Air Suspension error - EAS_w007

[Paul Dark]

Btw, when I swapped relays (radiator fans relay for air suspension relay), my suspension started working, but I noticed that I don't hear my "radiator" fans running anymore. No error message or anything. One it got warm I actually got "air conditioning and charging rate will be reduced" at supercharger, figured I have a cooling issue. Then it was confirmed when my A/C became muggy...

Went to Tesla and picked up the relays (got some extras) I needed for a very reasonable price of $10/piece and yes, radiator fan (ex air suspension) relay ended up being dead, and no you will not have any error messages if your fan really is dead. My theory is when pump froze and car tried to start it - amount of current burned the contactor (relay) down, luckally not the big fuse.

 

[Paul Dark]

If you’re talking about location and description, here’s one.

Thanks for a diagram, I did find it online later, then figured it was here in one of the first messages on this thread

 

[Paul Dark]

I seem to have this issue with my 2016 Model X.

I'm from Finland, and it's frigging cold here.

About a month ago, my car was at service center for a different issue. When driving home from there, I got the "air compression disabled" message. I still had about one hour drive to home, but I drove all the way to home. I stopped a few times to check that car looks OK. Apparently my suspension is holding up the pressure pretty well even without compressor, driving height looked normal even after one hour of driving.

First I thought they have done something wrong in the service center. But since it's so long drive there I figured I'll check it myself first. And yeah I found out that the 40A fuse was blown. I didn't have suitable fuse in stock, but I replaced it with different kind that I fitted with adapter wires. I didn't have 40A fuse so I used 50A... Not recommended but I thought I give it a try.

View attachment 898792

Anyway, with this fuse, compressor started right away, issue solved. I ordered three fuses of the correct type, and when they arrived I replaced my wire hack with a correct fuse.

But now a month later the fuse blew again! I replaced it with another 40A fuse because I now had a spare. But this fuse blew instantly. Then I took the car to warm garage for a few hours, and this time replaced with my 50A wire fuse and compressor worked again. I'm not sure if it was the 40A vs 50A or the warm garage that fixed it.

My theory is this, there is some water in the system. When car was inside the warm service center, and then I drove it outside to freezing temperatures, water froze in the compressor.

Also the second time it was very cold outside (-16C = 3F) after few days of warmer weather..

When it gets warmer I'll inspect it further. In the meanwhile I'll just buy more fuses. It is very quick to change in MX, even on a side of a road..

If you have cold weather problems next time and fuse is good - check the air suspension relay as, they burn out too make sure there are no leaks and try to get dry air in the system (you can drain the air tank when air is dry and refill it (few times)

 

[Paul Dark]

Btw, when I swapped relays (radiator fans relay for air suspension relay), my suspension started working, but I noticed that I don't hear my "radiator" fans running anymore. No error message or anything. One it got warm I actually got "air conditioning and charging rate will be reduced" at supercharger, figured I have a cooling issue. Then it was confirmed when my A/C became muggy...

Went to Tesla and picked up the relays (got some extras) I needed for a very reasonable price of $10/piece and yes, radiator fan (ex air suspension) relay ended up being dead, and no you will not have any error messages if your fan really is dead. My theory is when pump froze and car tried to start it - amount of current burned the contactor (relay) down, luckally not the big fuse.

And you can buy fuses from Tesla, I found out that relays and fuses are fairly cheap and they use pretty good quality ones at the dealer.

 

[Berch1]

Also, does anyone have a RELAY diagram?
There are fuse diagrams, but they ommit relays for some reason

 

[Berch1]

I don’t quite understand how to get at the 40amp fuse. I have March 2015 p85d, located lettered wires under air filter. I read the cover slides after loosening the wires, I’m already searching for the first stud that fell after undoing bolt.

 

[Doanster1]

I don’t quite understand how to get at the 40amp fuse. I have March 2015 p85d, located lettered wires under air filter. I read the cover slides after loosening the wires, I’m already searching for the first stud that fell after undoing bolt.

Refer to posts #9 and 11 again. You’ve already lost one bolt, but don’t worry, it didn’t fall into the abyss, just the tray below so use a magnetized retrieval tool to get it. Now just loosen the other power wires just enough so that you can bend them upward. The sliding trap door as I call it is held in place by plastic compression tabs. Just push down and the cover slides off, revealing the 40A midi fuse.
Guidepost/tab is highlighted by the red circle. One on each side. Press down and the cover will slide off to the right.

 

[Berch1]

Thanks, photo of under trap door. I had no power at k-11, installed new 40amp and now I have power. New compressor and solenoid still not working, red light on dash. The fuse did not pop though, so that’s something

 

[Doanster1]

Thanks, photo of under trap door. I had no power at k-11, installed new 40amp and now I have power. New compressor and solenoid still not working, red light on dash. The fuse did not pop though, so that’s something

Did you disconnect 12v and reconnect to power cycle? Did you check or replace the relay?

 

[Berch1]

Thanks, photo of under trap door. I had no power at k-11, installed new 40amp and now I have power. New compressor and solenoid still not working, red light on dash. The fuse did not pop though, so that’s something

 

[Berch1]

All power was disco for the install relay clicks when I put he probe to it. I should disconnect power again, tried the wheel config but didn’t help

 

[Doanster1]

All power was disco for the install relay clicks when I put he probe to it. I should disconnect power again, tried the wheel config but didn’t help

Go for a drive if possible…

 

[Berch1]

Happy Father’s Day. Disconnected battery and loop, no luck. Drove it, same. Swapped relay confirmed both relays work. Put the probe to the old comp on the bench, it ran for a second and tripped the probe. Did the same to my eBay replacement and the same thing happened. Looks like it was bad out of the box, looked suspicious after closer look. It did not blow the fuse though. The compressor did not run at all via the car and wire harness which is odd to me. Maybe the power cycle didn’t clear the code enough? Another thread wrote about once the suspension is severely low or high, the adjusters have to be rotated 180 degrees. Maybe I try another compressor.

 

[P85MD]

I’ve been getting the red dash light intermittently (and the eas_w007 code even more sporadically) for awhile but it’s been pretty consistently on, though still not always, for the last 24-48 hours. (Fwiw, when I checked the air pressure in the tank at medium height it was about 145 psi.)

I checked F36, which was fine, and checked K11, which seems to have failed.

When I swapped K11 with K15, a bunch of other systems freaked out but the air compressor ran again and adjusted the height. However, when I swapped them back, the other systems all worked again but this time the air compressor still tried to run but did not adjust the height. The red air suspension light did come back on but not before the air compressor tried to do its job.

Is this normal? Should replacing K11 fix this issue or does this point to something else also being wrong?

 

[Doanster1]

Yes, replace it. Relays can be intermittent (sticky) vs completely dead. They are cheap and readily available.
That’s the first step and hopefully resolved everything. There may be something lurking after, but if the relay is flaky, all bets are off at finding any other issues.

 

[P85MD]

I replaced the relay and nothing has changed. The compressor will usually run for a little bit and sometimes the system works and sometimes the red dash light comes on. It seems that even when the dash light is on, if the warning/code isn’t trigged, the car will still level itself.

Does this argue for a leak? A failing compressor? Any tips on what to look into next would be helpful.

 

[Doanster1]

I replaced the relay and nothing has changed. The compressor will usually run for a little bit and sometimes the system works and sometimes the red dash light comes on. It seems that even when the dash light is on, if the warning/code isn’t trigged, the car will still level itself.

Does this argue for a leak? A failing compressor? Any tips on what to look into next would be helpful.

At this point, unless you notice one or more corners dropping, the compressor is most likely the culprit.

 

[hydro]

At this point, unless you notice one or more corners dropping, the compressor is most likely the culprit.

Hi Doanster1

Hope I find you well.

If you recall, you helped me fix my compressor issue back in the early summer. Thanks once more.

Well, I now have exactly what you just pointed to : my rear left drops to the minimum and the front right is at maximum height. How would you go about to check where the leak is (I looked at the rear shock tower but I cannot figure out where to spray to see bubbles as I do not appear to have access to the top part of the shock tower). Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers

 

[Doanster1]

Hi Doanster1

Hope I find you well.

If you recall, you helped me fix my compressor issue back in the early summer. Thanks once more.

Well, I now have exactly what you just pointed to : my rear left drops to the minimum and the front right is at maximum height. How would you go about to check where the leak is (I looked at the rear shock tower but I cannot figure out where to spray to see bubbles as I do not appear to have access to the top part of the shock tower). Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers

Sorry to hear that. You would prob have to remove the fender liner in order to see the top of the strut where the air line attaches.
Start with the valve block naturally since that’s easily accessible. Then make sure the leveling sensor themselves aren’t damaged somehow.

Strange that the front right goes to Very High. My issue always came in pairs. Fronts were slammed while both rears were jacked. Then again, I didn’t have a leak, just a bum compressor. Would be cool to see a flow diagram of the SAS leveling algorithm. From all the stories here of the diff failure modes, it seems overly complicated.
Good luck. I know what a PITA suspension errors can be. When they happen, makes you wish for std coils.

 

[hydro]

Sorry to hear that. You would prob have to remove the fender liner in order to see the top of the strut where the air line attaches.
Start with the valve block naturally since that’s easily accessible. Then make sure the leveling sensor themselves aren’t damaged somehow.

Strange that the front right goes to Very High. My issue always came in pairs. Fronts were slammed while both rears were jacked. Then again, I didn’t have a leak, just a bum compressor. Would be cool to see a flow diagram of the SAS leveling algorithm. From all the stories here of the diff failure mode

Sorry to hear that. You would prob have to remove the fender liner in order to see the top of the strut where the air line attaches.
Start with the valve block naturally since that’s easily accessible. Then make sure the leveling sensor themselves aren’t damaged somehow.

Strange that the front right goes to Very High. My issue always came in pairs. Fronts were slammed while both rears were jacked. Then again, I didn’t have a leak, just a bum compressor. Would be cool to see a flow diagram of the SAS leveling algorithm. From all the stories here of the diff failure modes, it seems overly complicated.
Good luck. I know what a PITA suspension errors can be. When they happen, makes you wish for std coils.

ok, thanks, sorry for the delay in answering, had other things on the plate.

So I'll remove the fender. liner Problem is I plan on removing it on a lift with jack mode on. Being on jack mode, I do not think I can play with the levels from very high to high as to be able to detect a leak. Any suggestions?

thanks once more for your very valuable insight.