (knock on wood!).
In your case, since it’s still intermittent and resets in general without major issues, it’s upon you whether to replace now or go until it seizes and the red icon won’t go away. When mine seized, the rear was jacked to very high and the fronts were slammed, making driving interesting along with a very weird stance.
(Sorry if this is all repeat. There have been multiple questions/posts from more than one person so am losing track of who asked what/who knows the history.)
Hi all, I need some help !
2 weeks ago, I changed the F82 suspension fuse ( 40 amps ) and while reconnecting everything, I did not properly torque the positive nut (the one close to the firewall ) and when I reconnected the fireman's loop and negative terminal, the car would not power up. I was working on the car at a friends heated garage and I needed to clear up the place for him to work on his car so after boosting the car I went home and the next morning I had to boost the car once more. I had to go the service center anyways so I had them change the battery and they told me about the nut I did not torque properly. In a way, I got lucky as the battery they replaced will be useful for me for my pellet stove and they broke the windshield during the procedure so we got a new windshield which is nice as the old one had seen a lot of pebbles and was getting tough on the eyes.
So 2 days ago, the F82 fuse blew again (cold snap) and now during cold snaps, my suspension freezes (red light in the dash). Must be a lot of humidity in my air suspension system.
So this time, to change the fuse, I did not touch any more that I needed to (contrary to the way I attacked the project two weeks ago) in order to have things go smooth this time. Somehow, even though the only things I removed (besides the necessary fuse cables to reach that bottom row F82, was the fireman's loop and the negative terminal.
For some reason, when I reconnected everything, the car would not power up ! I had to boost it up. When boosted, until it goes to sleep while parked, all is fine, no issues whatsoever. But as soon as it goes to sleep mode, I need to boost it again. So today, I rechecked everything and I see nothing that could cause that issue. When I reconnect the 12v, there is the usual little sparks. Just to be sure, before reconnecting, I checked the battery and it is at 12.8 v.
What could cause that issue?
All help will be very appreciated as the service center is far away and expensive.
I'll send a picture in a following post.
Thanks in advance
Cheers
ps sorry for the long post, I just wanted to have all details laid out so as to answer the basics
2 weeks ago, I changed the F82 suspension fuse ( 40 amps ) and while reconnecting everything, I did not properly torque the positive nut (the one close to the firewall ) and when I reconnected the fireman's loop and negative terminal, the car would not power up. I was working on the car at a friends heated garage and I needed to clear up the place for him to work on his car so after boosting the car I went home and the next morning I had to boost the car once more. I had to go the service center anyways so I had them change the battery and they told me about the nut I did not torque properly. In a way, I got lucky as the battery they replaced will be useful for me for my pellet stove and they broke the windshield during the procedure so we got a new windshield which is nice as the old one had seen a lot of pebbles and was getting tough on the eyes.
So 2 days ago, the F82 fuse blew again (cold snap) and now during cold snaps, my suspension freezes (red light in the dash). Must be a lot of humidity in my air suspension system.
So this time, to change the fuse, I did not touch any more that I needed to (contrary to the way I attacked the project two weeks ago) in order to have things go smooth this time. Somehow, even though the only things I removed (besides the necessary fuse cables to reach that bottom row F82, was the fireman's loop and the negative terminal.
For some reason, when I reconnected everything, the car would not power up ! I had to boost it up. When boosted, until it goes to sleep while parked, all is fine, no issues whatsoever. But as soon as it goes to sleep mode, I need to boost it again. So today, I rechecked everything and I see nothing that could cause that issue. When I reconnect the 12v, there is the usual little sparks. Just to be sure, before reconnecting, I checked the battery and it is at 12.8 v.
What could cause that issue?
All help will be very appreciated as the service center is far away and expensive.
I'll send a picture in a following post.
Thanks in advance
Cheers
ps sorry for the long post, I just wanted to have all details laid out so as to answer the basics
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